Mornin'

I'm new to Honda MAF sensors. Does the Honda ECU see a DC voltage from the MAF or does it see a changing frequency signal?

If it sees a DC voltage, what is the best way to increase the voltage so that the ECU will accept a larger diameter CAI? My understanding is that a larger diameter CAI causes the MAF signal to drop causing the computer to throw a CEL.

Actually several people have reported the problem on Fitfreak.net. Most manufacturers resolve the issue with necked down MAF sections except for AEM who uses an electronic widget of some sort (perhaps a voltage divider that feeds the MAF sensor a higher than expected voltage). The necked down section strikes me as being a restriction on airflow so I'd like to find a way around it so I can roll my own CAI without a big expense.

Any thoughts guys?

John

 

Hey everyone, I just recently ordered the Takeda Attack CAI for my 09 Fit Sport AT from:

Takeda Attack Cold Air Intake for 2009-2010 Honda Fit 1.5L - P/N: TA-1003P

I got it and everything was going fine. I was following the included instructions, until i got to Step 13, which was installing the intake into the car itself. I seem to be having some clearance issues with a metal line that runs down in the same area as the intake piping. My question is, is this intake for a manual tranny only? It's not advertised as so on the website, so I don't believe that is the case. Has anyone else installed this intake on their AT Fit sport? I can post pics of the line in question if needed. But the instructions provided by Takeda were poor at best. So I ask my fellow fitfreaks here.

 

Should of done a forum search first, yes the CAI is for manual only.

 

Well I've looked into a few intakes to get for my '10 GE8, but i have no idea exactly what to look for or what im doing. Well basically im looking for something up to like $300-350. Now what im looking for is something to give my baby some oomph! but i dont want to look like some ricer going down the street, so id like something that gives me that oopmh but with a mature sound, any suggestions?

oh yeah and this is my first post btw

 

Fit and oopmh do not go together.

A CAI will sound faster I have read but does not a whole lot for performance. I do not have one as I want to hear my HKS axleback.

I will get shot down but really another couple HP ain't going to get you around town any faster.



P.S. Welcome to the board. Oh do a search. There are lots of threads on intakes including homemade ones that look like they work just as well.

 

Get T1R!!!!

 

Hi,

One of the problems with a cold air intake on the GE8 is the MAF sensor which is in a necked down section of the stock intake system. For the MAF to work in a CAI, it also has to have the same necked down section. IMHO, this necked down area acts as a air flow restriction however without it, a CEL will get thrown.

AEM is coming out with CAI's for cars with MAF's that have some sort of electronic work around circuitry. They don't have the necked section. However, AFAIK they don't have one for the GE8 yet

Time will tell.

John

 

Thanks guys for helping me out, Racebrewer, Im sorry but i could only understand half of what you wrote, haha, sorry but im s total noob right now, and imthefit, the T1R sounds nice, but where can I possibly buy one? Im in the US btw

 

A&J Racing :: Engine :: Air Intakes :: T1R B-Max FRP Intake - Honda Fit 09+ (GE8)


here is the link!!

 

thanks a lot, but just one more question, do you own one yourself? what do you tink of it?

 

I have the K&N typhoon on my car and love it! I have over 8k on the car since its been installed and no problems with it, ever!! The sound is awesome, the "fit"ment is perfect, getting the filter out is easy and its got dyno proven numbers (4.53 whp) You CAN feel the difference right away and it doesn't affect the gas mileage either, I have lots of mileage going back and fourth between Chicago and Detroit to back it up. This intake cost me $255 on Ebay, so its under your price range and if your looking for a company with a long history of quality products, THIS IS THE ONE, PERIOD

PM me with any questions if you'd like.

 

wow, thats the answer i was looking for, yeah ive been looking into the typhoon because of that thread you made, and it looks like a pretty good intake so ill probably end up going with it, thanks a lot Klasse Act

 

No problem Clown and seriously, the filter comes out without a problem too. Someone posted about them (K&N) making a system where you can't get the filter out w/0 taking apart the system...THIS IS 100% UNTRUE! I've cleaned mine once already since its got 8k on it and had NO problem getting it out. Look around Ebay for the best price....;or our forum for a used one!

 

He is trying to tell you that for a factory calibrated MAF/MAS setup you need a consistent diameter intake pipe leading up to and following after the sensor, because changes in pipe shape/size changes the frequency reported for a given airmass passing over the hotwire in the sensor.

For example when zo6 corvette owners think they are being clever in removing a restriction to flow and rip out the plastic grid mesh that promotes smoother fluid flow in the 3.5" GM MAF sensor that come on the LS7, but instead causes the car to run nearly 10% leaner than it should in some cases. Many a dumb DSMer has done this too, though the consequences for us are more grave...

In a turbo application an error like this could lead to detonation on a cold day and require a new headgasket at best or new head studs/pistons/valves/bearings/rods, etc at worst.

 

In our case, it would probably just cause CEL's to be tossed, not pistons.<LOL>

Modern cars run a bit rich to get the catalytic converters to work properly so leaning things down a bit isn't always bad thing. Its just that our ECU's get easily confused when the MAF and the O2 sensors aren't in agreement and throw a tantrum.

I'd like to find out how AEM is tricking the MAF to get it to live happily with a bigger set of tubing. Any idea?

John

 

Well you guys are missing out on the trendy new block window mods.. not too mention pizza slice shaped pieces of exhaust valve hats that mysteriously vaporizes under catastrophic lean condition at full load and gets dumped through the wastegate to atmosphere leaving my turbine and housing intact.. fun stuff I tell ya

Well unfortunately I don't have the actual math handy at the moment because with the exception for the Fit I haven't personally had a MAF/MAS car since I discovered Speed Density and Alpha-N algorithms and decided I got sick of over-running MAFs and MAS sensors and translators/emulators for GM MAFs on different makes. lol

But I would imagine as long as the airflow is steady and they have the ability to place a pre-calibrated MAF and tube in a pull through or blow through configuration they could make a new calibration curve for the product they sell.

I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that modern cars ran richer because on average compression has gone up and running too lean like 15.4:1AFRs or leaner cause lots of NOx compounds and other nasty molecules to form. But either would be plausible because assuming fixed timing, a richer mixture usually means it is still burning on the way out of the combustion chamber thus heating the cat elements quicker..

That would require a little more reading on my part it would seem. Great question!

 

Hi,

At any rate, and for whatever reason, the inside of the tail pipes are black and the exhaust ports get sooty build-up. So to me that's on the rich side of a good burn.

When I look in the header of the air cooled, racing two-strokes I build, the inside of the tubing is a light tan (pale as I am with my Irish ancestry). The piston tops are a medium grey-ish color with only the slightest sign of 'wet'.

Lean makes power as long as you aren't detonating, then its a different story. Rich is safe, but not much fun (unless you're talking money).

John

 

You are correct sir, black soot buildup is akin to rich fouling on spark plugs.

In NA applications, 12.5:1AFR is supposed to be the peak for gasoline power production. or lambda 0.87.

What do these two strokes go in? tube chassis?

 

I've been building two-stroke kart engines for almost 30 years. Mostly Yamaha, IAME, and TKM piston ports and IAME and TKM reed motors for road racing karts.

I've looked at a lot of EGT's, header insides, and piston tops (and a few piston dome bottoms) over the years. We're now getting an inertia dyno up and going along with a WB O2.

Dialing in temperatures for lean works great for the top end, coming out of slow corners with low rpm and low intake velocity takes a little richer mixture to compensate. Lots of variables.

John

 

Any new information on this?