Thanks DSM

I thought about the Disco, but wasnt sure the Fit's 5AT or stock internals would cope. Of the guys running on your designs, the ones with the 5at/stock internal, approximate whp, USDM? fuel trim issues, cel light?
We can take it pm if you want
Pat

 

Ah ok, Its pretty straight forward. Our cars use a hall type cam and crank sensor. The tps signal you want to use is the one that's 0.8v-3.9v (Confirmed by fontana on the AEM forums).

Connect the Map sensor to analog A or B.

The upstream O2 sensor is a wideband style. (2.2v= ~14.7 AFR)

Then just connect the injectors, MAF, power and grounds as shown.

I have not verified if we can just connect the Vtec switch, or if we need to trick the ECU in order to do this. I see that there is a secondary pressure sensor, so it may not be as simple as just connecting it. The stock ECU may get a signal when it is active, so we may need to find a way to trick it to prevent a cel. I am just not using that for now.

So far all I have is the RSX-s injectors, and AEM fic6. I'm waiting to get the rest until I decide on the turbo.

 

Thanks, thats basically where I'm at with the wiring.
Where did you get the rsx-s inj. & does it matter what year?
Are you MT or AT

 

I got them off ebay. There appear to be a lot of them for sale. Not sure what year they are from, but that shouldn't matter.

You can also use RDX injectors, if you can find them.

I have a MT.

 

That turbo (2860RS) is surrounded by a lot of hype from the funky Nissan it came off of, but on certain applications it does shine. For some reason, the rusty trusty MHI Small and Evo3 16Gs are a hard sell to most of the Honda crowd so we end up using the more expensive Disco Potato.

Do you have a power or trap speed goal for the car?

There are about a dozen guys that consulted with me running the FIC or the Dastek Q (mostly in Asia) and making 225-250whp on the 2860. Most are MT, 3-4 are AT

No real severe drivability issues there, and the FIC can be the same it just takes a good deal of tinkering to deal with the throttle tip in and part throttle low-load conditions on the FIC for the GEs. No CELs with a piggyback thats configured properly. ECU shouldn't even know its there.

GE stock internals are pretty stout, all things considered.. It's torque control that is the main concern. North of 240-250wtq or so (MT) would seem to be pushing your luck. Head studs and rod bolts seem to be the only real weak link, even then theres a couple stock long blocks we are estimating to be well north of 250whp based on timing, boost and AFR and they haven't come apart yet. Usually after they pay up and everything is turnkey I dont hear from them again. Occasionally Arton or someone will drop me a line with any news/accomplishments though. Few of them post or create build threads.

Many of them want their data kept confidential, so I can only divulge so much.

Main thing with the AT is get a large, quality tube/fine fluid cooler and let it get up to temp 215* before you do any real beating on the car.

I imagine any complaints, failures or issues would get my phone/email box lit up in a hurry though haha.

I am of the opinion that longevity and max power is most dependent on the tune, then owner habits of operation and maintainence.

Spiking boost and putting down 300lb-ft on a stock bottom end? You might get away with that for one pull and then I'd bet bearings and rod bolts will come apart and window the block if the head doesnt lift first.

ARP does make fasteners for us, tracking them down is a bitch though. I had to get them overseas last time.

 

I'm thinking about 190-210 max wtq, essentially doubling it, thats as far as I want to take the AT
You're right about the internal & smaller turbos, as soon as I read it, it reminded me of my issues with my 94 celica with the 17C 8cm, ended up putting a small hks external. When I upped to a 20g 10cm it was a blast, no traction, but a blast.
So now you have me staring at the back of the motor, lol, to see how I'm going to stuff a gt28rs w/.63 t3 & a 38mm wg back there. Still amazed at the 15psi @ 3100 rpm with this potato
pm me what your consulting entails, of late I havent been doing my own tuning, the last ems I tuned from scratch was a e6k, so with the fic I will need to get back up to speed & a little pointing will go a long way.
I have a 235 matrix 13 row -6 oil cooler I going to use for the tranny, no thermostat

 

Changed my mind about installing the FIC under the hood. I extended both harnesses, and am going to mount it up under the driver side dash. I just need to get a longer vacuum hose now.

 

Apologies for my shitty correspondence lately..

Funny you should mention the e6k... Haltech is what I was looking to run on the Fit when I finally get to have the rest of my next setup fabbed together.

Unfortunately this is continually being held up by other items, specifically having a new house, long term girlfriend, and a racecar all in progress

The 2860RS in the small T3 hotside with a 38mm gate is the tits for a boosted Fit. Spool comes down mainly to the tune, exhaust plumbing and fuel, if everything else kept stock (Cam/Head)

That trans cooler sounds about perfect. Think about putting a switched fan on their and running a remote temp sending unit tee-d in on the feed side of the cooler.

