So my check engine light keeps coming on after 20-40kms of driving after resetting it (By disconnecting of the negative battery terminal). I haven't scanned it yet but I just want to hear what the experienced guys here think.

It first came on when I installed a throttle controller without initializing it, so I thought that was the problem. I took the whole system out, ran without the controller and CEL still came back on. Also remembered that the same day before I installed the ETC, it was my first time to fill up with 94 octane fuel (Been using Shell 91 octane ever since). So I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

And lastly I notice that on my intake, the IAT sensor keeps on coming out halfway. So would the PCM think the car is not getting enough air?

Whenever the CEL comes up, the vehicle still runs fine. No limp mode, no rough idle, no stalling, etc.

I might buy a scan tool, but I just want to hear FitFreak's opinion before proceeding.

Thanks in advance!
JM

 

I give up. And I think I've eliminated the other possible causes.

Ziptied the IAT sensor so it won't come out halfway, took the throttle controller system out. Still the CEL came up just around 34kms after reset.

Would bad gas or too much octane trigger the CEL?

Just waiting for somebody in the local car club to lend me his scan tool to confirm whatever this is.

 

Can't you just take it to a shop/gas station or auto parts store to have your code read?

 

Doubt it's the IAT as would your engine not run lumpy?

Equally, as this car is drive by wire, would you not also have poor feedback through the throttle if the car detects a problem?

With the plethora of possibilities, you need a code reader or as Subie suggests, a garage with one.

 

It is your IAT, the car will run fine without the sensor. Its happened to me, anytime that sensor comes out, it will pop out a CEL. EVERYTIME

 

Sounds like George02 has encountered it before. But I'd still get the code read if it was me...

 

I'm just waiting for a buddy to lend me his scanner because unlike the US, shops here in Canada charge half an hour just to scan the code.

And as I have tried to troubleshoot, I already tied down the IAT and reset the ecu. CEL came back.
Removed the throttle controller completely. CEL came back.

I'll just wait to get it scanned or maybe buy a scanner at Princess Auto. Lol.

 

That was my justification for suggesting the IAT wasn't the cause as you zip tied the IAT sensor in and the CEL came back on. Nevertheless, it is worth investigating more thoroughly.

As a temporary measure you could silicone or self-amalgamating tape the sensor in so it doesn't come out and the seal is good. That would at least eliminate it as if the CEL doesn't come back on then you're in business and you know it is the IAT.

Funny though - on our other car, when the connection to the IAT suffered a break in the cable, the CEL came on and the car had issues idling, and there were drops in power across the rev range. Maybe just a Saab being 'different' in another way I guess.

Don't worry, over here garages can charge you the same for reading codes.
You could always invest in your own - Not a bad way to spend 45 of your hard earned dollars: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CHECK-ENGINE-...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

 

Thanks!
I saw that scanner on Princess Auto and I might buy that just to see what code it's throwing at me. And the reviews are awesome as well as the price compared to the $199 at Canadian Tire.

What made me eliminate the IAT is because I've been running my Fujita SRI since I got the car (A year ago) and I've never had a CEL come up until now.

What's funny is that there are a lot of possibilities.

At first I thought I broke my TPS sensor when I installed the throttle controller but I've read about the symptoms of a bad TPS and there are no signs of those at all.

Keep you guys updated!

 

UPDATE!

Regarding that scanner that was linked, I bought one a little while ago and I was not impressed. It did work, but it cannot tell me what code I had. When I scanned my CEL, it showed me Fault: 1 Pending: 1. Obviously it's only 1 thing wrong, but when I proceeded to check which DTC it is, it showed N/A plus the Fault/Pending.

I guess this works with other vehicles with general DTC's, but not with specific ones. For now I erased the code again, and I will return that scanner and just wait for Canadian Tire to put the $200 one on sale.

 

As far as gas goes it will not make any difference if you use higher than US 87 octane for a US model. For other models outside the US it will make no difference either but I don't know the octane numbers. The Fit was designed to run on US 87 octane and it won't advance timing further to take advantage of higher octane - the PCU is only expecting 87 octane and tunes the engine accordingly.

Cars that are tuned to run US 91 octane can still run on 87 octane (required by law) but the PCU or ECU senses the lower octane and retards timing to account.

 

I was at PA yesterday. They suggested I check with their associated store - Crappy Tire. I did not know that.

 

For US$15 to $20 you can get a bluetooth reader that works with your android or iphone on ebay. Search for "ELM327 OBDII/OBD2 Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scanner"

 

You cannot reset the code alarm by disconnecting the battery connection; it is stored until the OBD 11 is reset. You can purchase an OBD 11 reader/checker from an auto parts store or online. And then check the source of the alarm and reset it yourself but be forewarned if the problem is still there you'll get the code shortly as before.
And its a tool you need anyway.

 

I know I need a scanner, but I'm holding back from buying one because I want to get a Flashpro which has that option to scan/read/erase DTCs as well.

 

Finally got the code pulled!

P2A00 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem

 

Just an update on this:

So shortly after we pulled the code up, I tried cleaning the sensor with some fuel and a soft brush just to get the residue off. Ran the car for 700kms and no CEL. Just got home tonight and it came back with the same code. Tried cleaning it again with the same method, but now I guess the sensor is toast because the car is running rough. So I'm off to the parts store tomorrow to buy a replacement. Can't afford the Denso right now, so I might settle for an NTK (aka NGK).