+1

And like MNfit said, if you plan to AutoX, who wants to be in a class where they are an insurmountable amount of time behind the other cars? The class for the Fit's GD or GE is STF. You can download the SCCA 2012 rules from there site or at the following link http://www.scca.com/assets/2012_Solo...ry_reduced.pdf

Section 14 covers the allowable mods for ST class cars, and if it were me with $300 burning a hole in my pocket, and the eventual goal of Autocross, I would use the allowable mods as a road map

So far that plan and the advice of some senior members on this forum has worked great for me!

 

That kind of money will be available to me once I come back from Germany. Until then, I'm making my Fit more fun to drive

When I come back, I will be getting a Turbo kit.

When I get a REAL job with my degree, I will be putting a new engine in it because I want to try something not many people have, which is to say, putting in a German made engine into a Japanese made car.

 

if your end goal is to swap the motor why waist/spend money on turboing the stock motor? You seem like your kind of all over the place with what you want to do with your car. You should really decide what direction you want to go with the Fit and put money to that end. I wish I had done that, I could have saved about $5K-$6k.

 

Yup^

Measure twice, cut once.

 

A lot of people here seem to be misunderstanding my intentions with my Fit. Let me clear the air. This thread was for me to gain ideas in an area I have little knowledge of. I don't need info on the best parts to buy for the Fit. I need info on the cheapest and most fun. Also, people are thinking that I want to turbo, and then swap an engine in later, which will cost a lot of money. That's the wonderful thing about getting a higher degree! I can do both!

See, I LOVE my Fit, like, seriously love it. I think it looks great, drives great and is a total contender for one of the best hatchbacks made since the original golf. (subjective opinion, I know). But here's what I want to do with my car...

I want to keep the engine the same, but squeeze out everything it's got. Making my fit as stock as possible, but as fast as possible, trying to preserve it's natural "fun-ness". Then, once that process is done and there's no where for my Fit to go but down, I'm going to swap the engine and keep it going. YES, it's expensive, but that's how much I love this little car. I'm all about cheapness now, so i can be frivolous later haha!

Call be crazy or stupid or whatever you wish. I started this thread to gain ideas for the now, not the later. The later is so far off, I can barely see it. I'm still in school for 6 more years (PhD's suck ass hahaha.) minimum, maybe more if I want to get a double degree. But all this, all the schooling and tooling around now is so I can be rewarded later with what I want.

I'm not interested in what you think my goals are, and spelling them out for everyone is uninteresting and boring, except for me. So, please. Keep the discussion to the OP, and if you have a mod that you like that was cheaper than $300, list it here!

 

We are just trying to give you helpful suggestions on your end path. I boosted my Auto L15 engine. It was a blast but after I took the Auto L15 about as far as I could I wanted more. That is when I did the K swap.As for a good cheap mod I would suggest the the Progress rear swap bar. It will take alot of the body roll out of the car.

 

So if you don't care to outline your goals.. why post a thread asking about mods and advice?

Also advice is not always that which you agree with or want to hear. Try and take it from people who have already "been there/done that" instead of being pissy.

Getting a PhD, while commendable, does not automatically land you a lucrative career. Even if it does, you are going to sink an easy 5 figures in this at a time when you will have to start paying off your loans and thinking about buying a house or getting an apartment. Not accounting for other costs of life, and god forbid any medical issues that come up over such a protracted time frame.

You will need a vehicle to daily drive as what you are proposing will be a year or two in the making and the modifications required are not reversible.



What's more:

Putting an Audi A4 1.8 or 2.0 into a Fit is definitely beyond your ability if we even have to have this discussion.

This thread will join the multitude of others where someone came in with these lofty and expensive plans that are not grounded in reality.

Do you think the Block and trans will fit between the frame rails? Do you think they will fit between the radiator support and the firewall?

Let alone allow for manifolds, downpipe, heater core hoses, etc?

Who are you going to have make the CV shafts to go to the wheel hubs?

Will the diff even line up at an angle that would allow the cv shafts to run through to the Fits hub location?

Who is going to make your custom wheel hubs? What changes will this require to your suspension?

How low will the Audi oil sump sit? Will the combined height of the sump/deck/cylinder head let you close the hood and be able to go over speed bumps?

There is so much more involved in this then just saying I wanna put a german motor in a japanese car it is entirely laughable given the context of your posts.

Are you going to run a racepak dash and a MoTeC/AEM/Haltech standalone? What will you do for a vehicle speed sensor? Your ABS system?

With that I'm done with this thread.

 

 

Ugh yeah last I checked, the post asked if anyone could suggest mods for about $300. Not advice on vehicle goals or financial management. If that was the case it would have been asked. Nearly every reply in this thread so far has been about the two unasked questions. That marks the end of all discussion not directly answering the asked question.

