I wish I could be of more help, I'm slammed for the foreseeable future and completely caught up in my race car.

Just had to put in a rush order for a new built trans, and getting the cylinder head back on the car when I get it back at the end of this week.

All to try and get the car down the track on June 1st

 

as far as an adjustable cam gear goes i might have hit a snag... i dont have the equipment to broach the key slot through it for the cam. its possible to machine it though.

 

BECAUSE RACE CAR!

But seriously, good luck on your build for the LSR DSM!!!

seeyalaterbye: If you see any other opportunities within that rules set... please let me know! I have reviewed it plenty, but that doesn't mean I've found it all

 

its all good man. good luck at the track.

 

H. Any accessory pulleys and belts of the same type (e.g., V-belt, serpentine) as standard may be used. This allowance applies to accessory pulleys only (e.g., alternator, water pump, power steering
pump, and crankshaft drive pulleys). It does not allow replacement,
modification, or substitution of pulleys, cogs, gears, or belts which
are part of cam, layshaft, or ignition drive or timing systems, etc.
Any crankshaft damper or pulley may be used. SFI-rated dampers
are recommended. Supercharged cars may not change the effective
diameter of any pulley which drives the supercharger.


well that sucks
we could make it look stock hahaha

 

HAHA, see, an adjustable cam gear would be for a different engine built for an entirely different class... Look up "Street Mod"

Lite weigh pulleys though for the Alt and Crank are out there, and after I sort out my exhaust I plan to look into those for a few more found HP.

 

My top parts wanted (besides better prices on exhaust and suspension goodies, its stupid to want over $500 on exhaust) is as follows

---Metal intake chamber, leaving the stock runners, or offering a higher flowing replacement. Keep the assembly 2 piece like stock

---Metal intake MAF sensor tube. Allow 2.5 inch standard end caps so people can buy universla 2.5 piping kits and make their own intake assembly. Easy task, and perhaps find a way to make a MAF harness extension of around 4 inches so people can tuck the sensor away from the heat of the radiator

---Rear Spring tubes. My lowering springs are shorter then stock and when I jack up the vehicle the springs pop off. a rubber coated tube that is about 3 or 4 inches long would solve a lot of drama. I hate lowering inch by inch, would like to avoid getting airbags like ones used to increase towing capacity//vehicle load leveling, as they would interfere with normal spring function over bumpy roads

---Custom rear dogbone bracket and mount that uses the much supported 06-11 civic rear mount. Their dogbones are bigger and you can easily purchase those. Wheel hope is severe in stock form, and opening the market up a bit allows people to attend to that very large issue

 

ahhhhh i c buy any chance you know i can find the part number for my 2012 fit just so i can have extra ones :_) thank u

 

myhondapartsstore.com

Its been accurate for me for honda part numbers for the last 5+ years

 

Interesting thoughts from 13fit... To be honest, I am VERY not happy with my Innovative engine mounts, and as of yet still have not finished modifying the passenger side engine mount to actually work...

 

could do the maf sensor and the dogbone. the intake would be more welding and fab than i would like to do.

im looking for more billet style parts as the reason im doing these projects is to expand my portfolio as i have just opened my own business programming cnc machines for the aerospace industry.

a cup to keep the springs in place would be pretty easy though. ill keep that in mind when i look at the car tonight.

 

now there's an idea! any particular bushings you would like? could always hard mount that b!@#t lol

mounts would be really easy ive actually thought about doing them but i dont really have any reason to as im still on a stock drivetrain. some shiny billet aluminum mounts with some hardcore bushings would be awesome. we need to start by finding the bushings or isolator we would like to use and design the mount around that.

 

Sadly my rules suck about mounts

14.10 J:

"Any engine or transmission mount is allowed provided it attaches
only to the original mounting points, does not relocate the engine/
transmission (other than incidental to changes in compliance material),
and weighs no less than the OE mount. All components between
the engine/transmission and the mounting structure are considered
to be part of the mount assembly."



BUT, if you can make it happen... LOTS of folks would benefit! Wheel hop is AWFUL on this car... And firm mounts DRAMATICALLY change how the car handles... Plus lots of kids like the under hood shiny's

There is NO ONE who makes a replacement for the front lower trans mount on the Manual currently...

Energy Suspension sells "a la carte" bushings...

This is nearly as exciting if not more than camber plates

 

The MAF tube is probably the easiest. I would DEFINITELY shell out 30-40 bucks for a tube that allows normal couplers to be used. 2.5 fits the throttlebody and engine side of stock MAF assembly perfectly. the other (air intake) side has that velocity stack molded into the top of the filter box.


If you could do that bracket dogbone onversion, there would be MANY happy Fit autocrossers and drag racers. I am pretty sure I tore up my stock dogbone quite a bit at the drags. Still managed to pull a 16.3 on a cool windless night!

Come up with some 3D sketches and prices and feel free to PM me info. I am very interested in helping my car out and the rest of the Fit community


I am about 7 months from getting out of the military, then I have access to my dad's kickass aluminum and steel welder. Gotta learn how to work the pedal first, my first few welds penetrated too much

 

Hmmm. I've been trying to find a solution to the upper mount. I have air ride, so currently, the upper mount and bearing is stock, under that is T1R coilover top. Problem is, ITS TOO THICK(roughly 3-4 inches from top of the stock mount to bottom of T1R mount.) I'm looking for a shorter top mount that can also handle camber. The reason for the shorter top is for ride comfort. I'm maxing out the coilover and it gives me a rough ride, now if it was not maxed out, the ride would be a lot smoother and less bouncy.

 

I'm local to you in Seattle if you need another car to look at. It is however a daily so nothing too extreme.

 

man, you guys have some messed up rules. we could make your mounts out of steel so they way the same as the OEM mounts. stainless will polish up nicely hahaha.

after looking at the car, camber plates look like they would take some doing. the struts do not mount with the typical 3 bolt style. im thinking it something like the cusco ones except with camber adjustment. castor is possible too just would have to start modeling it to figure out how.

motor mounts are defiantly on my to do list now. as well as the 2.5" MAF tube. im going to pick up some tube tonight.

 

picking up some tube tonight. it will probbably take a few days to get going on it though (lots of work... not much time to play)

the dogbone is something that i would need to research more as i dont know much about it. from a couple quick google searches it looks very doable.

TIG takes alot of practice. it took me a year straight to be able to produce consistent welds in aluminum. keep practicing

can you post a pic of the setup from inside the wheel well? when you have time of course.

i own a fit. thanks for the offer though. local test subject do come in handy

 

I wish I could, but without taking it off and down, it will be hard. basically imagine the top mount as taken from this stock photo and put with the top oem rubber mount(13).



The height is about 1/2(not sure) an inch longer than the rubber mount when together.

I need it as short as possible. The bottom of that mount is against my bag plate, which is pretty much a flat plate. That way I will have enough shock travel.

 

I would like to see a setup made for itbs and a rear splitter