Our GD Build Thread
#161
Some more parts have come in...
And we started taking apart the second engine so it can get built. Still debating the exact plan with it, but I was glad the complete engine wiring harness was unmolested. Got the whole thing off in one piece so I'll have a complete harness and every sensor, bolt, etc as back ups.
And we started taking apart the second engine so it can get built. Still debating the exact plan with it, but I was glad the complete engine wiring harness was unmolested. Got the whole thing off in one piece so I'll have a complete harness and every sensor, bolt, etc as back ups.
Last edited by GAFIT; 01-12-2022 at 03:59 PM.
#162
The backup engine looks really clean, and good news about the harness and sensors.
What made you go with the ProSport wideband?
I have their engine oil temp and pressure gauges in my EK, but the wideband in the car is an AEM unit.
The build quality of the ProSport product definitely matches the price point, and I want my tuner to have reliable data to work off of.
Not sure if anyone has done any testing to see how reliable certain brands are compared to others (I know a lot of them use the same Bosch 4.9 sensor) but I just feel better about it I suppose.
What made you go with the ProSport wideband?
I have their engine oil temp and pressure gauges in my EK, but the wideband in the car is an AEM unit.
The build quality of the ProSport product definitely matches the price point, and I want my tuner to have reliable data to work off of.
Not sure if anyone has done any testing to see how reliable certain brands are compared to others (I know a lot of them use the same Bosch 4.9 sensor) but I just feel better about it I suppose.
#163
That's the exact reason. This uses the same Bosch 4.9 sensor. In theory the gauge is nothing but a readout for what that sensor reports. So, hopefully, it will be ok. I'm not going to lie...I was happy to see a NIB Bosch sensor in the box. Was worried they listed that sensor, but was going to supply something less trustworthy.
Between the ECU reading and the tailpipe sniffer the tuner should be able to tell quickly if the gauge is off.
What landed me on Prosport was trying to match the 60mm size of the Turbosmart boost controller so that the gauges would match in diameter. I'm more of a domestic guy so my normal go to is Autometer. My fox body has 20+ year old Ultra-Lite's that still work perfectly. They don't make those in 60mm (2 3/8") so I started shopping other options. Hopefully I won't regret the choice.
Between the ECU reading and the tailpipe sniffer the tuner should be able to tell quickly if the gauge is off.
What landed me on Prosport was trying to match the 60mm size of the Turbosmart boost controller so that the gauges would match in diameter. I'm more of a domestic guy so my normal go to is Autometer. My fox body has 20+ year old Ultra-Lite's that still work perfectly. They don't make those in 60mm (2 3/8") so I started shopping other options. Hopefully I won't regret the choice.
Last edited by GAFIT; 01-12-2022 at 04:13 PM.
#164
Cylinder head dropped off at Racing Systems for all new valves (inconel for exhaust), stronger springs, and porting.
Cylinder block boxed up and being shipped to Cylinder Support Systems to get support rings machined into the block.
Lots of parts ordered. Trying to move forward semi-quickly, but parts are delayed as are machine shops. My local shop said it would be a solid month before they can get to my project so I need to get that block done ASAP and get in line. Well, also need to get the pistons I ordered. Going with CP pistons that are .020" over and 9:1 compression. JE, Wiseco, etc would have been quite a bit cheaper, but the machine shop said they prefer CP's. Figure it's always best to go with whatever the machine shop likes the best.
Cylinder block boxed up and being shipped to Cylinder Support Systems to get support rings machined into the block.
Lots of parts ordered. Trying to move forward semi-quickly, but parts are delayed as are machine shops. My local shop said it would be a solid month before they can get to my project so I need to get that block done ASAP and get in line. Well, also need to get the pistons I ordered. Going with CP pistons that are .020" over and 9:1 compression. JE, Wiseco, etc would have been quite a bit cheaper, but the machine shop said they prefer CP's. Figure it's always best to go with whatever the machine shop likes the best.
#165
Just some pics to show what's come in lately. Haven't bothered to photograph the mountains of basic parts like water pump, oil pump, timing set, gaskets, hoses, belt, idler pulley, etc. The little stuff really starts to add up, but I figure I should replace absolutely everything while the motor is out. Thank goodness for RockAuto and HondaPartsNow. They at least make it easy.
#168
I was wanting to upgrade and replace my stock fuel injectors.
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
#169
I was wanting to upgrade and replace my stock fuel injectors.
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
#170
I was wanting to upgrade and replace my stock fuel injectors.
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
What Deatschwerks 210cc model did you use?
And I doubt the R18 throttle body would make a huge difference to me, but I was considering getting one to pair it with the Weapon R intake manifold.
Where did you source yours from?
Throttle body was sourced from eBay. Got lucky and it came in clean and working.
