Fuel economy should only suffer vs. stock if you are spending time in boost..

 

The cluster shows 35 mpg and the actual is about 31 mpg translating to around 12% error. I am using the original Sprintex base map developed by Jay. I assumed you are using the Church Automotive map because of the PRM racing intake and the weapon-r pipe. Would you please track the gas mileage? I know the Automotive map will burn more fuel to accommodate for the mods. Injector pulse starts from 4.35 psi and for longer duration as RPM and boost climbs. Ignition timing is also less aggressive and pull back starting at 6.28 PSI.

I can't seem to find 91 octane either close to home or nearby at work. There is 87, 89 and 93 octane. I want to try a tank full of 91 octane.

I can be a boost junkie . . . .

 

Steven,

I am running the original map, stock intake, and WR pipe. At least until I confirm this misfire issue is behind me. I have not had any issues since I did the relearn procedure. I would like to find out a bit more on the Church map before i use it. Like what mods the car had?

 

Yeah I also would like to find out the mods on the car and the year of the car that the Church Automotive map is tuned for. I wonder if the year of the Honda Fit make a difference and requires the CKP relearn because I didn't do it to my 09.

Word of caution!!! I was playing with LetRipp attempting to upload the tune from the SMT8L for backup. After saving the uploaded tune to disk from the SMT8L I yanked the USB cable out from the laptop without closing LetRipp. The car didn’t like it one bit. Engine went rough, check engine light came on and UltraGauge alarmed with two trouble codes: P0335 and P0102.

P0335 is the trouble code for the crank position sensor
P0102 is the trouble code for the MAF sensor

Connecting the USB back to the laptop with the running LetRipp didn’t help. Clearing the DTC with UltraGauge only work for a few minutes before the DTC reappeared. So I had to clear the DTC once more with UltraGauge, closed LetRipp, shut off the engine, disconnect the battery and wait 15 minutes to reconnecting everything. Now the car is running fine.

 

I managed to avoid limping on the highway, only because i "short shifted." It seems that as hold as i don't stay above 4700 for more than a second or two, it won't limp (most shifts were below 4700, only one drifted above 4700 for a moment).

That being said, next chance i get, i'm going to switch the map back.

edit: typo

 

The non-HDS procedure in the FSM is only for LEARNING the CKP pattern. You still have to CLEAR the pattern first with the HDS. Once cleared, then you can learn the pattern with HDS or do the non-HDS procedure.

At a Honda dealership, before I had my GNA600, we did the HDS clear & learn and it ended up not working. I think the tech did it wrong though, because the HDS instructed to rev the car to fuel cut and he didn't quite hit it... Interestingly, my next misfires occurred at a higher RPM and a more open throttle, which I don't recall happening before. I remember them occurring at part throttle and more in the mid-RPM range.

Since, your case is more consistent, I'd love to see what happens if you do a CKP pattern clear without a doing a pattern learn. You could always do the non-HDS pattern learn at home later if you want... But if it works without learning anything, it might be best just to leave it... Future mods might upset the sensor again and then you'll just have to go back in to the dealer for a clear & learn.

Being that your current state can reliably trip into limp mode, you should be able to see an immediate change and we will KNOW whether this method works or not. My case is very random and inconsistent, which isn't a very good control. I have to beat on my car hard for over 20 minutes to make it go into limp mode... Because of this, I can't say for sure it solved the misfires...

Just be sure that you aren't actually misfiring... At the dealer, ask for them to go for a ride and see what the knock count looks like on the HDS when it goes into limp mode. If it looks ok, then go ahead with the clear.

Also, my experience going into the dealer with a modded car has been pretty positive so far, so don't be too afraid about mods. I think the techs are just happy to see a Honda that isn't completely boring...

 

well, i managed to finally go to home depot tonight and got an extension (they didn't have the 1/4" extension... so I had to buy a 3/8 extension AND size adapter... also, i was clearly wrong when i said earlier about using 3/8).

I changed the map back... but it was a bit odd... got some "failed" messages a few times and only once did it do it without a "fail." In any case, I changed that -87 to 0 and it seems I can hold the gear above 4700 for longer... but it will still trip limp mode eventually.

