AC Problem now it won't start, diagnosis?
#1
AC Problem now it won't start, diagnosis?
I have 2007 Honda Fit Sport, 70k miles.
For the last two weeks or so I have been having a problem with my AC not blowing cold at low speeds or during stop and go driving (if I got above 30 or was driving continuously there was no problem).
Now this morning the car wouldn't start. Lights, blower, and speakers all function fine so not battery. When I turn the key I get a continuous clicking sound but the engine doesn't even try to fire.
My first thought would be the starter went, but is it possible these two symptoms are related? Or am I looking at two distinct problems.
For the last two weeks or so I have been having a problem with my AC not blowing cold at low speeds or during stop and go driving (if I got above 30 or was driving continuously there was no problem).
Now this morning the car wouldn't start. Lights, blower, and speakers all function fine so not battery. When I turn the key I get a continuous clicking sound but the engine doesn't even try to fire.
My first thought would be the starter went, but is it possible these two symptoms are related? Or am I looking at two distinct problems.
#2
The starter clicking is probably a battery problem—either a weak battery, or one that just isn't charged for whatever reason, or maybe a poor connection. The lights and fan and stuff work (at least after a fashion) because they do not draw anywhere near the current that the starter does; the starter tries to turn, but the voltage sags too much and the solenoid clicks off. That said, it is possible that something is wrong with the starter, too, but the battery is usually the first thing to check out. Many parts stores will do a battery test for free—or you could see if a jump start works.
I highly doubt it's related to the air conditioner not working up to snuff. They are two separate issues.
I highly doubt it's related to the air conditioner not working up to snuff. They are two separate issues.
#4
AC/Battery issues
[B]Before you try to start the car, check the battery water levels in all 6 cells. IIt should be forming a slight curve. If it's flat, you're low on water and the battery is not accepting enough of a charge to start the car. Your AC gets affected with a weak battery and a low level of refrigerant. If your battery is over 5 years old, it's time to be aware of starting problems and other electrical "problems" such as dim lights. Once you get the battery taken care of, check your AC refrigerant levels if it doesn't cool very well.
#6
"When I turn the key I get a continuous clicking sound but the engine doesn't even try to fire."
A Classic Oh Shit I got a dead battery sound. Boost it. Get battery checked and replace with OEM one.
A Classic Oh Shit I got a dead battery sound. Boost it. Get battery checked and replace with OEM one.
#8
The first time I ran into this problem I was confused as to what the problem was. I was about to pull the alternator and dissect it, thinking it was an open diode or two. A 20 year dealership mechanic friend happen to stop by and said "it is the fan belt tension". I did not believe him, but at his insistence I got the part. Comparing the part to a new on I could see the problem. There was no noise from the slipping serpentine belt. The alternator just failed to output the proper voltage under load and failed to keep the battery charged. When the repair part is in stock, you know it is a common failure item. The parts guy said he sold 2 to 4 a month and kept 2 in stock.
#9
The first time I ran into this problem I was confused as to what the problem was. I was about to pull the alternator and dissect it, thinking it was an open diode or two. A 20 year dealership mechanic friend happen to stop by and said "it is the fan belt tension". I did not believe him, but at his insistence I got the part. Comparing the part to a new on I could see the problem. There was no noise from the slipping serpentine belt. The alternator just failed to output the proper voltage under load and failed to keep the battery charged. When the repair part is in stock, you know it is a common failure item. The parts guy said he sold 2 to 4 a month and kept 2 in stock.
I saw spun and freewheeling alternator pulley on 89 Camry rebuild alternator due to the pulley nut not been properly tightened, but it did not cause any self evident charging system problems. I noticed it by accident during timing belt change process.
#10
May I ask what car was that and what type of tensioner it used?
I saw spun and freewheeling alternator pulley on 89 Camry rebuild alternator due to the pulley nut not been properly tightened, but it did not cause any self evident charging system problems. I noticed it by accident during timing belt change process.
