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Sprintex Supercharger Install

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  #521  
Old 02-07-2014, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Hung
Were you able to locate a low mileage Evo X fuel pump on the Mitsubishi Evolution X Forum? The going price is about $60. Installation isn't bad just as long as you remember to properly seat the o-ring onto the fuel pump outlet. I had to pull the Evo X fuel pump out twice because the o-ring was being pushed too far into the fuel pump assembly outlet. Fuel was not being push out and there was no fuel pressure. Testing the Evo X fuel pump was no fun with a ¼ of a bucket of fuel and the fuel pump with assembly connected to AC/DC 12 volts 1 amp inverter.

My car ran fine without the Evo X pump using the Church Automotive map with my DIY intake and T1R exhaust pipe. The Evo X pump is a precaution in preparation for the gutted inlet and a dyno tune. I am running lean up top at high RPM.

Installing the AEM UEGO analog gauge will be fun as well. I will need to remove the factory radio to get to the 24 pin connector to tap into the pin 1 for the dash light brightness controller. It would be cool for the AEM analog gauge to dim along with the dash and the radio.
Haven't had time to look yet. Been busy with work. You are running lean at top with the evo pump?
 
  #522  
Old 02-07-2014, 01:38 PM
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I am running a bit lean up top for a supercharger engine with the stock fuel pump.
 
  #523  
Old 02-07-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Hung
I am running a bit lean up top for a supercharger engine with the stock fuel pump.
Add some fuel to the maps. Or increase the pulse width if you can.

The Fit fuel pump has satisfied plenty of mild turbo builds making more power.
 
  #524  
Old 02-08-2014, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven Hung
I am running a bit lean up top for a supercharger engine with the stock fuel pump.
At what rpm does it start to run lean?
 
  #525  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:18 PM
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I am not sure which RPM. According to my dyno graph air fuel started to lean out at around 66 mph.

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  #526  
Old 02-08-2014, 07:53 PM
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13:1 is still acceptable for a minor supercharged setup

EDIT but 12.0-12.3 would be a better goal, with a touch more timing as needed
 

Last edited by 13fit; 02-08-2014 at 07:55 PM.
  #527  
Old 02-08-2014, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Hung
I am not sure which RPM. According to my dyno graph air fuel started to lean out at around 66 mph.

If you did this in 3rd gear, then it would be roughly 5500 RPM, because most gears run roughly 2500-2700 RPM at a gear# times 10 speed. By that, 1st gear @10 mph. 2nd @20 mph, 3rd @ 30, etc. will all be around 2500 - 2700. So, if you were around 60mph, it would be ~5500RPM or so for 3rd.

Which is close to where vtec supposedly kicks in (allowing more air into the chamber).

Hum...
 
  #528  
Old 02-08-2014, 09:10 PM
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It could very well be at around 5000 rpm. The car was dyno using third gear several weeks ago with a stock setup. Since then I have added a T1R exhaust pipe and my short ram intake. I am almost done with the AEM UEGO wideband O2 kit installation. The only thing left is to connect to the instrument lighting circuit supply voltage. I did test the wideband setup some what to confirm that it is working. At idle the car hovers around 13.5 AFR. I really want to see the AFR and the effect the bolt on has on the AFR.
 
  #529  
Old 02-08-2014, 11:57 PM
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I dont understand why the dyno uses speed instead of rpms? Using rpms would be a lot easier in tuning even though with a little math the rpm should not be that hard to figure out with speed. When I dynoed my Fit they attached a lead to the number 1 plug and I never had a misfire from that.
 
  #530  
Old 02-09-2014, 02:31 PM
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I spent some more play time with my car today after completing the AEM UEGO wideband O2 installation and installing an O2 defouler to fix the P0429 DTC. There were several opportunity to open up the car while keeping an eye on the A/F gauge. At wide open throttle it stay around 12.5 A/F through out the RPM range. Something unexpected happen when I got aggressive on the throttle to red line. Starting at around 5000 rpm I believe I heard the relieve valve, pssshhhhhh several times. First time I heard it I thought it was a exhaust leak but it an unmistakable noise of the relief valve. The pssshhhh sound is similar to my Greddy BOV in the MR2 Turbo but not as loud or aggressive. Well I hope it is the relief valve not an exhaust leak.

I Could not think of a good place to mount the AEM analog gauge so here it goes.
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  #531  
Old 02-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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That might be your defouler leaking around the threads. Is it the socket extension type? Our recirc valve does not go "whoosh". You would lose boost and kick a CEL if it did. It is open under vacuum and closes under boost, opposite of a turbo. The vacuum diaphragm sees a harder vacuum and then closes.
 

Last edited by SprintexUSA; 02-09-2014 at 03:16 PM.
  #532  
Old 02-09-2014, 08:11 PM
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I brought one of these from EBay because it was cheaper than bigDaddiesgarage. Let me see if I could tightened it a bit more before getting the more expensive one.




 
  #533  
Old 02-10-2014, 07:01 AM
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^ That looks about like the same o2 spacer I am using. I just used the 90 degree section and I used the bung as a backup nut so I could lock the sensor at the appropriate position. I also used high temp, sensor safe anti seize.
 
  #534  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:04 PM
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You shouldn't be out of fuel pump at ~140whp on a DynoJet
 
  #535  
Old 02-10-2014, 07:14 PM
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Just wanted to add a few pics here. We don't have much going on under the hood. I added some heat shielding just to see what would happen, but it's too cold to tell any real difference.

Adding some heat shielding in the right places is like playing good defense. Accessible metal bottoms and sides are good places to start. I did not cover the top because the fins need to breathe.

Heat rises, but it also radiates. The shielding on the sides of the unit help protect against radiant heat. I'll add some on the bottom of the manifold when it warms up. Heat can still transfer through the head and into the manifold and the blower unit. You can't completely stop it, BUT you can play good defense.






 
  #536  
Old 02-12-2014, 10:50 AM
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99.9% of the footage I shot is somewhat boring. Highway cruising is rather anti-climactic. Passing people takes just a tap of the gas and rarely a downshift at normal highway speeds. I like how well mannered it really is.
 
  #537  
Old 02-14-2014, 05:33 PM
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We gutted the restrictor today in the US shop car. Interesting results. No more boost, but cooler operating temps from the blower. 8.5psi on the gauge. It feels like it breathes more happily. What little ping was there is also gone, which makes sense with breathing more easily. The rest of the vehicle is still stock, but we had to at least try this. We blame spring fever . The driveability seems a lot better. It smacks me around more like it should.
 
  #538  
Old 02-14-2014, 07:07 PM
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^ This is interesting. Looks like you beat Steven to it. So why is it in there in the first place if it runs so good without it? Have you changed the tune?
 
  #539  
Old 02-14-2014, 07:16 PM
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It's a world-wide kit and Asian OE exhausts are more restrictive. They cut out the restrictor and retune over there, too. No word on their fuel pumps, though. One would think that could be a consistent problem.

We're a bit like an arctic outpost over here---we're left to our own devices but follow orders and get supplies accordingly.
 
  #540  
Old 02-14-2014, 07:52 PM
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I just gutted mine today. It is too late to go for a test drive but tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I am going to talk to the guys at Proven Power for a dyno tune next week.

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Last edited by Steven Hung; 02-14-2014 at 07:55 PM.


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