what parts would you like to have available?
#41
I wish I could, but without taking it off and down, it will be hard. basically imagine the top mount as taken from this stock photo and put with the top oem rubber mount(13).
The height is about 1/2(not sure) an inch longer than the rubber mount when together.
I need it as short as possible. The bottom of that mount is against my bag plate, which is pretty much a flat plate. That way I will have enough shock travel.
The height is about 1/2(not sure) an inch longer than the rubber mount when together.
I need it as short as possible. The bottom of that mount is against my bag plate, which is pretty much a flat plate. That way I will have enough shock travel.
#42
itbs is more welding and tube work than i want to get into. would be pretty sweet though. maybe one of the major manufactures that are probably watching this thread will consider it.
what do you mean rear splitter? like the splitter under the rear bumper?
what do you mean rear splitter? like the splitter under the rear bumper?
#43
like the title says, what aftermarket/performance parts would you like to see available that are not currently being produced?
i am a cad/cam programmer and machinist by trade and im looking for my next project. my top 3 ideas are:
1. adjustable cam gear
2. fuel rail
3. "A" arm
depending on the part it would be billet from 7075 aluminum.
what would you guys like to see?
i would love to do a head. i have the necessarily equipment just not the knowledge about heads in general.
looking forward to hearing your ideas.
i am a cad/cam programmer and machinist by trade and im looking for my next project. my top 3 ideas are:
1. adjustable cam gear
2. fuel rail
3. "A" arm
depending on the part it would be billet from 7075 aluminum.
what would you guys like to see?
i would love to do a head. i have the necessarily equipment just not the knowledge about heads in general.
looking forward to hearing your ideas.
fuel rails are readily available; what can yopu offer better?
'A arms' are not particularly much of a market that older civics cannot already do.
Here are sopme suggestions for thought;
1. wheel spacers, evcen tho there are already suppliers for those unusual adapters like 15 mm 4 bolt 4x100 to 5 bolt 114.3 BC. Work tat on your CAD.
oil filter 'cxups;' that don't stick to the old filter and have to be hammered off.
anti sar bar body attachments that allow tightening ion one side and not the other.
Those ought to jkeep you busy for a while.
cheers.
#44
Not sure either of those can be done in billet
But maybe a manifold adapter plate to make use of an existing set of ITB's...
But maybe a manifold adapter plate to make use of an existing set of ITB's...
#45
im going turbo anyway so it would be a little counter productive for me.
if anyone is good at carbon/fiber layup or has access to injection, vacuum molding or large scale 3D printing i can model the rear splitter and make molds. thats a piece o' cake.
Last edited by seeyalaterbye; 05-09-2013 at 02:07 PM.
#48
^That is what most people might do. There is also the stuff from the Toyota 20V 4AG. All kinds of adapter manifolds to drop that onto other things are out there... Usually just to put it onto the 16V, like this https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/1...e-body-adapter
Then convert to a cable throttle...
Then convert to a cable throttle...
#50
Ask and you will receive
This is something I find interesting....
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-25-id-springs
OK... that is officially a dangerous website...
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-it-yourselfer
This is something I find interesting....
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-25-id-springs
OK... that is officially a dangerous website...
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-it-yourselfer
Last edited by TPColgett; 05-09-2013 at 02:44 PM.
#51
Ask and you will receive
This is something I find interesting....
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-25-id-springs
This is something I find interesting....
https://technotoytuning.com/universa...-25-id-springs
i think you just need some of these on the bottom of your springs (may need to find a different size/dia im just guessing)
Item No: INA-545 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing]
Item No: INA-660 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing Washer]
#52
#53
those would work for your binding issue with the spring if they fit.
i think you just need some of these on the bottom of your springs (may need to find a different size/dia im just guessing)
Item No: INA-545 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing]
Item No: INA-660 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing Washer]
i think you just need some of these on the bottom of your springs (may need to find a different size/dia im just guessing)
Item No: INA-545 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing]
Item No: INA-660 [Needle Roller Thrust Bearing Washer]
Also.. speaking of DBW to Cable conversions... TODA RACING - Sport Injection... then maybe with some manifold re port matching...Product Name - OBX Racing Sports... LOLOL Doubt It's worth it without a LOT of other work.
#55
Ok.. Looks like I just need to measure an OD on my spring? I use standard 2.5"ID Swift Coilover springs so.... Can you find the right ones? I'd order TODAY!!!
Also.. speaking of DBW to Cable conversions... TODA RACING - Sport Injection... then maybe with some manifold re port matching...Product Name - OBX Racing Sports... LOLOL Doubt It's worth it without a LOT of other work.
Also.. speaking of DBW to Cable conversions... TODA RACING - Sport Injection... then maybe with some manifold re port matching...Product Name - OBX Racing Sports... LOLOL Doubt It's worth it without a LOT of other work.
either way if it has a taper on the end and the diameter is the same for the circumfrance of the spring these should work and all we need to know is the inner and outer diameter of your spring perch. here are some examples of what i mean:
same dia, tapered end:
expanding dia, non-tapered end:
i would measure your spring perch outer diameter and inner diameter. hopefully its a flat cup. if not there are some tricks to be done.
installation would go:
1. spring perch
2. washer
3. bearing
4. washer
5. spring
the resting surface needs to be flat or the washer will warp and no longer roll.
#57
Coil overs, so same dia, tapered end: And I sourced some already :P See my post ^^
Koyo Torrington NTA-4052 Needle Roller and Cage Thrust Assembly, Open, Steel Cage, Inch, 2-1/2" ID, 3-1/4" OD, 5/64" Width, 5100rpm Maximum Rotational Speed, 34200lbf Static Load Capacity, 5740lbf Dynamic Load Capacity: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scien
Koyo Torrington NTA-4052 Needle Roller and Cage Thrust Assembly, Open, Steel Cage, Inch, 2-1/2" ID, 3-1/4" OD, 5/64" Width, 5100rpm Maximum Rotational Speed, 34200lbf Static Load Capacity, 5740lbf Dynamic Load Capacity: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scien
#58
I should have those, my new springs, rear camber shims, new front brake setup and hopefully my custom 4-2-1 exhaust by mid next week... I'll try to get it all installed, aligned and corner balanced before the 19th for my next event and let ya'll know
#60
Oh TELL me about it... You should read that whole rules section I sent you...
As far as exhaust, we can change ANYTHING after the exhaust ports in the head, AS LONG AS we retain a "high flow cat" within 6" down stream of the OE cats end point... This has caused me NO END of headache to figure out . I'm going to end up usig the Weapon R Race header (cat delete) with a VERY customized Megan 2.25" B pipe and a clamp on Burns Stainless 17" 2.5 pound muffler... Should be FUN Might even register on the sound meter at events now
As far as exhaust, we can change ANYTHING after the exhaust ports in the head, AS LONG AS we retain a "high flow cat" within 6" down stream of the OE cats end point... This has caused me NO END of headache to figure out . I'm going to end up usig the Weapon R Race header (cat delete) with a VERY customized Megan 2.25" B pipe and a clamp on Burns Stainless 17" 2.5 pound muffler... Should be FUN Might even register on the sound meter at events now