2 STAINLESS STEEL 2.75" eBay Motors

 

haha well hers the problem with that. first its 18. but if i do do that, it will make my assembly longer because of the extra coupler reducer and section of pipe to connect it from the filter. and im worried it will be too long for the orientation im using. im trying not to spend any more money than i already did on it by just making a fix from things i have already because i want to use the mafs tube

 

...aaand it threw a CEL
I'm still waiting for something in the mail so I can connect the vacuum hose and see how far it goes before it throws another CEL
I'll try to figure this thing out before I slip on the PRM

 

Make sure all of your connections are tight. If you are using the stock MAF tube you shouldn't be having an issue.

 

So i just wanted to update everyone because i just had my car dyno'ed today. This intake DIY intake using the parts I have in my configuration and the heatshield i made produce close to an extra 5hp. I believe stock is 89whp and i got 93.9whp and my only perf mod is the intake and shield. Hope this info helps everyone!

 

nice... kudos for dyno'ing. post graphs. I just might hit the dyno and see what numbers the hack vs prm produce

 

a shot before being replaced with PRM... Also, this gives me a chance to install the vac to the intake.
So yes, this hack is not over yet... plan to put both intake on dyno

 

+rep. Proof this DIY makes as much hp as the K&N intake. Again why are people spending $300+ on intakes?

Scan the dyno sheet when you get a chance. I'd like to compare it to the K&N.
http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/69-1017_dyno.pdf

Also I believe the K&N used a manual... you are close to the same hp#s with an auto. I could be wrong though...typically for dyno runs you see manuals being used from aftermarket manufacturers.

 

Thanks for the rep man!, i am pretty sure for the kind of dyno they had its negligible as far as manual or auto. They just use 2nd gear for the numbers, they dont cycle through gears like they do on the dyno's with the drum in the ground. I could be wrong but they did the exact same thing for manuals as they did for my auto during the dyno. They used the paddles, put it in 2nd and went to the max.

I will post the charts soon!

 

I just want to throw this out there. If you have anything touching the filter the engine vibration can eventually put a hole in it. The wire mesh will be sharp and that's not something you want near any electrical insulation or coolant lines

 

This is one of the many reasons i decided to put it front facing rather than shoved in the back like a reject lol. I just cant stand the look of making a nice intake and hiding it away haha. plus the way mines set up it gets much more direct air.

 

yes that is a concern that should be checked... found it the painful way when the damaged screen mesh from the filter poked a pair and drew blood

btw... i'm planning to do a side by side dyno base runs... hack vs prm

 

I'm pretty sure the baseline number is 93 whp. Regardless, if you didn't dyno before and after there really isn't any point.

 

That would be great. Make sure to disconnect your battery to reset the ECU prior to dyno day. It would be awesome if you could do stock vs. DIY vs. PRM with overlapping graphs since you will get 3 pulls.

I'm not interested in peak HP (how often do you really drive at 7800-8800 RPMs...)...I'm more interested in preserving or increasing low and mid engine TQ.

 

Its not 93, check the previous post with the K&N dyno charts or the chart i posted from mine here
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post929943

And in regards to the resetting of the ECU, why would you do that if there is a 50mile learn period? your gonna dyno a car that hasnt relearned the fuel trim maybe im missing something.

 

You are missing something...here let me fix that for you:

"I had installed the factory air box back in the car to get a baseline. Horsepower peaked around 102. Trading out the stock filter for the Takeda cold-air unit earned us a bit more peak horsepower, but more importantly, provided a nice useable kick in the midrange, where the car spends the majority of its time. This is far more important than a peak number when dealing with a street car."


Source: Project 2009 Honda Fit - Denso Iridium Spark Plugs - Honda Tuning Magazine

As you can see, peak horsepower is significantly more than 93 on this dyno...it's about 10 hp more than what you quoted with the DIY CAI or from K&N's testing.

93 whp is what Import Tuner got with a baseline pull on a 2008....I had confused my dyno graphs. All of this information is available in "Biggest Loser.."



Regardless, this is not the point of a dyno....a dyno is NOT meant to give a STANDARD REFERENCE HP number to compare all cars (which is what you're trying to do by quoting K&N's baseline number). Instead, it's a tool for tuning and allows comparison (ONLY WITH THE SAME CAR ON THE SAME DYNO WITH SIMILAR AMBIENT CONDITIONS) between tunes and bolt-ons.

The reason I suggested resetting the battery is because I assumed TheEvilOne has been running the DIY CAI for a couple days and the ECU has adjusted for this mod vs. the stock airbox. Regardless, testing different bolt-ons on the same car during the same dyno session is the gold starndard for comparing gains.

 

I would say never since the Fit redline's at 6800K

 

What cat back is being used on the 09 in these tests??? I have searched and I didn't think any company was making a cat back. Obviously if there is a cat back installed then the baseline is not stock so even those charts are skewed. And i understand about how one persons test is going to be different from another I was just stating mine as a point of reference. There must be figures somewhere that state the GE's stock whp. Or what is the calculation used to convert hp to whp??

 

I agree with your concerns/comments. Unfortunately, I've never been able to find a completely stock GE dyno graph. This is the best we have. Some generalizations can be drawn though based on what we know about the response of a small NA Honda 4 cylinder after the addition of a free flowing exhaust: moderate low/midrange power loss with a 2-3 hp gain at the very top of the power curve (really unusable power IMHO).
And my point is that your dyno # isn't a helpful reference for anyone because there is no before/after comparison and probably nobody will be using the same dyno on similar conditions. For all we know, you might have lost 10 bhp...

 

Since my setup is exactly like K&N's Typhoon kit (including heat sheild) I have a feeling we would see gains like this...


http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/69-1017_dyno.pdf

I am using an AEM Dryflow filter instead though.
Plus I know all about your hang up with velocity stacks. So just to inform you I used the stock maf tube which has a velocity stack built into it. So all the air coming from my filter will taper into my maf tube perfectly.

Funniest thing I've heard all day.

I can't believe 10 pages later...you still can't just realize you don't need to spend $300 to see 4-5hp gain.