I'm going to be attempting my first ever brake fluid change soon, and was looking for any advice, lessons learned, gotchas, etc.

I've watched a few YouTube videos (none specific to my car), and I have a Helm manual on the way, so hopefully it will go smoothly, but any advice would be appreciated.

This will be on a 2008 Honda Fit Sport - Manual (USA).

My biggest fear is that I'll somehow screw-up the braking balance of the car (too much forward, or too much in the rear). I don't know how the car regulates how much brake work the front discs do, as compared to the rear drums, but I would imagine that there's a balance towards the front?

Thanks,

-Rob

 

Get a second person if possible, fluid evacuator, 10mm wrench, 8mm wrench, a hose that fits on the brake bleeder's "nipple", and your brake fluid.

Take note of your brake fluid's current level (helps indicate brake pad wear) Suck out the fluid from the master cylinder reserviour, fill the reserviour up (leaving the cap off), have person inside pump up the brakes and hold steady pressure when done.

Open the driver front bleeder first and smoothly pump the brake pedal about 10 times and holding the pedal steady on that final (10th pump) so the bleeder can be closed without adding air into the system. Check fluid level and repeat the same procedure for the pass. front, pass. rear, and driver rear.

If you don't have a second person, get a jar or bottle with enough brake fluid inside it so that the hose stays submerged in the fluid. The reason being is when you come off the brakes air will not be sucked into the system (with the hose submerged in brake fluid).

 

I'm interested in your comment about the current fluid level. I'm at 76K and have not done anything to the brakes (including change pads). The car brakes great - no real difference from new. But..the level in the reservoir is down a bit, and I haven't added any. I do a lot of down-shifting (engine braking), so I'm guessing the brakes are enjoying a bit of extended life. I'm just wondering if it might not be a bad idea to do pads as well.

A lot of the videos I've seen (not specifically for the Fit) have said to bleed the lines in the opposite order than you mention. They say to start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder first (passenger rear) - and work your way closer. Is the Fit different than most cars?

 

I'd definitely take a look at both the inner and outer brake pads for the front brakes since as the brake pad wears the piston in the brake caliper reaches further and further out to compensate for that wear. Which in turn also causes the fluid level to drop in the brake fluid resouviour.

In addition to that, I've also noticed at work is around the 60k to 90k range is usually around the time when front pads are in need of replacement on most Hondas. This of course varies on driver and driving conditions but is a reasonable ball park.

I personally replaced my OEM front pads (and rotors) at 58,6xx miles and still had a good 4 to 5mm worth of friction material left on my pads (new factory pads are about 10mm thick).

The only reason I mentioned starting in that particular method is due to it being the bleeding sequence that Honda's recommended bleed sequence for the Fit (as stated in the service manual). Neither way is technically "wrong" in my honest opinion.

 

If you use the 2 person method, you may want to stick a few hockey pucks or a piece of wood under the brake pedal. The reason being is that the master cylinder bore tends to become porous where the seals don't usually contact. This in turn tears those seals a new one and makes your master cylinder incapable of creating a reasonable amount of brake pressure (ie no brakes!)

Not sure if this is the case for our Hondas but I ran into the master seal-destruction issue on a Taurus and I could see the remnants of the master cylinder seals coming out the bleeder valves. Found out later that a block of wood would've prevented that so I always do it now.

 

^^ X2 to the block of wood under the pedal.

Just don't forget to take it out when you go for a testdrive... <FACEPALM>

 

