Are you getting it?

 

I thought about it but . . . . . Things I could buy or almost buy for $599

· Used Evo X fuel pump, new AEM UEGO Gauge 30-5130 and weld in O2 bung – coming soon
· Team M Factory Final Drive Gear
· Almost buy Clutch Master FX100 stage I clutch kit
· Almost Hondata FlashPro – Think positive … Fuzzyfunk …
· Crank scraper & lot of coins left – still looking for one because Ishihara Johnson doesn’t make one
· T1R header pipe and ceramic coating
· AEM FIC 6 plus RDX 410 cc injectors with TC Scion plugs - Nahhhh

 

Okay so if I do lose my mind and decide to spend the $600 on the harness and use the AEM F/IC, obviously I wouldnt need the fifth injector we are currently running, but would we also do away with the other map sensors? What about the sensors on the blower unit? How would those tap into the AEM unit? I am considering doing the AEM unit so that I could run a smaller pulley and more boost on upgraded injectors, but I am worried I may be biting off more than I can chew.

 

You would not need the supplementary injector after upgrading the stock injectors and a higher flowing fuel pump. Both MAP sensors would not be needed. FIC 6 has a built in MAP sensor that measure absolute manifold pressure. The IAT sensor mounted on the intake manifold is a different story that needs to be researched.

The IAT sensor temperature reading is use by the SMT8L in retarding ignition in the ignition map as the temperature in the intake manifold raises. Take a look at the “F2 – Ignition map” and it side maps. It is also use to modify the Analog #1 out for MAF voltage to the ECM/PCM. See “F3 – Analog #1 map and it side maps.

• Retard ignition
• Modifier for MAF signal to influence fuel control

On my cursory glance at the AEM FIC 6 I have not come across this type of correction adjustment using temperature reading from an IAT sensor mounted on the intake manifold. You will have to do more research on the AEM FIC 6. It is slick to see this feature in the SMT8L.

 

you would not necessarily need a better flowing fuel pump.

Hell, in the old days, a stock 99-00 civic SI fuel pump supported almost 400whp reliably on 93 octane. If that guy who posted that particular turbo build had decided to go with E85, he DEFINITELY would have needed a big pump.



What we fit owners need is a conversion kit, that includes a fuel pressure regulator, walbro 190 or 255 or 255HP, and the return line kit, perhaps a kit based around the K series return conversions

 

I really like the sounds of that. If in fact we would need a pump with more flow, it would be nice to be able to buy a kit that would set it up with a return line and whatnot.


Steven- you answered my question perfectly. At this point it is definitely more than I can chew. I probably won't try being a pioneer on that venture. Still something I would like to do in the future once there is more information about it though.

 

Take my word for it.. a bigger fuel pump helps a ton on tuning boosted fits. With a 1:1 regulator intended for boost it's even better.

Converting to a return system is actually fairly easy if you have already gained the confidence to install a supercharger.. Bypass stock regulator, then tee an adjustable regulator (aeromotive/magnafuel/fuel lab) in between the pump and rail.

Tap the stock hanger for a -6AN return fitting, plumb a line between the regulator and the cage.

Then test that sucker for leaks a few times before actually trying to start.

 

Oh, I just posted that because it was an example of someone owning a honda that didnt want to spend a leasly 80 bucks for peace of mind lol


My all motor D15 that put down 150whp was running on a 255 walbro lol. But I was also using stock 240cc injectors at around 50psi. They spray and atomize damn good at that pressure! I got the 255 because I was initally going to boost the D15 and see when all hell breaks loose, but chose to make it a more interestign 95% honda parts all motor, no spray.

 

I took a day off from work today to install my T1R exhaust pipe and to drop off the secondary CAT to have an O2 bung welded. My excuse to my boss is Chinese New Year. The AEM UEGO analog wideband I ordered from Amazon should be here by middle of next week. So will a used Evo X fuel pump from a 2011 Evo X GSR. Used low mileage Evo X pumps are cheap around $60. I will install both the Evo X fuel pump and the wideband before gutting the inlet restrictor. Both the primary CAT and the secondary CAT is out. Almost time to head out to the shop and get lunch.

 

Steven, where did you source the used Evo pump from?

 

I scanned the Mitsubishi Evolution X Forum for sale section.