In this particular case, my consulting would come down to design, sourcing (if you had me locate/ship parts) and trouble shooting/remote tuning or diag via .cal logs from the FIC etc.

I put a bit more tech out in this exchange than I normally would have for free because you and Schoat actually research and have previous experience in custom setups from what you two have told me. Because you guys aren't doing anything radical I only had to review my older designs of other GE's

So basically you would just be compensating me for my time and some of the costs on my end to get to this stage (education/experience) at a real cheap rate if you wanted my continued involvement in the process as it matures.

That may sound odd, but you wouldn't expect a lawyer, accountant or doctor to always work pro-bono.. even if the "work" is only verbal/textual or a finders fee for other parts/services.

I'll let you guys decide for yourselves if that seems fair, and if more time (read: work) is needed beyond what i've already thrown out there we can discuss a small rate as I cut a heavy discount for FF.net members.

Or because you two seem to be the researching type, most of what you need is already on here, posted by myself and others.. and that would cut me out entirely

The more involved/complex the greater the rate. This sort of thing typically goes for $20/hour or a per message/conversation charge and I give you my private cell and email so its basically keeping me on retainer for calls/messages.

And if you have seen how much I try to pack into a message, I'd say that is worth it for most people and many have concluded the same

I'd like to think that is fair, and others have thought so too. A buddy of mine is an aerodynamicist who operates the same way.

My actual wrench/transport hours for performance/mod work run from 50-95/hour for locals depending on the job. I am space/time limited as of late though and already have a car in my one available spot.

I had mine tucked up in the glove box, because of where the GD ECU is located, and then had a fat boost ref line through a grommet on the firewall to give the FIC's onboard MAP its source.

I bought 10' of heavy duty silicone hose, 3/8ID I think.

 

Completely understandable. I wouldn't expect you to give advanced support for free. I was meerley looking for a point in the right direction, which you have gone above and beyond already.


Yeah I plan to get something heavy duty. The hose that came with it is wimpy, and would probably kink if I try to stuff it through the grommet.

 

Or worse collapse/balloon under vac/boost haha

 

Thanks DSM

Time is money and when something stumps me or I'm unsure (although I have a little experience modding, tho not little Hondas) always said Honda made good generators, LOL, it would be great to have you in my corner.

Yeah, on the sensor from the tranny cooler, the only place to really put it is on the discharge from the cooler before it returns into the tranny. I should do this first to get a nominal temp.

That 16g 7cm2 small is like extinct! mia

I was going to do the Head studs for sure since the block is an open deck.

I'm trying to sort out my new tranny in the Celica to run the 1/2 mile in October. Already did 210 in the mile with it & since they stopped the mile runs in Florida, Texas is the next thing. The 1/2 mile is a shake down for texas, which I think as a true street car, it can do 220-225 with the 1000awhp its putting down.

I'm thinking of making a vacuum mani with at least 5 ports & attaching it to the firewall, from there using hd nylon hose.

Just got a set of 4 bolt civic si rear discs. I'll make it Fit, Sport, LOL

 

I have my wiring all completed, and installed the bypass harness to make sure the car runs, and everything is good.

Now I need to tap into the vacuum line, to connect the internal map, but all I see is the brake booster. Is that really the only vacuum line on the GE8?

If it is, I may pull the upper intake off, and tap a new line into that I can later use for a boost gauge as well.

 

FIC fully installed, calibrated, and running perfectly.

I ran a quick log on my test drive so I could see what it looks like. This AEM software blows Greddy's away.

 

Heres another view. Definitely going to have to clamp that MAF voltage.

 

Which vac line did you use to reference the FIC's MAP? Signal looks shaky.

If you tapped into the plenum you may be getting weird resonance..

 

I tapped into the only one that was there on the GE, for the brake booster.

I also thought it looked shaky, but I have the cars map connected to analog B, and it looks identical. Might just have been my shaky foot

Actually, its probably the injen CAI. Maybe I should see what it looks like with the stock air box.

 

Hmm.. see my only concern there is what the MAP signal will do to your timing. Under boost on pump gas 1-2* advance at the same AFR and airflow on a high comp motor can make all the difference.

Not trying to make you paranoid, just something to consider.

 

Yeah I'm a little concerned on that as well. Hopefully it is just cause by the intake noise. the Injen is quite loud. Then again, I would expect to see the intake noise more in the MAF signal, so I dunno.

If it goes away with the stock airbox, I'll feel a little better.

 

So I had a scangauge 2 that I used in my previous car, and was hoping to use it to capture my short and log term fuel trims. Seems that it doesnt support the 29-bit canbus that the GE8 uses tho. Now I need to find something that does. Any ideas?

 

OK, so I got an ultragauge, and can now see my short and long term fuel trims.

What worried me is the ST seem to stay between 7-13%. Long term shows 9-10 That doesn't seem normal, or is it for this engine?

No vacuum leak, but I do have the CAI installed. Could that be the culprit?