Yes Rob, you are correct. Brake fhid changing or bleeding is an easy way to screw up your Fit but taking care and not hurrying can get great results.
You don't say how many miles on on your 08 but I'm guessing 40,000; in that time you should not need to change brake fluid. But if you insist:
You'll need at least a quart of fresh brake fluid OF THE BEST GRADE if you do. The best sign of needing new fluid or bleeding is a mushy pedal or pedal geeting close to the floorboard. usually the low pedal is a sign of worn out brake pads or rear shoes. And yes when changing pads or drums it is a good thing to bleed the brakes afterward then as well. Its not absolutely necessary.
And this is one instance where the Honda 'brand' is not a waste of money.
Most brake fluids are good for over 100,000 miles unless you subject them to unusuaslly hard work, like track days, or you leave the reservoir cap off a log time. Brake fluids do accumulate water and water does deteriorate fluids so they get compressible, which is not a good thing for braking. . And avoid silicone brake fluids unless Honda specifically recommends one. (the proportioning valve seal didn't like it a while ago and cost us a race)
The order of bleeding brakers is LF, RF, RR, and LR looking toward the front of the car from behind the car. (not all cars have the same sequence BTW). Its easier for 2 people to bleed the brakes, one pumping the brake, the other opening and closing the bleed valve on the brake caliper. Unless you find strange color or air in the drained fluid, one lowering of the reservoir from full to near but not dry empty per wheel is enough. Also, connect a clear small diameter tube, about 1/4", to the drain valve nipple (make sure it fits tight - no leaks) and run it to drain under under the fluid level in the catch vessel so if the 'driver' lifts the brake pedal with the bleed valve open you don't suck air into the caliper. its not a waste to use fresh fluid in the drain catch so the end of the drain tube is under the level of fluid. Make sure it stays that way.You will then have to flush the fluid a lot more than you'd like too. And it may require another bleeding after driving a few miles. Its not that easy to get air out of the caliper chamber. Thats why the 'driver' needs to communicate well with the 'bleeder' to ensure the bleed valve is shut before letting the brake pedal lift. THe bleeder calls the action and driver repeats the step. The sequence is push brake pedal firmly but not too hard, open bleed valve, close valve, release the pedal. Check reservoir level before next sequence and refill if necessary. And the 'bleeder' needs to check the drained fluid for air oroff color.
Do not suck the brake fluid from the reservoir in our opinion; thats just too likely to get air in the system. Instead keep a eye on the brake fluid in the reservoir and as you bleed the brakes in order do not let the reservoir get close to empty. It usually takes a couple of pumps to bleed the reservoir to nearly but not completely dry. The ;'driver;' needs to check the hardness of the pedal when the brake on each wheel is finished; any softness in pedal movement is likely indicative of air in the lines.
And BTW use 8mm, 10mm wrenches, preferrably closed end ones. adjustable wrenches are not advisable; you want definite action, not approximate opening and closing bleed valves. And don't yank on them either, they will break off and you don't want to think about the cost to extract and replace them - firm and steady, not hard and quick is the words.
Last but not least if possible have your other have experience with bleeding/excanging barke fluid. Its tedious efforts that work, not some quickie process.
Make sure you pump the brakes while sitting still before starting the car to be sure the brakes are 'hard' before driving. /If you don't do that you will find yourself frantically pumping the brake pedal ass you try to stop. Same as when you change pads or shoes.
And for those of you tracking your Fit you may wish to start with your brake fluid in the reservoir not far above the low fluid sensor so you get early warning if needed.
And good luck, its not hard just needs careful attention.

 

Mahout said:

FWIW: Honda recommends a 3 year replacement interval on Brake Fluid, regardless of mileage. So, an '08 is due. But, not overdue.

With today's ABS systems, fresh fluid is cheap insurance that helps the brake system remain healthy.

I'm using Honda OE fluid, 1. because it is reasonably priced from the online Honda retailers, and 2. because of the chance that other brands MIGHT lack something special that promotes long-life in the seals (anybody remember the issue that Toyota and Honda had with cars serviced with "regular" brake fluid? I think about a year ago...)

PS: I use TWO 12-oz containers of Honda fluid to flush brake systems, and ONE container for the MT clutch.

 

Its called DIE, dealer income enhancement

 

Seriously though, the Honda BF is reasonably priced IMHO.

 

a ? here...is Prestone synthetic brake fluid ok to use, or should i only use Honda's product?
Michel

 

ahhhh....obviously the brake fluid had Never been changed. Instead of using a wrench to loosen the bolts first I used a ratchet , then the wrench. This results in less of a chance of stripping the nipples. Good luck

 

Just went through the bleeding process, twice

I was lucky and got away with a regular wrench, though the rear ones were very difficul to fit it in between the caliper and the hose. A socket or the special flare nut wrench would be better I suppose.

As for the fluid, I checked the service manual and it says this:
But they say this about everything. I had a bottle of DOT4 though so that's what went in. DOT3/4 are compatible, DOT5 isn't.