 

Plenty of space without the primary CAT. 45 minutes and $60 lighter at Proven Power the stainless steel O2 bung is welded on the drive side of the secondary CAT for a wideband O2. The secondary CAT pipe is double layer which I have never seen before. Guys at the shop suggested gutting the secondary CAT as a cheap mod to free more exhaust flow. You could definitely smell the difference without the primary CAT during initial startup to look for exhaust leaks. I have to wait for the exhaust to cool before bolting the passenger side half shaft heat shield. Test drive is tomorrow morning.

 

I finally have all the bugs worked out on our shop car. She's running happily with a new map and colder BKR7e11 spark plugs @ .036. I also added a couple of strips of heat shield on the front and the back of the blower. I could go nutty with the stuff, but just wanted to see if the unit ran any cooler. It does, but not by much.

My new map has a bit more timing from 5500rpm+, even on 91 octane. Typically with piggyback computers, you cannot add spark timing. However, you can do that with the SMT8L. The stock airbox and stock exhaust are still on and will likely stay. I ended up adding fuel in the midrange and removing timing there. At lower rpms with boost, it didn't like having timing added. Up top it took 2 more degrees than what it had previously, for now 6 total. There's a wildcat howl when VTEC kicks in.

Is everyone else running happily now? I think we've all worked through our bugs. The map I made will likely be useless to the rest of you since the car still remains stock.

 

$599 for 2 hours of prep and soldering. I would DIY. I didn't find it particularily challenging to solder in the AEM harness.

 

The car likes the ceramic coated T1R exhaust pipe and the exhaust note got more aggressive. Not loud at all. On startup she is stinky with just the secondary CAT. Yeah I took her out briefly tonight but could not push her because of poor visibility from the drizzling rain. I believe I pickup a few ponies. She feels like a different car. The whine from my short ram intake is not as pronounced as before and it linger on a little longer. There used to be a very small amount of RPM hunting. It seems to be gone. More play time is needed.

DTC P0420 warning pop up on UltraGauge this morning. Gee I wonder why??? I will not push her until I get the AEM UEGO gauge kit install. Do not need to be blind sided.

 

I would definitely be interested in acquiring this map for the time being. I am still stock, and will continue to be stock until I finish getting the Fit registered where it does not have to complete emissions testing. What would be the advantages of going from the map it shipped with to this new map?

 

I was thinking, if I did go the route of using the AEM unit to tune the 4 traditional injectors rather than splitting my fuel supply to run a 5th injector maybe it wouldn't be so quick to run out of pump. It would have the full load of fuel going to the rail instead of a split portion.

I know I probably sound like a wimp not wanting to convert to a return style fuel system, but I just feel like that would be a little more work than I think I want to tackle myself. (I know I did install the supercharger myself, but to be honest it really wasn't too bad).

I have contacted AEM to see what the difference would be in switching to the F/IC-6 unit. I asked them about the IAT sensor which is currently used to retard timing. I know the AEM unit uses engine load and RPM to retard timing. I'm sure that is an acceptable way of doing it since there are many people running their piggyback. We will see what they have to say about it.

I would love to run the AEM unit with some RDX injectors. It has to be at least slightly more efficient to tune off of the traditional 4 injectors than to tune off of one that is much further away in the intake pipe.

 

How many injectors are being fed is not the issue. It's the total volume of fuel required and a fuel pressure regulator not intended for a boosted application. Running four 410s doesn't change that.

 

I'm not saying that it's an issue of feeding more injectors. I'm saying half of the volume coming from the pump is going to 4 injectors that you cannot change the flow on and half to one injector that you can adjust but is further away from the combustion chamber. If you could send 100% of the volume to 4 tunable injectors and not "waste" any by splitting it up I would think that could make a difference.

At the same time, I may be utterly wrong. It just made sense in my head but may not apply correctly in the real world.

I wasn't in any way saying that RDX injectors would solve any issue, but rather commenting that in the future RDX injectors are what I would like to run.

Is there any way to use the factory in tank regulator or an adjustable in tank regulator as to avoid making it a return style system?

 

I just read about the theory behind a 1:1 fpr and I definitely better understand what it is supposed to do, and it does sound like it would definitely be valuable to a setup like what we have.