I saw spun and freewheeling alternator pulley on 89 Camry rebuild alternator due to the pulley nut not been properly tightened, but it did not cause any self evident charging system problems. I noticed it by accident during timing belt change process.
Gates makes some after-market tensioners for some high failure vehicles. Otherwise OEM is probably your only choice. If it is not available after-market then it is a low failure item (or low inventory vehicle) and probably not your problem.
One way to check for a slipping alternator pulley is to check the temperature of the alternator pulley for a reference. Then start the vehicle and run it for 4 or 5 minutes with the headlights and heater fan on full. Shut it off and check the temperature of the pulley again. Use a temperature gun or a WET finger VERY BRIEFLY. You can burn your finger doing this if you are not careful. If the pulley is very hot then it is slipping.
#11
No I think your cranialrectumnitis is malfunctioning...
AC NOT COOLING PROPERLY AND BATTERY IS NOT CHARGING, COMMOND DRIVE BELT IS NOT OPPERATING PROPERLY.
AC NOT COOLING PROPERLY AND BATTERY IS NOT CHARGING, COMMOND DRIVE BELT IS NOT OPPERATING PROPERLY.
#12
Another thing you can do is get yourself a voltage monitor that plugs into the accessory plug (cigarette light plug). I have few around here. You can get very cheap ones at aliexpress.com out of China, or Harbor Freight. For a little more money get a innova one:
With it you can watch the charging voltage as you drive. Plug it in and see what voltage you have with the lights and AC both off and on. Normally we say 13.8 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. The Honda Fit has something called ELD (Electrical Load Detector) that reduces the voltage slightly when it thinks the battery is charged. Because of that "feature" a lower voltage of around 13.4 or 13.5 might be seen after driving for a while.
With it you can watch the charging voltage as you drive. Plug it in and see what voltage you have with the lights and AC both off and on. Normally we say 13.8 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. The Honda Fit has something called ELD (Electrical Load Detector) that reduces the voltage slightly when it thinks the battery is charged. Because of that "feature" a lower voltage of around 13.4 or 13.5 might be seen after driving for a while.
#13
Another thing you can do is get yourself a voltage monitor that plugs into the accessory plug (cigarette light plug). I have few around here. You can get very cheap ones at aliexpress.com out of China, or Harbor Freight. For a little more money get a innova one:
Amazon.com: INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor: Automotive
With it you can watch the charging voltage as you drive. Plug it in and see what voltage you have with the lights and AC both off and on. Normally we say 13.8 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. The Honda Fit has something called ELD (Electrical Load Detector) that reduces the voltage slightly when it thinks the battery is charged. Because of that "feature" a lower voltage of around 13.4 or 13.5 might be seen after driving for a while.
Amazon.com: INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor: Automotive
With it you can watch the charging voltage as you drive. Plug it in and see what voltage you have with the lights and AC both off and on. Normally we say 13.8 to 14.2 is normal charging voltage. The Honda Fit has something called ELD (Electrical Load Detector) that reduces the voltage slightly when it thinks the battery is charged. Because of that "feature" a lower voltage of around 13.4 or 13.5 might be seen after driving for a while.
I bought this exact one and it has served me very well. Best $15 total I've ever spent.
#14
Here is a $5.00 one in red. I have a couple of these around.
Free shipping 12v car circuit tester Automotive voltmeter toyota auto universal diagnostic tools for all cars professional-inPressure & Vacuum Testers from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
Here is an even cheaper one ($3.88). I believe it reads in Green.
1pcs LED Display Cigarette Lighter Electric Voltage Meter For Auto Car Battery Free shipping-in Battery Testers from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
Free shipping 12v car circuit tester Automotive voltmeter toyota auto universal diagnostic tools for all cars professional-inPressure & Vacuum Testers from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
Here is an even cheaper one ($3.88). I believe it reads in Green.
1pcs LED Display Cigarette Lighter Electric Voltage Meter For Auto Car Battery Free shipping-in Battery Testers from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
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