That would not have helped.

 

So, improper torque don't damage threads. Glad to know that. I know you know all!

 

I never once messed up a VW head... I was making my living by repairing VWs at that point in time and I saw a lot of heads with spark plugs that were seized or had been blown out due to corrosion from the chemical reaction that occurs when anti-seize compound isn't used on spark plugs in aluminum heads... It is the same kind of electrolysis interaction that occurs when you don't use anti-freeze in your coolant system...

 

I don't use a torque wrench on spark plugs either. Spark plugs seat with a crush washer. I go by the feel.

Note: I've been spinning on oil filters since they started selling spin-on oil filters. One day, I decided to use a torque wrench on an oil-and-filter job. When I went in the next time, the filter was massively over-torqued and I had to drive a long screwdriver through it and twist it off. Apparently, my torque wrench was out of calibration. If you are going to use torque wrenches, they have to be calibrated regularly. I work in a driveway, not an auto shop. I have no way of getting these things calibrated as they should be.

Lesson learned? Life sucks and then you run out of beer.

 

There is nothing at all wrong with torquing by "feel", but it takes a lot of repetition to develop that "feel". For the thousand of first timers on the forums who do not have many decades of experience, if the car maker publishes a torque spec. on spark plugs, the beginners would be safer using a relatively new or recently calibrated torque wrench. I have those decades of experience, but still use the torque wrench when there is room to use it.

 

So its OK to use Velveta cheese on threads because no instruction has told you not?

 

Anti-seize compound is cheaper than Velveeta cheese. Find another non-existent problem to save the world from. You obsessed fanatics are all the same. Make yourself feel important with another (real) subject somewhere else.

 

I wonder if it is OK to use Vegemite.

 

It's because of this kind of thing that Honda really doesn't like to sell their cars in Australia.

 

That, and the air pollution from all of those stinky little engines covered in smoking veggie paste.

 

Sputtering symptoms started this week for my 94,000 mile '07 Fit Sport auto.

Knowing there are coil pack and spark plug issues/concerns AND that my local Honda dealer quoted me $960 for the recommended 100K mile service of which they would replace the water pump and adjust the valves and not even provide an oil change reassured me (once again) that going to the dealership for anything other than buying a new car is a total waste for me.

Currently I'm shopping for new coil packs, spark plugs, water pump, thermostat, and possibly a goodie or two since I'm gonna be digging around in there.

 

Do not get carried away with the parts replacement. On the water pump, That has nothing to do with your sputtering or engine misfiring. I would remove the belt and try moving the shaft up and down or side to side. If it doesn't move and it is not leaking, then the pump is OK. While you are at it look at the condition of the belt. Replace it only if it is making noise, has cracks, or looks worn.

Plugs are a good idea at 100K, be sure to verify they are gapped correctly even if they say they are pre-gapped. Put a small spot of anti-seize on the treads of the new plugs without out getting any on the electrode ends. UI think the torque is 13 ft pounds but look it up to be sure. Do not over torque them and they can be easily stripped out of the head.

Coil packs are a maybe. I would only be replacing them if prior replacement of the plugs and a valve adjustment did not fix your engine running problems. Thoroughly look the coil pack over for traces of carbon tracking. Coil packs should last forever but we all know a few do fail. Usually a coil pack failure is due to plugs electrodes being worn and the gap is too large. Replacing the plugs and cleaning the coil packs usually takes care of any ignitions related misfire problems. Obviously if you see a crack or obvious arcing from the pack, replace it.

Valve adjustment takes care of many engine running problems. That is a definite to do at 100K and it will probably take care of your engine running problem. Expect to find the exhaust valves adjusted too tight if it has been a while since they were last adjusted.

Good luck

 

Note that we obsessed fanatics don't have plug blowouts or screwed up threads, or screwed up suspensions, or wheels that rub, or inability to advise owners on proper modifications, or proper maintance, or .... Either.

 

I'm trying to remember, been a long time ago.. I had many VW bugs and a buss in the 60's to 70 years that I worked on my self, rebuilt a couple of engines, etc. I never had any stripped thread problems that I can remember, but I also vaguely remember some advice/warning about using rolled plug threads as opposed to cut threads with the aluminum heads and some plug brands used one or the other... do you remember anything about that?

Thanks,

 

OP here. I've been busy arguing with Honda, so I have not kept up with your esoteric conversation about lubrication of plug threads. Bottom line: Honda did whatever they felt was appropriate when they installed them. The Honda tech said had I brought the car in for EVERY service, they would not have touched the plugs until 100k. I have fastidiously maintained this car, so keep the disdainful comments to a minimum. I'm too busy enjoying life and having fun to spend my free time obsessing over every little spec on this car. Geez, it's a freaking subcompact, not a sportscar.

That said, Honda helped replace the cylinder head assembly. When I went to pick it up, it had developed a ticking noise. The ticking did not go away with proper operating temp. Took it back. Now they say the piston is damaged and they want to replace the entire short block. But they can't visually confirm piston or cylinder damage upon inspection.

My question is, does it make sense that the spark plug ejection could have damaged the piston or cylinder to cause piston slap? I'm becoming suspicious.

 

Also forgot to mention that when I went in to pick it up, there was a 2007 Fit with a coil going out in cylinder #2, same one that blew on mine. Coincidence? I would not be at all surprised if more city people approach the mileage I have put on this car, and we see a recall.

 

If there was air being pulled into the cylinder through the leaking spark plug threads during the intake stroke it could have caused a lean A/F ratio and damaged the cylinder head, piston and rings... Did the check engine light ever come on?

 

I do recall hearing of a problem with rolled threads..I think it was with inserts that were installed in heads the repair blown out spark plugs... I had a spoke thread roller I used at my bike shop that I was told could cause problems but I never had anyone tell me of having a spoke I'd rolled a thread on strip out... I used DT Swiss spokes on custom laced wheels I built for anyone that could afford them.

 

I hate to agree with the most infamous Internet clown (claymore), but it does seem that you, mahout, are losing your grip on reality. You don't seem to remember who your friends are. In this much too long thread, I have always agreed with your point of view which was opposite of "The Savior" who says that antiseize should NEVER be used on spark plugs.


Did you get that? I was agreeing with you based on my own 48 years of experience, but you still choose to quote me in your attacking post above. You appear to have lost your senses and are now arguing with everyone, even those who agree with you. See a doctor.

 

No, check engine light never came on. MPGs were within normal range. No noticeable loss of power, and I drive over mountains to go just about anywhere, so i would notice. No noises until after the 1st repair. I am now thinking maybe the cylinder damage occurred before the spark plug problem, and may have actually caused it. It just was not detectable until the head was fixed. No one seems to have a plausible theory they are willing to put forth, and the Honda techs aren't willing to put in the labor hours to dig down and get the definitive diagnosis.