Here are my dyno results during my tuning session at Church Automotive. They use dynapack. I couldn't save my scan for some reason, so I just took pictures instead :-P

From my very limited knowledge of reading these graphs, it seems I am making more torque than hp.

When its hot, looks like I get about 150 lbs/ft of torque and about 137 Hp at around 6k rpm.
If its cold, I can get up to 164 lbs/ft and about 157 hp.

Please correct me if I am wrong on my readings. Also help me interpret the rest

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Crank or to the wheels? Pretty cool all the same!

 

Gary, DSM, Lyon, Rick, everyone - any recommendations on a fuel pump that I should use? Goobers mentioned the Walbro 255. That one safe to use?

According to Church Auto I need a bigger fuel pump because it is not keeping up with the boost and I will go lean if I go past 6K rpm, but told to keep it under 5500 to be on the safe side. I'm thinking that Rick (1sickveilsidez) experienced the same issue when tuning at Church Auto the first time. He will likely be back for another tuning session and so will I.

Gary, you previously said that the sc can get us up to around 180 hp. I would eventually like to reach that further down the road.

 

It's at the crank.

 

Nice numbers with the Injen CAI and Mugen exhaust. Cool car to toy around Los Angeles and not get beaten down by the soccer mom SUV. I get that a lot here in New Tampa.

If my goal is around ~180 to 200 crank horse power, I would go with a higher rate fuel pump, 4 larger injectors and Hondata FlashPro. 360 cc would be about the right size and you could ditch the supplementary injector leaving you option for water injection at boost. I believe 155 liter per hours would be a good size but don’t know if you have to install a fuel return line. A plug-n-play fuel pump from other Honda/Acura model would be nice. The TSX fuel pump, rate at 50-60 gph might fit but the 3/8” outlet is larger than our car 5/16” outlet. I am happy with what I have now on my daily beater and will spend time to tune the exhaust system to maintain high exhaust gas velocity.

 

You are going to want to use an Evo X fuel pump. It's a confirmed direct drop in upgrade for GD and it is for the GE as well if I remember.

You may well need a retune because this pump will not be falling off as fast in boost at higher rpm, so you should end up richer after just installing.

A Walbro 255 has a high likelihood of overrunning the FPR, requiring a switch to a return style system. In addition to modifications need as it is larger than the stock pump and the Evo pump.

If you have the option to tune for them, I would consider a switch to RDX 410cc/min injectors. This would allow you to make more power in the future, as well as switch to E85 and still have enough fuel system to push upwards of 260whp.

 

I'm pretty sure that is not at the flywheel, unless they pulled your engine to put on a stand lol

Church uses Dynapacks, no? So taken at the wheel hubs. Which reads higher than a Chassis Dyno like DynoJet, and most DJs are set to read higher than Mustang Dynos.

The 597whp I made on an MD couple months ago, would make 650-660whp on a competing DJ, and would not be exaggerating to say nearly 700hp on a hub dyno.

 

Thank you very much DSM for your input. I will look into those. I am not In a huge rush to update my fuel pump. I am quite happy at this time how it is currently running as Steven also said but wanted to ask now as this thread is still currently a hot topic. Eventually though I will upgrade and try to maximize the sc's potential.

 

Yes you are correct that Church uses dynapacks. Yup taken at the wheel hubs.

Once I eventually make the upgrades and tune. I will go to another local another shop where they use a mustang dyno. I'll post the results here from the mustang when I do.

 

You should stick with the same dyno, so you know what your mods did for you.

 

Yes I intend to get any future tunes at Church. I just wanted to use the mustang to see where I am at the wheels so the mustang would be the last thing I do.

 

I have a question about exhausts and which one might best compliment my SC setup. I plan on doing a CAI and I want to do a Tenabe Medalion Touring exhaust but I have noticed it is only an axleback and not a catback. Should I find one that is a catback to take full advantage of me doing an exhaust in the first place? I also do not want to remove any cats due to emissions. If I do a full catback will that replace my cat or is the cat further forward? I know technically a catback is from the cat back hence the name lol, but I know sometimes cats are further back and I don't want to end up with an emissions problem. Thanks guys.

Edit: I feel like if I do just an axleback I am kind of cheating myself and wasting money on something that probably won't make as big of a difference.

