2007 Fit Sport Auto

187600 miles

bare-bones stock


Driving on the interstate yesterday, doing about 82 I noticed the CEL flashing. At first I thought I had left my blinker on because there was no noticeable stumbling or roughness.

I back off the cruise control and nothing happens. Then as I start a long, slight downgrade the flashing stops. But starts again with the next incline. All the while, the engine performance is slowly getting worse. Eventually, it was flashing full time and running very rough. There was no sudden onset, just a gradual decrease in performance.

I pulled off at the first exit and leeched McDonald's free wi-fi for a quick internet search and it was all the same old thing. Probably a bad coil pack/spark plug. Except I did the coil packs 6 months ago and the plugs (Iridium) less than two years ago.

One other thing that did come up was the possibility of bad gas and I had just topped off the tank with about 3/4 tank of some QuickStop brand and all this started less than 40 miles into the tank at highway speed.

Online advice said to fill up with 91 octane but I had only used 1 gallon of gas so that was no good, otherwise, add octane boost, injector cleaner and/or Drygas and drive the tank close to empty.

I added the octane boost and the injector cleaner and slowly made it back home. By the time I got it home it was still on but not flashing on level or downhill roadway but still flashing on uphill and acceleration.

Around town today it's doing better. It only flashes when the tach goes over about 3000 rpm or while accelerating (really rough) but idles fine.

I'm down to a half tank and the mileage doesn't seem to have suffered for it but I need to make another long highway trip tomorrow. Should I?

Please tell me it's probably the gas and not an AFR sensor. I'm flat broke till the 1st.

 

Continuing driving like this will kill your cat!
Scan your code. It most likely coil again
What the brand name of coil did you use and where you bought them from?
When I went to the junk yard, I found that Duralast brand coil has bad arcing between the coil output terminal (which made flat, not sharp like on Hitachi) and boot spring.

 

At the very least you should get a code scan from your local parts store...