My new laptop got shipped, so I should be able to finally do some logging around the end of next week. Hopefully, whatever is causing this limp will show up in the log.

 

This is one thing that I remember from reflashing factory ECU or downloading new map files to standalone or piggyback. It is important to maintain a consistent 12 volts to the battery. Whenever I download a new map I always have my battery charger hookup to the battery and not relied on just the battery to provide the power. Also make sure that none essential electrical item are turn off: A/C, radio, fan, head light, fog light, etc.

 

Here is the dyno runs on my 2009 Honda Fit with the Sprintex supercharger on a Dynojet 224xLC at Proven Power Tampa. I asked the shop to copy the DRF file to my thumb drive but instead got BMP image files. The DRF file has the weather station information. Next time I will remember to make sure I get the DRF file to view with WinPEP.

The first run was done in 4th gear using the base map. As you can see the car is running lean and the graph isn't very smooth either needing timing adjustment or the coils might need replacing. I have a fresh set of plugs installed at the same time as the supercharger. It is time to order a set of new coils to see if it makes a difference.



The second run was done in 3rd gear using the new map after seeing the first run was lean. Operator told me that 4th gear is too tall.. There are improvements in A/F and the car is running closer to the ideal 12.5 for supercharger car with the new map. The new map still needs a little tweaking up top on my car. I will go back to shop for tuning after gutting the restricter pipe, installing an AJ racing pipe and my short ram intake.

 

Just bite the bullet. Buy an AFR Gauge and then tune it yourself. It's not rocket science. Incease the cells that are lean by 5% and decrease the cells that are rich by 5% until everything is good.

 

hellalinear torque. I think you are maxed out on VE mods short of headwork.

 

I have considered buying the Innovate LC-2 Digital wideband kit. It comes with software to run on a laptop to connect to the controller via a RS232 port. I could use the stock A/F sensor bung for the Bosch LSU4.2 wideband O² Sensor in the LC-2 kit and weld another bung for the stock A/F sensor. Where would I weld the bung for the stock A/F sensor on the AJ racing header pipe?

 

Who needs a secondary o2 sensor? Just take it out. That's what I did. Put it back in to clear CEL and pass emissions when that time of year comes around.

 

Alright guys I have it on and just have to finish buttoning up a few things. I have ended up with an extra plug on my engine harness. It is very short and is closest to the vtec solenoid. It comes out of the injector loom I believe. Like I said it is so short and there is nothing near by that it would plug into. I am going to post a couple of pictures and see if you guys can figure out what it is because I feel like a real idiot right now.

 

1. Also I wanted to ask you guys if your wires you tapped into and intercepted at the ecu plugs were completely different colors than what it said in the instructions. I know it says that colors may vary but that the pinouts themselves were correct reguardless of color. I didn't have a single one that matched the color on the instructions.


2. Is it necessary to swap the engine ground location or does it just say to do that because its near the drive belt?


3. Is it also necessary to ground the SMT8 in the specific location it says to or can I use any clean metal surface?


4. My traction control light is on.. any ideas? I wouldn't think any of the wiring I tapped into or intercepted had anything to do with the traction control. I had forgotten to ground the SMT8 before I started it so obviously I was in limp because all of those sensors that now run through the SMT8 were not making a complete circuit. Would this have anything at all to do with my traction control?

 

That plug looks like a fuel injector plug.

The colors of the wires that I intercepted and/or tee on my car’s connectors were the same as in the Sprintex installation manual.

I attached the ground to the throttle body bracket and have no problem yet. My engine ground remains at the same location. I am using the same ground location for my bi-xenon ballast.

 

I am hoping maybe none of my colors were the same since mine is a 2013 AT.. I mean it was completely different.


I agree that does look like an injector plug but I am definitely running on all 4 injectors. Come to think of it, isn't the red and yellow wire on that particular plug the same color as it would be for an injector plug?

 

I am beginning to worry that my pinouts might be different since its a 2013 model.... This may turn into a disaster.

 

I don’t remember the color of the wires. During tear down I labeled all the electrical plugs/connectors and made notes so I won't forget. The bitch part is the injector harness is buried under the supercharger intake manifold so it cannot be easily unplug to check the wire color.

 

The more I look at it the more it looks like an injector and the more sick I feel about pulling the charger back off.