Poor Transition when Changing Gears
#1
Poor Transition when Changing Gears
Hi Everyone,
We have a 2007 Fit Sport automatic transmission that has about 140k miles. We bought it used about 2 years ago. In the last month or so while driving we've noticed that it doesn't seem to be changing gears as smoothly as it previously did. It's hard to describe but it feels like it's slipping/vibrating/jerking a little as I accelerate into different gears. I know next to nothing about cars so I'm sorry for such a vague description. Does that description make sense to anyone? It's due for an inspection so I was planning on getting that and an oil change done on Saturday. I'm thinking of mentioning it to my mechanic but I'm not sure how helpful that description will be. Any thoughts? Thanks.
We have a 2007 Fit Sport automatic transmission that has about 140k miles. We bought it used about 2 years ago. In the last month or so while driving we've noticed that it doesn't seem to be changing gears as smoothly as it previously did. It's hard to describe but it feels like it's slipping/vibrating/jerking a little as I accelerate into different gears. I know next to nothing about cars so I'm sorry for such a vague description. Does that description make sense to anyone? It's due for an inspection so I was planning on getting that and an oil change done on Saturday. I'm thinking of mentioning it to my mechanic but I'm not sure how helpful that description will be. Any thoughts? Thanks.
#4
And, make sure your shop uses Honda DW-1 ATF for the greatest longevity. Other fluids don't last.
In the future, do one drain & fill with DW-1 every 30K miles or three years.
#5
I just did this last week.
Check out my post. I have a 2008 so its similar to your vehicle. If all you want to do is replace the transmission fluid, the it should take you only about an hour.
That said you did say you take your vehicle in for oil changes so maybe you're not comfortable with working on your car. That's OK.
Only thing I would suggest is a complete fluid change like I did and not just replacing the 3 quarts you will get out of the sump.
If your going to get it serviced. The drain/fill - drain/fill approach will cost you more in labor hours and more in atf fluid. It will also get you a less pure product at the end. If ATF hasn't changed in 142k, it's garbage. Blending 3 quarts of new DW-1 with the remaining 4 quarts of garbage is still primarily garbage. You'd have to do it at least 3 - 4 times to get to a decent concentration of new atf to old. That almost wasting 12 quarts for a car that holds a little over 6.
The fluid exchange method burns about 8 quarts and only requires one labor hour at a service shop
That said you did say you take your vehicle in for oil changes so maybe you're not comfortable with working on your car. That's OK.
Only thing I would suggest is a complete fluid change like I did and not just replacing the 3 quarts you will get out of the sump.
If your going to get it serviced. The drain/fill - drain/fill approach will cost you more in labor hours and more in atf fluid. It will also get you a less pure product at the end. If ATF hasn't changed in 142k, it's garbage. Blending 3 quarts of new DW-1 with the remaining 4 quarts of garbage is still primarily garbage. You'd have to do it at least 3 - 4 times to get to a decent concentration of new atf to old. That almost wasting 12 quarts for a car that holds a little over 6.
The fluid exchange method burns about 8 quarts and only requires one labor hour at a service shop
Last edited by forwardrefresh; 04-14-2016 at 09:59 AM.
#6
Thanks everyone. Forwardrefresh, I'm not comfortable working on my car. And I don't really have a place to work on it right now since we live in an apartment building and park in an open public lot. I've changed the oil once with help so I might be able to do that successfully on my own. I hope to learn more about doing my own maintenance once I have a better space to do it.
So my plan will be to take the car in for an inspection and oil change and ask that they also completely replace the transmission fluid, not just the typical 3 quarts or 40%. And I'll try and see what fluid they use. Thanks again.
So my plan will be to take the car in for an inspection and oil change and ask that they also completely replace the transmission fluid, not just the typical 3 quarts or 40%. And I'll try and see what fluid they use. Thanks again.
#7
The fluid type is extremely important. It might be best to buy it yourself and bring it in.
This can make or break your transmission. I would recommend genuine honda atf fluid dw1 only. Any honda dealership will carry this
This can make or break your transmission. I would recommend genuine honda atf fluid dw1 only. Any honda dealership will carry this
#8
I called a Honda dealer and I can buy the transmission fluid from them. And they said if the transmission fluid has never been changed before they don't recommend doing the full exchange. Is that good advice? I'm not planning on getting it serviced by them but if your interested the partial change costs about $100 and the full exchange costs about $200. They charge $120/hour for labor. The fluid costs $8.18/quart. So the plan is to buy the fluid from them and get it done at a local place I've used before. How many quarts should I buy?
#9
I'd go with their recommendation. This is a unique situation and they may have unique requirements. If you're not doing a full exchange you probably only need 3 quarts but 4 would be safer.
Personally I don't understand why a full replacement would be bad but I can't say I'm qualified to say otherwise.
Personally I don't understand why a full replacement would be bad but I can't say I'm qualified to say otherwise.
Last edited by forwardrefresh; 04-15-2016 at 12:27 AM.
#10
You need just over 3 qts per drain and fill. So, buy 10 quarts to do it three times.
Usually a 'full replacement' is done with a 'flush machine' by shops. This can dislodge dirt and clutch chaff which can then clog the orifices in the transmission's valve body.
Usually a 'full replacement' is done with a 'flush machine' by shops. This can dislodge dirt and clutch chaff which can then clog the orifices in the transmission's valve body.
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