 

What exactly do they check on your car to pass emissions there? I would assume that the sc as it is right now since it's not carb approved yet would not pass. I say just mod as much as you want and find yourself a very accommodating emissions tech come emissions time. Gotta pay to play if you know what I mean. Hehe

 

Well luckily they don't even inspect the car as far as popping the hood. They just check and test your gas cap and sniff your tailpipe (haha) at idle.

 

I have not had any success loading the Church map yet. I even re-downloaded it and made sure not to open it. I should note I am using Letripp V2.1391 because I still cannot get V2.1533 to work either. After the failed load I test drove the car and something odd happened. Several indicators came on, the tach stopped working, and the power steering stopped working! Luckily I was close to home. I reloaded the original map and it seemed to solve the problem. A word to the wise: Save your original map from the SMT8L before you attempt to load a new map! Also if a load fails make sure to reload the original map after.

Goobers suggested that I modify my maps to match the Church maps. That brought up the question, which maps must I copy? So a question for Gary: I know we use the Ignition, Injection, and AFR Modification maps, are there any others?

Also when I compared the maps from my car and the maps Gary put in the SMT8L FAQ I found the AFR modification maps differ? Is this important?

From SMT8L FAQ:



From my car:

 

Be sure to check your grounds AND their location for the SMT. You can get an "rf loop" if you change grounding locations. I'm still getting caught up on things like this. It was a busy few days with the Aussies visiting here, after driving 2,000 miles to go get our car. I can finally start writing the FAQs.

After addressing a ground pin issue, everything is fine in our vehicle. It runs quite smooth and didn't need a remap. We also won't be looking to do every modification under the sun. Our car will remain stock with the blower. You'll be on your own when it comes to mixing and matching components looking for more performance. Just remember that every time you add an airflow mod, you will need more fuel.

 

Ok, never try and drive it with a failed upload. Check your serial cable and try a prior version of your SMT8L map. Saving it a few different times won't hurt. It can get corrupted on your laptop, not just in the SMT unit.

 

Sorry, i said i wouldn't post here until i solved my issue, but figured someone might be interested.

Been taking it easy past couple of days and haven't tripped limp mode. I haven't forced the issue, so i think issue is still there.

But, the reason i'm posting is because, i did get a CEL today... Specifically, a P0335. Now, i was monkeying a round a bit (did an e-brake turn to make a U-turn), but that was some 10-15 minutes prior to the CEL popping up (or at least before i NOTICED it). What i did "do" at the time i noticed the CEL was attempting to go from stop and kept getting wheel hop (its too slippery out).

I don't know if it triggered full on limp, because i was going slow and stopped the moment i saw it (i didn't push RPM past 3k). Then i stopped, shut off and restarted the engine, and it wasn't in limp mode afterwards.

I checked my ULtraGauge just now, and so far it took itself off the pending page, but DTC is still there.

Incidentally, i canceled my order from DX.com... They were taking forever to ship and after a week, emailed me to say it was out of stock and waiting for restock. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like i can quickly get it anytime soon from anywhere else.

Now that the code has popped, i think i will take it to the dealer. If nothing else, have them do a CKP clear.

 

Hey I'm wondering I have a 2012 fit sport with paddle shift..if I install this kit would I get the same results are would I make less power the a Manuel tranny??

 

For those of you who have the sc and NOT living in California, what octane rating are you using with the Church map?

Got a cel today that started from a complete stop as I was lightly pressing on the gas to get going. Car started stuttering then died on me. Shut off the car and was able to restart the car again. Died on me again starting from a completely stop and gently pressing on the gas again. Was able to make it home though. Super annoyed with this. Thought all the issues had been resolved. Popped the hood to see if anything was loose. Didn't see anything. Car was running great since the tune from Saturday. Only thing I did was not run it yesterday. Never went over 5500 rpm like Church Auto told me to also. I called Church today to notify them about my issue. Asked them if they think it's the new tune? Said they didn't think so and that it could be a mechanical/electrical issue. Towed my car to my mechanic to have him check it out tomorrow if it really is then will bring it to Church to have them take a look at it also. Any thoughts fellas? Is it my oem fuel pump? Injectors? Piggyback? Cai? This is a 2013 model by the way. Do I need to warm up the engine every time? When I get in my car, I don't wait for the cold engine light to turn off.

this is pretty much how it died the very first time with the very first map that Sprintex preloaded from a complete stop and me gently pressing on the gas.