y not? I/H/E (full piping) with a light tune and lightened flywheel with those fun spark plugs (Thanks Oscar Snr.) and some premix fuel=good times!

 

I have the PRM intake, t1r muffler, and cold plugs. So you're saying if I add, for example, t1r b-pipe, weaponR cat delete and down-pipe, and a secret fuel mixture I can hit 140 to the wheels? What would you use to tune? I want to believe it, but there's just no way.

 

What does a light tune consist of in your mind?

Our 1.5l would probably have to rev out to >8k rpm to take advantage of all of these and the changes would shift the torque curve to the right , sacrificing what little low and mid range torque we currently have. Things would have to run considerably leaner with more aggressive timing.

You are optimistic bordering delusional to think a lighter flywhee, full intake/exhaust work, some spark plugs and like Sunoco 100oct will allow us 50whp. Even on a manual trans that would be a stretch.

How expensive would all these components and dyno sessions be in the end for maybe 50whp?

The chances for 140 flywheel horsepower are better, but that is a lot of money and time for a big sacrifice in reliability. High rpm is more stress than high boost alone. Not too mention what you are doing to our transmission and clutch shifting at or above 8k.

Our stock redline will push about ~350cfm (assuming high VE) just pair a decent compressor to it and call it a day. Tuning is more than bolting on random parts and dicking around with the ECU. You need to match appropriate components for your goal or all your tuning will be for nothing..

 

If you are looking for efficiency go at minimum with a GT28-sized compressor and T25 turbine hybrid, they use the same CHRAs.

The 1.5L is probably about the largest displacement you can put a GT25 on. Theres a reason it is often referred to as a T2Small and is almost always upgraded on the 1.5- 2.0L's you usually find it on. I have had one on two of my cars.

A 1.5L Hyundai Alpha engine and a 2.0L Mitsu Sirius family engine. Both were choking on it with boost spiking and then falling of quickly towards the upper end of the rev range. And when PRs approach 2bar absolute you are already out of the efficiency range. So if you don't live at 1000ft above sea level or less in a cool, dry place this size compressor will be a real restriction and working harder and hotter than is ideal.

It also depends on which GT25 we are discussing, one of the larger turbine sides will produce better pump gas efficiency and more HP/psi while still providing plenty of torque from the quick spool because there is lower required drive pressure.. Not to mention that the Turbine Exducer and the Wastegate flapper are seperated on the MHI housing, so less turbulent evacuation and even higher efficiency.

A 13G/14B/15C/16G family compressor and a 6cm2 TD05H turbine would fit the bill far better and allow you to pump out cooler IATs and more power at lower pressure. Then you will be able to offer staged upgrades with different flashes. 5, 10, 15 and 20psi tunes for instance would all still be efficient (and violent) on a 14b (430cfm) for example.

I'd like to see 205hp/220lb-ft on a mild tune @ 12-14psi, with full spool in the mid 2k rpm range in 3rd gear. That would make for some serious grunt and a mean little car. This could be accomplished with some lean burning down low to get exhaust gas temps and velocity up like in the last 3 generations of Evo's.

Not too mention cheaper. Even DBB Honeywell-Garrett GT2554Rs in a .48A/R T3 housing (the littlest of them all) retail for $1100! A MHI TD05H 16G (>550CFM) can be found brand new for between $4-600 through several vendors.

So something proven and cheap that would hold boost to redline would be a nice platform to start from!

I can provide compressor maps for all of these on request.

I put a T25 on a highwinding Yamaha R6 (600cc bike) and that was a blast. But that too starts to leave the 70% compressor efficiency islands at only 12,500rpm! (~260cfm) the drive pressure was still 1:1, the compressor is just to small in terms of flow.

 

No offense Note, but last I heard your cars engine is stock -____- if you're going to suggest such things, then atleast have the exact same things on your car....so for this, I call BS until you show that this exact same setup on your car that makes 50 whp -______-

 

No way the 1.5 can do 140whp on bolt parts consisting of I/H/E unless you toss in some nitrous. Even then it's a stretch. The name of the game is moving air/oxygen. A 1.5 can only move so much

 

Yup ~350cfm @ 7k rpm. That my be a little generous on my part, but I am ASSuming ~90% VE.

 

Oh and just to let you know, Stickers doesn't add HP

 

LOL kidding me man? i got +5 out of mine and +10 out of my badges haha

 

diamond, you are one sick brother! lol, i think you should make your own turbo kit eh? you're knowledgeable enough to pull this off!

 

I really would like to honestly, but at this point in time I just have to many other obligations. The only things I need to get sorted are a user tunable computer, which a group called RCA in South East Asia is supposedly working on, but only for GE8s.

Besides a current lack of available capital to start mass producing, I need to find an appropriate lap top tuning interface like VAGCom for VWs or ECMLink for DSMs and then finding a manifold for GD3's and a flange adapter for the GE8s.

Once those are settled I can at least post up a DIY and provide some tech support for others who don't want to or can't afford a kit based on a >$1000 turbo that might be able to squeeze out 100whp more at the very edge of the more efficient compressor map islands.

