I had been lurking here since mid 2007 when I first started researching a new car purchase, and I have watched this place change dramatically.

I too started off with SBC/BBC muscle cars and trucks and I had a 305ci 4 on the floor Monza years ago! Nice to run into another V8 DIY guy!

I too hope things change, but it looks like these Sprintex guys will be the way to go.

But in the last 4 months I have helped 4 GE guys boost their Fits two of which post here regularly, and I am helping a 5th currently.

So maybe if it looks like people want a boost solution so bad that they will do a custom DIY, some companies will get wind of this and come in with an aggressively priced introduction for a turbo or supercharger kit that can be bolted on.

Really what the GE guys need is an end user tunable/flashable ECM. The AEM FIC with a PNP harness is available for the GDs and the AEM FIC6 (30-1910) is already in use on about a dozen USDM GE Fits, no PNP harness is in production unfortunately. So that will require soldering and splicing yourself because no-one can buy the plugs yet.

Everything else is universal. Literally.

 

They had a good Horsepower TV show today showing how to port a cylinder head. A few weeks ago they built a motor running on methanol. Keep an eye open for reruns for that one.

 

Since it is a progressive controller you make any changes with the meth computer, and you leave the ECU/Hondata Flash alone.

If I remember you have a scangauge correct?

I would just monitor 02 volts and adjust accordingly. Since you have it set for boost only at the moment, it will only be active and spraying on open loop, where it will be shooting for whatever values are in the table.

The "worst" it could do is create a rich condition.. in which case you dial back the meth/water delivered.
Just tune the meth till you are seeing the same O2 volts you normally would under boost, and then go leaner a bit at a time till you pick up knock or there is no change in power.

You are only using the meth to cool the charge, so you will be running a bit richer.

Basically you are adding unmetered fuel. But some of it is non-combustible water, and you can feel free to play with the meth mixture.

What size nozzle did they give you? 150psi pump right? You basically shoot for the same AFR's.

I will have more time to go over this tonight and tomorrow if you will be around.

 

On re-thinking this, before you approach a 50/50 meth mix you have work your AEM FIC into the mix... in the mean time once you tell me what size nozzle and what pressure the pump puts out I can figure what you need to inject 3-10% water/fuel ratio.

Then I would start mixing 5-10% meth into that water. This will make things run a bit richer, but you should pick up a TON of timing which will help you make the most of your air flow. Not only that but by condensing the charge you will be packing more heat in without a huge toll on your primary fuel system which is going to be pretty taxed by the 10psi boost on your rotrex. Especially with all the mods you've done to the exhaust side!

So let me know what the nozzle size/pressure is and I will go back through your PM with the links to the model specific info!

To truly take advantage of this system we might need to play with the FIC, but we can definitely get some impressive gains on a mostly water or pure water mix in the mean time.

Adding the meth, because of it's different stoich ratio will skew the AFRs considerably rich. This is why you should start at 3-10% W/F ratio with a mix of 95/5 (Water/Meth) or pure water at first!

I got some fun stuff in the mail myself.. I am updating my thread

 

So sprintex just emailed me, I asked about fitment of the JDM system onto the USDM car well they're telling me due to the fact that we have an egr system in our cars we cannot run their superchargers until they make a U.S. System now my question is... Is that sprintex covering their asses so I don't nuke my engine and then make bad reviews about them or is egr the enemy?

 

i dont think egr is an issue but maybe it doesnt allow the charger to bolt up for clearance?

 

For one thing, the EGR is piping some of the exhaust gas back into the intake. So, the Sprintex won't bolt on as it is, if you leave the EGR valve in place.

So, they have two options, redesign their mount to incorporate the EGR or seal off the EGR as DSM has shown. They don't necessarily require it to be sealed off, you could run an exhaust setup from there.

No matter what, its no longer the simpler bolt on that it originally was. The kit looks simple enough for me to try on a JDM (non-EGR equipped)... me, a guy who just did his own oil change for the first time in 16 years of driving.

 

still have my finegrs crossed for my build.. just need parts now and another commission check

 

I believe somebody could take the harness for the latest model Civic as it has the same exact plugs going into the ECU, the only thing that would need to be done is to verify the wiring, most likely would need to rewire, but changing pins around is much cleaner than splicing. I'm sure it is quite different, since Hondata won't release a FlashPro for the GE, yet they do for the 1.8 autotragic Civic.

 

soldering wasn't that bad. Who wants to spend 200 on a harness anyway? Isn't 2 hours of your life better than $200-$250 on a non existent harness. An EMS would be great but if people are intimidated by using an FIC, how can we hope to get them to tune their EMS, Hondata, ...?

 

I look at that and it scares the shit out of me. Maybe if it was in front of me and I could touch it and make is semi organized then it wouldn't be so bad.

 

Nah, you just cut open the harness, look at the pin diagram, pick the right wire, cut it in the middle, solder each end to the corresponding wire on the FIC harness, rinse wash repeat 25 times (except some are tap rather than intercept). Then heat shrink everything with heat shrink tape.

 

Alright well then that doesn't seem too bad. Maybe if/when I decide to kill my warranty by putting an FIC in there I won't spend the $250 on a harness and just DIY it lol.

 

So question: Even if I have no plans to go forced induction anytime in the near future, would this be a good solution to get a more aggressive tune on my GE? Obviously the effects would be more pronounced with new headers, exhaust, etc... I don't have any boy racer pretensions, I just want some more oomph when passing, and the confidence that I can make it up hills with a kayak on top of my car.

Keep in mind that I have an A/T (albeit with paddle shifters ). Before you jump down my throat for that let me tell you that I wanted to get the manual, but my mom (who couldn't operate a slushbox to save her life) paid for half the car as an early graduation gift. Since I might end up lending it to her some day if her Prius is in the shop, getting the automatic was really the considerate thing to do. Plus, I do a lot of highway driving, and as I'm sure you know, the automatic on the 2012 doesn't drone as much at high speeds because of the gearing ratio.

Anyway, you guys seem very knowledgeable and I was hoping you could help with this...

 

It wouldn't do much for you NA. It is not designed to advanced timing. I did find a way to advanced timing by clamping the MAP reading. But it's a helluva work around because you got to add fuel too.

 

I commend you for being so considerate, I really like that about people.

 

Thanks...lol