2008 sport front strut replacement
#2
Do a quick inspection for rust, if present, go ahead and buy a can of pb blaster or liquid wrench.
other then that, make sure you ahve a QUALITY allen set for the strut top and sway bar links
Cheap allen keys wont fit perfect and cause major headaches!!
Take your time as well!
When strut is removed, be aware that the cv shaft may be put out of its travel limits and pop out of the transmission. I used old speaker wire to tie mine up a bit while I did my lowering springs on my Fit
other then that, make sure you ahve a QUALITY allen set for the strut top and sway bar links
Cheap allen keys wont fit perfect and cause major headaches!!
Take your time as well!
When strut is removed, be aware that the cv shaft may be put out of its travel limits and pop out of the transmission. I used old speaker wire to tie mine up a bit while I did my lowering springs on my Fit
#4
Make certain your spring compressor is secure and in proper working order. (Especially if you are renting one, which are often abused.) Also make certain the gland nut is secure and the upper strut mount components are in good shape.
#6
I just completed replacing struts and shocks on my Fit Sport with 97k miles on it. Though no leaking, the LH shock had lost it's gas charge. The strut replacement was easier than any I have done before (mostly on Toyota's), given that the spring doesn't need to be compressed much to safely remove and the strut is held on with only three bolts.
Removal of the stabilizer end links was the longest part of the job. They're exposed to water constantly so were very corroded; the Allen insert does not provide much leverage to prevent the stud from turning while removing the nut (and requires the use of a wrench, since otherwise you can't hold the Allen wrench). One of the boots was damaged during removal, so I am replacing both endlinks with new Moog units (which allow using a wrench to secure the stud in the event I need to do this again).
Removal of the stabilizer end links was the longest part of the job. They're exposed to water constantly so were very corroded; the Allen insert does not provide much leverage to prevent the stud from turning while removing the nut (and requires the use of a wrench, since otherwise you can't hold the Allen wrench). One of the boots was damaged during removal, so I am replacing both endlinks with new Moog units (which allow using a wrench to secure the stud in the event I need to do this again).
#7
The Moog end links came in today, so finished the job. As information, they are much beefier than the OEM units and have grease fittings. The original driver's side was damaged on removal and the passenger side was shot.
#8
I'd like to know what a "Moog end link" is.
One of these, perhaps?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
One of these, perhaps?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
#9
I'd like to know what a "Moog end link" is.
One of these, perhaps?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
One of these, perhaps?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-bar-end-links
If you search the Rock Auto catalog, they call them Stabilizer Bar End Links. The MOOG parts are less than $20 USD a side.
We installed them on our '07 about a year ago, they work fine.
#10
So, we're talking about, for example, Part #K80274 on that link?
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