So with ECU control (preferably speed density), some proper injectors, pump and regulator, and good fuel we should be good to go.

If anyone has questions/concerns or just wants to shoot the shit, send me a PM and I will be more than happy to walk through a custom setup.

I expect that the most expensive part will be custom manifold fabrications at first, till someone steps up and starts selling them, and I don't know why they haven't. They would corner the market, as their are none being made and sold in North America, at least that I have been able to find yet.

After a few Emails with HK$ it is pretty apparent they don't want people to have cheap manifolds to piece their own kits together to get around the ~$3500 they want for a bolt on kit. A decent log manifold is only about $100 in materials and the rest goes to the fabricator. I don't have a welder at the moment so that leaves me SOL too.

HK$ knows it is practically rape in that regard and they put me through the ringer just to locate a manifold from a kit that was returned or seperated to fulfil a warranty obligation. Which is a shame because I have several HKS parts in my other projects, my Talon used to have a set of their 272* duration cams for example, and as expensive as they were I liked them.

So, again any builds I do will each be one off, including my own GD3's going to be starting from scratch. I have been flooded with PMs lately, and I can't get to everyone same day, though I try, but don't let that discourage anyone! I am not here to make a profit, just to bring some answers to the DIY crowd that wants to go forced induction but doesn't know where or how to start.

I am a full time student and running a small business in addition to some unfortunate family issues that have developed lately, so my free time is short, as some of my 3am posts can illustrate, but I would love to help anyone who can form full sentences and is friendly!

 

All PMs have been responded to, sorry for the delay!

So the more I read into it the more the AEM FIC with 8 injector drivers looks like it will be the best solution, it is lap top based which is my main requirement and comes with a USB com cable.

It is not quite as flexible as my ECMTuning units but it is only $600, so about $100 cheaper than ECMLink.

So with a little intake manifold modification for a second fuel rail I should be able to get away with a decent size turbo and enough small injectors (~450-750cc/min @ 3bar BFP) to flow plenty E85/98 without any stutter, start up or part throttle issues.

Really all we need for GEs (all prices are if you buy brand new and you are buying the more expensive ones available):

AEM FIC - $600
Loggable UEGO Gauge and Controller - $200
IAT - $50
MAP - $90-150 depending on your goals
EGT- $120-180
In line fuel pump - $90-220 depending on your goals
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $100-230
Charge piping/couplers - $150-400
Injectors - $300-1100 depending on your goals
Exhaust Mani adapter - $30 in materials.. labor depends on how good of friends you are with the machinist or what tools you have
Downpipe - $60 in flanges and materials plus labor (see above)
Intercoolers - $200-1000+ depending on your goals
BOV/Bypass - $40-200
Turbo - $300-1800 depending on your goals
Boomslang wiring harness - $220

So ~$2500- $5300 for a balls to the walls set up with everything new in box at full retail mark-up prices. This is neglecting free/salvaged parts.

This would be the route to go for people looking for >180whp, and not everything listed is necessary but I would strongly recommend all of the above including aftermarket sensors, AFPR, etc. Depending on your tuning ability and goals, rotating assembly upgrades couldnt hurt and in some cases will be necessary, but at the cost of atleast another $1k thrown in.

MAF/MAS tuning and calibration would be easier for beginners, Speed Density would be ideal and not every can afford to set up Speed Density the easy way with a MAF/MAS and then change their charge piping after initial VE table setup.

Again any further questions please PM me, and I would be happy to go through it with you

If someone has the time, funding and is close enough I will help you put things together and tune simply because this is my obsession.

All you have to do is ask and use full sentences!

 

yepp thats the typical price everyone is putting out for turbos, plus all the fab work and labor like ya said will be on there. BUT as for us, we'll put something out there for you guys more affordable and with some nice output from it as well. just give us some time after sema. After sema, things are gonna be cranking!

 

Which, if any of these parts, could be utilized to make the KW supercharger work on the GE8?

 

What parts do you already have and what are your goals?

A couple brackets, a proper sized belt and a tensioner of some sort with some charge piping would be necessary to mount the compressor, but you can just buy one of those seperate, not necessarily from a Fit kit either... it is belt driven no lag! Then you can experiment with different pulleys.

This sort of setup would require an AEM FIC, some sensors, injectors, etc.

To not threadjack too much we should probably carry on in PM or start a new thread

 

yea, i guess i really don't know anything about the fit or tuning. I just like stickers and hard parking.

it is kinda funny tho that everytime i'm at the track, everyone thinks i have a swap, even the honda challenge guys. wonder if it has to do with the fact that i put down a faster lap time than the j's racing s2k...

 

 

"heard?" Have you seen or ridden in or driven his car? it's not a +50whp monster but certainly it's far from being stock

oh, and i don't mean the stickers

 

^LOL @ cool story bro

10 char liks my ballz

 

*awkward sliding fit*
YouTube - Honda Fit rainy E-brake drift: Final Trial!!!