As Hootie pointed out, the larger injectors are likely not necessary. Car ran fine with them on the Hondata 310cc injector tune though.
Next injectors going in are 650cc Deatschwerks.
#171
My current project is figuring out the fuel system. I pulled the fuel pump assembly out of the other Fit and took it apart to study and see what needs modifying.
Here it is pulled apart...
I have fittings, bulkhead, and hose on order so that I can have -6 (3/8") line from the pump to the top of the assembly. Once I get it to work, I will post the parts used.
Also received the fuel rails I ordered from Velocity Race Innovations in Maylasia. They are a complete no go. Ports are blocked on both sides and they aren't on the same plane to match the angle of the injectors
Emailed RZ Crew to see if their injector rail is actually made to fit on the car and be able to connect fuel lines to.
Still need to pick which type of fuel line I want to run from the pump to the rail. Will likely add in an in-line fuel filter and pressure gauge (or sending unit for interior gauge). Need fuel line that is E85 compatible so probably going with Summit's house brand PTFE braided hose. It's about the most cost effective that looks pretty.
Here it is pulled apart...
I have fittings, bulkhead, and hose on order so that I can have -6 (3/8") line from the pump to the top of the assembly. Once I get it to work, I will post the parts used.
Also received the fuel rails I ordered from Velocity Race Innovations in Maylasia. They are a complete no go. Ports are blocked on both sides and they aren't on the same plane to match the angle of the injectors
Emailed RZ Crew to see if their injector rail is actually made to fit on the car and be able to connect fuel lines to.
Still need to pick which type of fuel line I want to run from the pump to the rail. Will likely add in an in-line fuel filter and pressure gauge (or sending unit for interior gauge). Need fuel line that is E85 compatible so probably going with Summit's house brand PTFE braided hose. It's about the most cost effective that looks pretty.
#172
Been working on a crazy idea I had to change the final drive in the transmission to something more turbo oriented. Discovered that the Civic Hybrid transmission is similar to ours in some aspects and has a 3.60 final drive vs. the GD's 4.30. So, I bought one and have been working on merging the two.
Cases are very different, but the Civic guts seem to be a bolt in. Last pic is the Civic internals moved over to the GD case.
Cases are very different, but the Civic guts seem to be a bolt in. Last pic is the Civic internals moved over to the GD case.
#173
Been working on a crazy idea I had to change the final drive in the transmission to something more turbo oriented. Discovered that the Civic Hybrid transmission is similar to ours in some aspects and has a 3.60 final drive vs. the GD's 4.30. So, I bought one and have been working on merging the two.
Cases are very different, but the Civic guts seem to be a bolt in. Last pic is the Civic internals moved over to the GD case.
Cases are very different, but the Civic guts seem to be a bolt in. Last pic is the Civic internals moved over to the GD case.
#174
2003-2005. Kind of a short run, but I believe those are the only years of the manual hybrid. I bought a transmission out of a 2004, but I was searching for any within that range. They aren't very common, but also aren't expensive.
#175
Huh, that's very interesting, I've seen that the transmission is very similar to some Civic ones but had no idea you can actually just swap the guts. Since it's already apart, have you considered dropping in an LSD? I think there are a couple of options. Also I don't know if it's a common issue, but I had to replace the input shaft bearings before 200k km (at least indicated) so you could do that as well, they're pretty cheap direct from NTN.
#176
Huh, that's very interesting, I've seen that the transmission is very similar to some Civic ones but had no idea you can actually just swap the guts. Since it's already apart, have you considered dropping in an LSD? I think there are a couple of options. Also I don't know if it's a common issue, but I had to replace the input shaft bearings before 200k km (at least indicated) so you could do that as well, they're pretty cheap direct from NTN.
I have a Quaife differential to install and all of the misc. bearings and seals that are accessible. Direct from NTN? That would have been a good idea! I've just ordered them all from Honda parts suppliers so they were kind of pricy. D'oh!
#177
Yeah I don't really know how actually compatible they are, but I used videos of Civic transmission rebuilds as a guide and everything was completley identical. Of course that's just on the high level, the dimenions could be slightly different somewhere and they'd never work together. Still, economically it would make more sense for Honda to have compatible gearboxes rather than build several different ones for no good reason.
Great that you god the LSD. I kind of considered it since taking everything apart was by far the biggest pain in the ass, but it wasn't really worth it for a low powered beater I thinkl.
The input shaft bearings were NTN 6205/26V16 and SC05B97, about $10 and $15 I think. Didn't touch the other ones since, again, beater.
Great that you god the LSD. I kind of considered it since taking everything apart was by far the biggest pain in the ass, but it wasn't really worth it for a low powered beater I thinkl.
The input shaft bearings were NTN 6205/26V16 and SC05B97, about $10 and $15 I think. Didn't touch the other ones since, again, beater.
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