New to Hondas still and the vtec thing. How do you actually engage the vtec? And at what rpm? Can you engage it in every gear? And is it safe to do in a fit being its only a L15 engine? Thanks

 

Depends on which model you have GD or GE. Yes you can engage it all you want in any gear. It is engaged automatically when the engine reaches the correct RPM. On the GD is is between 2500-2700 on the GE is is higher somewhere around 3500.

 

It can be very difficult to engage VTEC, especially in the L15 engine. The process is very complicated and requires the use of at least one calculator.

Sometimes people blow their motors when attempting to hit VTEC for the very first time. And others who do succeed often find that they can't handle the power they've just unleashed, which often ends in destruction as well.

Please be careful when playing with fire.

 

Disregard the sarcasm above lol

If you honestly think vtec is something to worry about, do the common sense thing and look up what it is.

Google shows everything

 

Come on, doomie. This question isn't that far out. There are still plenty of guys, even on this forum, who are too timid to drive the sh*t out of these cars.

 

It's a gd lol and ya I have a family and am making payments on my little gd so I'm timid not gonna lie being honest lol, but it would be nice to know how to work it so not everyone is constantly passing me honking and give m the middle finger for my car accelerating so slow lol.

 

The straight answer to your question is that you can drive the car with confidence. It is a robust and reliable design. You do not have to treat VTEC any differently from any non-VTEC engine. Maintain your oil level (all modern cars consume some oil in the process of normal function).

The last time that I checked, Honda has, over the tears, produced millions of engines with VTEC and have not recorded a single VTEC-related failure.

 

I think my transmission will blow first. I stay on vtec lol

 

Haha yea everybody's right. VTEC isn't dangerous and it basically handles itself. It's just variable valve timing, and most manufacturers' engines have their own variant of variable valve timing nowadays. They just come up with different names for their own versions.

Google "variable valve timing" and all your questions will be answered.

 

Just in case it's not clear, there's nothing in particular you do to activate the VTEC system. The engine computer controls it as part of normal engine operation when the engine is operated at fairly high speeds. So basically you just need to accelerate with the engine revving fairly high, which is how the Fit works best in general.

(In my experience, most of the time people don't get angry because you're a bit sedate in acceleration; rather, they get angry when you are slow after jumping out in front of them. Slightly pokey driving isn't bad, but aggressive slightly pokey driving is. There are limits, of course; driving like an old VW microbus is not a great idea if you aren't in an old VW microbus.)

 

AH not quite there have been several failures of the VTEC solenoid reported in threads on here. Do they count?

 

In my GE I like to approach on ramps by downshifting my Auto to D3 and engaging VTEC as I approach hwy speeds. Also have the rear right window down to hear the HKS.

 

I don't know.


N.B. "reported here" ≠ fact

 

I dont think solenoid failures count. Do you consider a lock solenoid for power locks on a door to be a door failure? or simply know it as a solenoid failure?

I honestly havent had to deal with more then maybe 3 bad vtec solenoids in the last 10 years

 

In answer to your question sir no you have nothing to worry about....especially with the GD because the VTEC engages at a very low rpm(~3000 rpm) compared to other standard vtec engines. More than likely you will switch over without even knowing about it. It's just an economy vtec not the performance variant. Also the GE vtec engages at 5500 rpm.

 

Close but not quite. What you are feeling at 3000 in a GD is the engine coming into the powerband not VTEC. It engages in a GD around 2500. Very easy to check simply hook up a test light to the Vtec solenoid or do like I did and hook up a permanent VTEC light so you can look at it at your leisure.

VTEC light and engagement speeds https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...completed.html

 

Well would you look at that just when you think you are out of the woods look what popped up TODAY. Another VTEC solenoid problem posted here. Not as uncommon as thought.

There are plenty more just like this in this site if you want to look for them to peruse and educate yourself.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...t-problem.html

 

Now from what I understood a while back ago vtec engages in the gd3 at 3500 rpm. Because honestly it would make no sense in ordering a flashpro to change my vtec to 2500rpm. I will check with dsm to get a real answer on vtec engagement on the l15 engine

 

Toretto!!!!!

In all seriousness all Vtec is on the gd3 is both intake valves opening the full amount. When "out of Vtec" one valve opens fully and the other is just barley cracked open. Don't
Expect and kind of NAWZZZZ when your in Vtec bro.

 

Dude did you read the link? It shows you quite clearly that in reality it opens at approx 2500 (the lines on the tach are too small to read clearly).

This subject has been debated to death since 2007 and the very first Fits to hit the streets and in this forum and the conclusion, proved by the installation of a VTEC light, is 2500 or close.

Are you saying all those members that put in a VTEC light and posted their results are lying? Including myself Why would someone lie about that?

No need to wait for a so called expert to do it hook up a test light yourself so you will believe the results. It takes all of 2 minutes to do. Find the VTEC solenoid locate the green/yellow striped striped wire coming out of the bottom of the solenoid.

Wrap the pointed end of the test light with a piece of extra wire about 3 feet long so you can see it outside the hood when the hood is closed.

Scrape the insulation off the solenoid wire and wrap with the extra wire free end.

Tape the end of the test light where you can see it while driving.

Ground the other test light wire.

Get in and drive. The vehicle MUST be moving so there is a signal from the motion sensor you can't do it standing still and revving.

Watch the tach and accelerate and when the light lights up that is the point of VTEC engagement. I have a permanently installed light and I see it everytime I drive and it is the same thing day after day year after year.

If anybody tells you any different than about 2500-2700 for a GD3 they are FLAT OUT WRONG prove it yourself and don't spread the 3500 myth anymore. The extra power you feel at 3500 is the engine going into it's powerband (going up on the cam... google it) NOT VTEC engagement.


If you are feeling particularly lazy you could buy a test light with lead for about 3-4 dollars at a parts store. Find a quiet street. Open your hood. Stick the pointed end of the test light in the green/yellow striped wire. Tape it in place. ground the other end of the test light.

Now the tricky part... with the hood open so you can see the light get someone else to drive or tape the light where you can see the lighted end while sitting in the drivers seat. Now start the car and get it moving ONLY AT A WALKING SPEED. Now either you in the drivers seat or your helper slowly raise the engine RPM WITH THE CAR IN NEUTRAL until the light comes on WHILE THE CAR IS ROLLING SLOWLY. Now watch the light either from inside the car or while walking beside it. The Light will turn on a 2500-2700. Proved it to yourself.