It was one of the injector plugs. Got it sorted out and she is complete. Runs great with no CEL.

 

I do have a small leak from the supercharger drain plug. What is the best product to seal that plug? Just thread tape?

Also, I realize that this kit was not designed to make it a HP monster but it just doesn't seem like I'm making around the 140/125 you are steven. It makes me want to immediately buy an intake and full exhaust and have it re-tuned.

Do you think I would see any benefit from having it re-tuned without any mods or do you think the map it shipped with is about as good as it gets?

Also I have not done the idle relearn or the ckp. Would that make any difference?

 

Trying to keep a list of who has the Sprintex SC:

1. Steven Hung, Tampa. - 09 MT - Running
2. Fuzzyfunk, Los Angeles - 13 AT - Running
3. Jibberjabs, Madison. - Running
4. Unknown White Fit from Los Angeles - The one who went to Church Automotive to get tuned - Running
5. Jonathan13, Red Bank. - Running

Anyone else I miss? Add your missing info in replies.

 

Jonathan13, Red Bank - 13 AT - Running

 

Congratulation!!! She is alive.

140/125 is the Sprintex supercharger on my stock car without any modifications using the new map. Car is super fun with predictable linear power delivery. Be careful, a stock Sprintex supercharged car is sneaky quiet and you can be going faster than you think. Step on the gas and go. You should be able to make about the same or more power and torque. My car is older and has more miles, 97K. The base map on my stock car without any modifications runs lean. Load the new map. I believe it should be fine on a stock car. Dyno run with a wideband could confirm it. I paid $60 for 3 runs. Last night for kicks I installed my short ram intake and have driven 50 miles without any CEL. The dyno is for base line number before doing more modification for relative comparison. Retune would help take better advantage of your modification.

Goobers is semi-running.

Jonathan, it might better if the SMT8L is mounted with the wires pointing down ward to prevent water from dripping into connector. The SMT8L appears potted but the connector is not water proof.

 

What "new map" are you referring to? What mods is the "new map" made for or is it just an updated version for a stock Sprintex Fit?

Also where can I download the new map?

I really appreciate all the info steven!

 

1. Steven Hung, Tampa. - 09 MT - Running
2. Fuzzyfunk, Los Angeles - 13 AT - Running
3. Jibberjabs, Madison. - Running
4. Unknown White Fit from Los Angeles - The one who went to Church Automotive to get tuned - Running
5. Jonathan13, Red Bank. - Running
6. Goobers - Semi Running

 

I wouldn't say semi running, more like "running (note*)."

If i drive normally, even by my standards, its fine. It only limps if i forcibly hold a gear at high RPM for too long. Though, after recent "adjustments," i'm not sure of the specifics anymore.

It used to be any gear above 4700. The only real combo i was able to test after adjustments was 1st gear at about 6k and 4th at 5k. 1st limped, 4th did not. And the duration is now even longer. Who in the heck holds 1st gear at 6k for 5-8 seconds? Most people would continue up to redline and then shift, or simply would've shifted by then.

If i accelerate at near WOT, i can go from 2nd gear up to redline, shift to 3rd, go to redline again, shift to fourth and hold at 5k for a while (80mph) without limping now. However, that was at night after work. On the flip side, For the first few days, i was limping almost a second after shifting into fourth.

Almost time for me to go to work... I'll see how it is.

ps. I'm around Chicago.

 

1. Steven Hung, Tampa. - 09 MT - Running
2. Fuzzyfunk, Los Angeles - 13 AT - Running
3. Jibberjabs, Madison. - Running
4. Unknown White Fit from Los Angeles - The one who went to Church Automotive to get tuned - Running
5. Jonathan13, Red Bank. - 13' AT Running
6. Goobers, Chicago - 10' MT Running

 

Got it to limp, twice. Accelerated a little slower than i normally would (because i was trying to watch the RPM).

On a slow RPM climb, it limped in 3rd around 6k (or maybe a little past, since i was just about to shift into 4th). Right before that, i revved 2nd up to 6-6.5k before shifting just fine.

Then, after i got it out of limp... I held it at about 5.5k in 3rd (~65mph) and limped again.

I'm gonna check if i can bring it in to a nearby dealer for them to do the CKP clear/relearn. Though, buying an HDS (clone) doesn't sound like a bad idea, since i can then swap my wheels and reprogram the TPMS and other misc stuff.

 

If you find a good HDS that you are pleased with please share that info with me as I plan on new wheels soon (after I sell my mustang and/or my 357 snub revolver) and I would love to be able to reprogram the TPMS myself as well. I'm just worried about buying one that won't be user friendly or that is poor quality (not familiar with any of the clones that are available).

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ACURA-HIM-HDS-Diagnostic-Tool-System-HDS-/251332778853?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a8499db65&vxp=mtr

I know someone had previously posted this one. You guys think this would work for my 2013 even though it claims its only for Hondas up to 2008? I can't seem to find a decently priced unit that says it will work for something newer than 2008.

 

I got one about two years ago from DHgate.com, but I see they are on ebay now too. It claimed to work up to 08 but I have it working on my 2011 MT. I did have to get a newer version of the cracked HDS software that came with it. I found it on a file sharing site. I believe it is the same software the dealer uses (just older versions) because it matches the service manual very closely.

 

With my luck I wouldn't be able to find the version of software I needed and it would end up being a nice looking paper-weight for my desk at work haha.

 

Here is a pic of mine if it helps.



I am using HDS software version 2.024.05 successfully. I will help you guys "find" this software if you PM me!

You will probably need a RS232 to USB adaptor too. I always use FTDI adapters.

And if you are going to do TPMS you might want to look at triggering tools, if not you have to deflate and re-inflate a wheel to trigger the sensor.

 

PMed you sir

 

To add to this, I pretty much went bone dry when out on circuit last month in my GE8, just was trying to get my fastest time on as little fuel as possible. So as DSM says above, I don't think fueling is the problem and I'm on Advan A050s 215/55 up front and 195/55 out back, so I have lots and lots of grip not counting the other factors attributing to the car's handling.

 

To add add, only time I ever even had a hiccup was on the 12th near back to back AutoX run when the light had come on around 3-4. Only burbled while pulling 1+ lateral G's in a high speed left hand sweeper LOL

 

Fellas,

Not to get off topic with the Sprintex SC, but I'm here to promote a new list for Hondata FlashPro for our GE8. I'm willing to put the time and effort to get Hondata to build us a FlashPro since I live near their company in the Los Angeles area but I need serious backers. This list is actually a list of those who have the funds to prepay/deposit, not just a list of interest like the old original thread. I'm assuming that all those who have the Sprintex SC will also want a hondata FlashPro sometime in their GE8 owner lifetime to really unlock the Fit's potential. Please enter your name in the thread if seriously interested.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1218741

Ok back to the topic of the SC

 

That's the took that will do the CKP? TPMS programming? Key transponder programming too?
What HDS functions does it not do?