I have read that somewhere too. So all you have done swflej1 is make it sound nicer I like my horribly expensive HKS just for the sound.

 

ANd i Love my Greddy

 

Thanks guys Wafulz and Black3sr for the info, I also love the sound of my wife exhaust. I think I may get the same or Tanabe concept g for my car

 

Said it before, say it again. You're NOT going to get much if any substantial power gains on the Fit from simple bolt on parts. Like you guys are kinda saying, only put parts on your car if you like the aesthetic/aural benefits of them. Or if you're like me, you just like bolting stuff onto your car and knowing it's there.

 

What if we used a F/IC could that help? I know Lyon an DSM has said something about using it for a turbo, But I would guess that it could help on N/A setups just tp keep what little power gain we make. Just a thought. I'm still learning about this kinda stuff.

 

Further to my question on P12, I've finally managed to take some pics of my engine bay (excuse the dirt )













Judging from the pic- do you guys think the 69 K&N will be ok with my current strut bar?

thanks

Gary

 

I think you'd be fine. The K&N intake really sits back, almost completely under the wiper cowl. If anything you might touch on the top corner of the heat shield, but you could maneuver or bend that just enough to fit. Again just my opinion, but I'd go for it.

 

Thanks Meatbaby,

I know there are slight differences in our engine bay but you guys have a res bottle on the right (looking straight at the pic) plus it looks like your engine sits higher to the cowl?

Think might investigate (ie look for more pics on the internet) and compare it to mine but I'm really keen on getting one

 

The reservoir doesn't matter. It's not in the way in our engine bay and you don't even have it, so don't even worry about it. As far as the engine sitting higher, you must just be seeing an illusion. The engine positioning between your pics and those I posted look identical to me. That would be a strange difference just because you have the Euro version of the car. After looking at the pics again, I'm 100% sure it should work. Worst case the corner of the heat shield will touch the strut bar, but it comes with the rubber to put on the edge so it won't foul anything up. You may to have bend the heat shield or trim it every so slightly, but that's worst case. I think you're a go for launch.

BTW: that's the brake master cylinder res, so it's probably on the other side of your engine bay because that's the driver's side.

 

Well, for 2 years now, I've been using the factory MAF tubing cut out of the stock airbox lid for my intake, but it's not QUITE 2" inches and it's quite the hack job that I wonder if it will hold up over time...I've been looking lately at re-doing my air intake for the 50,000 time (for vain reasons), and was wondering if anyone knew of a simple 2" Maf adapter that would fit our GE8 MAF. I've looked about online, most of them are 3" for turbo purposes, and fit the 8th-gen Civic MAF:



It's a circular MAF, while ours is a blade-type, made by Hitachi, I believe. Found a Ford/GM one that seemed to be the same shape, but wasn't entirely sure:



It says it fits a Hitachi blade-style MAF, and comes with a low-rise adapter. Fits a 2.5" pipe, though, so I wonder if the MAF would throw a CEL for a reading out of proper spec.

Wanted to see if anyone in this thread had any ideas.

My idea is to get a 2" MAF adapter that fits our MAF (3" won't work--others have tried the Spectre adapter and had problems with CEL's) and use a 2" velocity stock with a 6" bellmouth and use a bigger filter with a heatshield around it.

 

I know what you're asking and it's really pretty simple. I used this Spectre MAF adapter kit - Aluminum Tube 3" O.D. MAF Adapter Kit. Only the smallest insert that comes with it is 2 1/4", and our MAF sensors require a 2 1/8" inside diameter tube (or is it just 2" even?). That 1/8" is enough to throw the the CEL. So what I did was cut out the tubing from the stock airbox, the part where the sensor actually sits and inserts through, and put it inside the aluminum Spectre tube. You just have to do it bit by bit to get the right fit. If you cut it just small enough it will fit snug in the aluminum tube and you don't need any adhesive or anything. Plus once the sensor is in it goes through the aluminum tube and the plastic, so it also will hold it all in place as well. I should've done a DIY with pics, but oh well.

 

But then the amount of actual air taken in past the throttle body isn't the actual amount of air the MAF is "seeing," and the reading to the ECU would be inaccurate, wouldn't it?

I just went and measured the inlet from the stock airbox lid, and the inlet had an outside circumference of 9 inches. After doing some of that thar college Algebra, the outside diameter of the inlet comes out to about ~2.433 inches, just under a half of an inch. And then, on top of that, the actual flange the MAF bolts to sits about 1 5/8" off of the tube...so, if you want to just want to make it easy, round the diameter off to 2.5" and the MAF flange height to about 1.5". That makes a total of 4" from the mounting flange.

The actual MAF blade is about...2.5" from the flange...so, it has to be 2.5" into the pipe, with another 1.5" before it touches the other side...

Would that tenth or two of an inch really cause a CEL? That's my question. What I'm thinking of doing is taking a Hitachi blade MAF adapter, and welding it to a section of tubing to make my own 2.5" MAF adapter. It's a question of how much tolerance is in the ECU...

 

I don't really follow all you're saying. It's fine, I used it for months before I got my K&N Typhoon and no CEL. I wouldn't be posting that solution if it still threw the CEL. The point of using the Spectre aluminum part is that it's 3" outside diameter, so it's easy to build onto and make whatever kind of intake you want. Then to connect it to the throttle bottle I used a hefty silicone 3" - 2.5" adapter to connect it to the throttle body. As far as actual air getting into the throttle body or whatever, don't worry about it. If it's not throwing a CEL and the car drove completely fine for me then everything's ok.

 

What I'm saying is is that the inlet for the factory MAF tube is about 2.5, and the flange the MAF sits on is about 1.5" above that. So, in theory, if I used a 2.5" section of tube with a MAF flange welded to it that was 1.5" above the tube or a little less, I could in theory use the factory MAF, right?

I already have a maf adapter cut from the factory airbox lid, but it's got a crack in it and I question how well it will hold up in the long run, so I'd rather have one made of aluminum or stainless steel with a 2.5" velocity stack mounted to the other side, with a 6" AEM Dryflow filter on the bellmouth.

 

Sure I think that should work. It's all about the ID of where the MAF sensor is. If that's the right size then you're set. After that do all you want with velocity stacks and everything.

 

Well, did more measuring with a more flexible tape measure.

Come to find out, the factory MAF tube is tapered from the velocity stack up to 2.5". As for the dimensions of the taper, I don't know. But measuring from the 2.5" side, the dimensions from the bottom of the tube to the top of the MAF flange is about about 2.75 inches. So, I guess the MAF should actually sit about 1/2" away from the other side of the pipe, and the flange should be about 3/8" above the pipe.

This is so confusing... I guess at this point, the best thing to do is ask Treadstone how tall their MAF flange is for these Hitachi units and if it's 3/8 of an inch to 1/2, get it and go for it.

 

whats the difference between a/t and m/t air intake for sri for L15a7? holes for the sensors?

 

The difference between the a/t and the m/t is the mounting points on the transmission. For the manual you don't have the tranny mounting point that the auto has.
Also here is how it sounds