On a cold start IAT and Coolant temp should be +\-10% of ambient. Whichever device is closer is the accurate one.

 

Yesterday and today, i did notice that the timing got up to +55 @ ~2700 rpm in second gear.

But i can't really do much by way of WOT... Only chance i get is at night on the highway on my home... But part of the issue is i have my mom with me (she likes freaking out).

But i do push it harder on my way home, since the highway is clearer... So, i'm still wondering why it limps on way to work, but doesn't when i push harder on way home. Warm up? Lubrication?

Ps... For my first full tank after install, i got..... 21.4 mpg!

 

Nice Thread and in for updates.

Goobers when you get on the car the VE is higher allowing the throttle body to work. When your not on the car the throttle body is mainly closed and cant fill up efficiently the cylinders causing a misfire and limp mode. IMO and a great job too,

 

well... i got on the highway and unfortunately, there were quite a number of cars there plus the road itself wasn't too clear (a lot of slush).

I couldn't go WOT in 4th... or even 3rd without nailing any of the cars in front of me, so I decided to really downshift. I was only going 45 mph, so I dropped to 2nd gear and sure enough, I was close to redline. The moment I bounced off redline, the CEL flickered and almost limped... I forced it a second time only a second later and full on limp.

The interesting thing was, I then shifted before the RPM dropped too much and it stayed at 4k for a bit but couldn't climb, until I let it drop as a test... and once I dropped to/below 3k, it would only climb to 3k.

after that, I flipped the key off and back on and drove normally... or as normally as I could in these conditions.

however, unlike yesterday... the CEL turned off after restart.

 

It sounds like its still learning but the weather outside is not cooperating. Barometric pressures are changing too as the snow moved through. Hopefully Flash Pro comes out soon.

 

OMG... I've been hearing the SC whine so much, I'm STILL hearing it even though my car is OFF and I'm in my bedroom!!!

@SB... it ain't a good job until I can go without limp or even pending codes!!! This is ANNOYING ME!!!!

 

It takes some getting use too. I still hear the turbo of my truck especially when sitting still. I feel like I am still moving too.

You did a great job because you did what most people wished they could do. Its working for the most part but the weather is not on your side. Fuel inconsistency too with winter fuel. If it makes you feel better go over the installation and see if something is loose or not connected. If this was summer I would tell you to look into Water injection. It is definitely needed and I've seen a oil separator installed in the PVC line on supercharger set ups too but that is not the only place oil can get into the combustion chamber. I would say do another ecu reset and do the idle learn procedure but its too cold maybe wait a week I hear its going to warm up. The idle learn procedure is a procedure to set the 5 ecu parameters than need to be set for passing emissions.

 

This is a dumb question. How do you clear commands with a generic scan tool? I see clear DTC in the UltraGuage and nothing on clear commands. Is clearing the command the same as erasing adaptation on European cars?

Coolant temperature between UG and SMT8 are much closer once the engine is hot. The acceptable discrepancy in SMT8 screen snapshot and UG was taken about 5 minutes apart. However the intake temperature differs by around 50 °F. I wonder how the air temperature is derived by the SMT8L without signal feed from the AIT sensor. Today ambient temperate is around 70°F.

 

I am assuming the electrical wiring between the ECU connectors and the SMT8 is proper. Have you eliminated the MAF sensor as potential suspect either dirty or faulty? I cleaned my MAF sensor three times with MAF sensor cleaner: first time installing the supercharger, second time shortly after SRI install because oil from the new K&N cone filter and third time after reverting back to the stock air box. Swap with a good MAF to see if the problems go away. The other thing that I don’t like is the proximity of the MAF sensor to the GM 3 bar MAP sensor. Wires from both sensors can easily overlay on top of each other. I routed the GM 3 bar map sensor wires from underneath the map sensor leaving the MAF sensor wiring un-touch. I am just being anal.

 

My car has been with my tuner for a week now trying to figure out why it keeps shutting off. He brought in his buddy who also happens to be another tuner and tuned it. Yesterday he told me the car ran great. Drove it all day, freeway, street, everything then test drove it one last time last night and it shut off, same problems. He is suspecting that the piggyback is losing power, grounds, and loses it memory. He is waiting to hear back from Gary on what can be done.

 

PM Sent, need info to find Good Tuner near LA,
Thanks

 

Well... Triggered limp mode again today, except not on the highway. With the weather the way it was, i decided to go local to work (only 4 miles on highway anyway).

I tripped it between deliveries. I was accelerating up a slight incline and doing enough slipping that i didn't gain much speed despite going WOT in first gear. I eased off the throttle a little in second. Just as i was about to shift from 2nd to 3rd, it limped.

 

I am curious about the DTC codes in Ultra Gauge when your car goes in limp home mode. Are there any trouble code(s) or pending trouble code(s)? I saw an unrelated problem this afternoon alarmed by UG. UG alarmed something about RPM being max out but my tachometer was slightly above 3000 rpm. It blipped by too fast for me to read. My wife was next to me so I cannot log with SMT8. What is your UG refresh rate? I default mine to 1 second and will increase it to 0.9 second tomorrow.

 

Just the same five misfire codes. If it was clear, i get pending codes. If i already had pending, it becomes full codes. But except for that time right after i installed it, i haven't had any different codes.

I left the refresh rate to default.

The thing about the alarms is most of them are set for specific conditions... 3k being for "economy" driving for some cars. I actually turned off all the alarms.

So if you want to use the alarms, you will have to change them accordingly.

 

There should be a freeze frame of the conditions it happened. I used a scan gauge to fix my mother in laws car and it was a miss fire and a few other codes. The weird thing its was throwing trans codes but when I went to the fix it was the throttle body and all I did was use a fuel injection cleaner with MMO and all the codes went away. If it happens again its a 4 dollar bearing in the throttle body.

Did you do a MAF clamp? It seems that the MAF corrections is making it go into LIMP mode.

 

I believe you mentioned that you have DTC 300-305 and maybe a 335. According to the service manual 300, 3001, 302 and 304 are random misfire detected. A 335 is cranks position (CKP) sensor no signal. Sprintex installation manual page 26 section 8.5, “RPM signal for supplementary controller “ is to intercept the RPM signal by cutting blue wire on pin 32 on ECM/PCM connector C. ECM/PCM connector C pin 32 has a blue wire for CKP (CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR. The service manual describes pin 32 detects CKP sensor signal and with engine running, there should be a pulses. Unless the CKP sensor is faulty and gone bad, you might have bad connections either between the SMT8 and the sensor or between the ECM/PCM and the SMT8.

ECM/PCM connector < --blu-- > < --brown/black-- > SMT8 < --brown-- >< --blu-- >CKP sensor

 

Pretty sure i got 335 because i forgot to plug in the piggyback! Lol.

Anyway, 300 is random, 301 to 304 are for each cylinder (1-4).

During the "tear down," i actually took the MAF out of the airbox (instead of just disconnecting the harness)... Maybe it did get dirty, or damaged. Thinking about ordering a new MAF sensor.

 

My car battery was toasted this past Saturday after 4 years of beating. I was at Parksdale farm in Plant City when my car refused to start with dadaaadaaaadaaaaaadaaaaa. Did I ran out of fuel was the first thought that popped in my head. The fuel gauge light had lit for the past mile but I ignored it. Daily beating on the Honda Fit tells me I should have a gallon left in the tank. Just to be sure low fuel is not a problem, I walked to the closest gas station with my wife about 1.5 miles away for a gallon of fuel. After filling the car with the gallon, my car continues to refused to start with dadaaadaaaadaaaaaadaaaaa. Luckily I am a AAA member. AAA dispatched a flat bed to jump my car. The driver was surprised by the Sprintex supercharger and how quiet it is. A quick battery boost was all that was needed. Auto-zone confirmed that the battery is history and needing a new battery. I now carry a 16' 6 gauge jumper cable and work gloves. Did mucking around with the car, Sprintex supercharger installation and bi-xenon HID retrofit triggered the battery failure? My portable cigarette power inverter is going south as well. You can tell from the overheated smell when my IBM T30 is plugged in and drawing power. Is this coincident or Murphy's law at work? Oh well!!!

I found a 400 watts continuous/800 watts peak power inverter with USB port at Harbor Freight for $30. Not enough juice to run a rice cooker. There is the Harbor Freight 750 watts continuous/1500 watt peak power inverter with USB port for $45 that I am eying. The 750 watts would be an over-killed but I can definitely cook rice or charge a couple of laptops.

 

I finally got to do the relearn procedures this weekend. I used a HDS clone. Interesting thing happened during the CKP, I got the misfire CELs P0300-304 again? Also the CKP procedure with the HDS does not require you to move the car, just warm it up and it prompts you for a few different throttle positions including a fully depressed position until the fuel cut kicks in. I wonder if the fuel cut has something to do with the misfire? So I cleared them and redid the procedure successfully. The car seemed less powerful directly after, but seems to be returning some power after driving around a bit.

 

Steven, I think disconnecting the battery and draining any residual charge will reset the ECU so you can do the relearn procedure. I am not aware of a OBD2 command that can do that. The HDS clone I have has a menu item that specifically lets you reset the ecu so that you can do the relearn.

Also with your temperature issues. I think you could be looking at two separate temperature sensors. The UG can see the intake temperature via OBD2 and the cars original intake air sensor, but the SMT8 can only see the new sensor (that came with the kit) that is after the compressor. So the SC is heating the air up. Mabey?