With that being said, Corey, you already know I've sent you some answers to your question.

 

Derp! That's point of TRYING! I'm not saying It can be done, I'm saying I want to try to make it work. I'm fully aware of the huge undertaking it will be, but that's why I am working where I am, so I can get help with the process. I have friends in machine shops and performance shops, otherwise I wouldn't even dream of something like this.

And why the hell can't I put any engine into any car? The engine is either smaller than (1.8) or the same size as (2.0) a K engine. So, why wouldn't it be possible? There's a horizontally mounted TT engine the is made for the front wheel drive TT's, so why couldn't that be mounted to my horizontally mounted, FF Fit? Have you tried it yet? You obviously know a lot about mechanics, so instead of shitting on my goals and aspirations, why don't you help me?

Thumper's rule.

As for the wonderful financial advice you've given me, which I heartily thank you for btw, I think I can manage on my own. So far, I've only accumulated $5,000 in debt from Under graduate schooling, and if I play my hand correctly, I could get to go to Grad school for virtually no cost. My finances are in a PERFECT spot to undertake this lofty achievement.

My goals were literally just outlined in the post you quoted. I want to squeeze out everything I can from the L15, then when it can give me no more, I'm going to spend the time and effort to put a German engine into the little Japanese econobox.

As stated in the above post, which you quoted, I don't need advice in any area other than what mods are available for the Fit for under $300. People have given me some good ideas so far, and I'm going to run with them.

Last thing, if you're such a good mechanic and have all this knowledge why do you insist to bring my dreams to reality? I've told you I know the cost and effort required, so instead of saying "NO IT'S COMPLETELY IMPOSSIBLE!" you should be saying: "I have a lot of talent in this area and can help guide people like him in the right direction."

Rant over

 

I figure reading would've been covered by the time you got to the Undergrad level, but apparently you missed this portion:

Those were some hints.

When determining mods, and given $300 as the operating figure it pays dividends to let us know what the overall long term goal will be.

Hence my post. That doesn't even cover half of what will need to be done. That was merely a hint.

Also, this Audi swap won't happen. I'll put $5 bucks on it, you can hold me to this.

Yea sure, "anything is possible" when it comes to modifications.

You could make your Fit out to a mid-ship mounted Turbo 496 Chevy feeding a Haldex AWD through a sequential dog-box trans in a 25.x certified chassis with enough time and money.

Saying/speculating and doing are two different things. Please look at the questions I posted, go find a junk yard longblock and trans and start to measure things. You'll then get where I am coming from.

Also, displacement 1.8-2.0 is swept area volume. The physical size of the block, the location of mounts, bosses, sensors, hoses, piping, cables and everything else are not the same just because it happens to be a 2.0.

The 4G63 is a 2.0. The 4B11 is a 2.0, the SR20 is a 2.0. The M9R? 1530A? N20? Are they all the same physical size? Are there transaxles all the same size? Do they all locate the diff in the same spot with relation to the block?

Hell no.

Which is where all these questions come from:
That is why this sort of short-sightedness is asinine. You have made far too many assumptions and got pissed when reality didn't turn out that way and then got mad at me.

So you would potentially have to "front-half" the car, or in laymans terms: cut off everything from the firewall forward, and of all the more radical builds in the Fit world over the years.. this would be a first.

The car would also be very difficult to insure and make legal afterwards. So what happens after those years of time and effort and money, when you go in for certs and registration with a grumpy bureaucrat and they tell you your SOL and they tell you it cannot go back on the road.

This process is not reversible and you won't know if it's going to get approved till after you've finished. Even then getting the DOT approval, does not make it street legal.

It will at that point fall under Custom Vehicle registration, and they may not give you a VIN if you haven't gone to an approved chassis builder and even then he will have to dot all the i's and cross all the t's.

None of these things have you even considered.

 

EdLz1.jpg&size=400x1000

 

I'm still going to try. Maybe not with the aforementioned engine. But I will definitely try. And, if it turns out it doesn't work, then poo on me. I still think with enough work, I could pull it off, and I want to try it no matter what. That's my goal

 

Or, what If I wanted to just put a Fit body onto a TT chassis? Kind of like the Bugster model with a Volkswagen beetle body on a Porsche Boxter chassis? It could be the Fit-T, or T-Fit, or FitT!

Look, You are right. There is a shit load of stuff to do to try and make an Audi swap possible. I KNOW the L15 is one of the thinnest and tallest designed engines out there, and it's therefore difficult to find an equally skinny and tall engine to fit into the engine bay which was designed around the engine.

I didn't mean to get mad, it just sucks hearing people say: "it's not possible." because I've heard it a lot. I just have some crazy ideas sometimes. For instance, I once thought it would be a great idea to try and make a heat shield out of card board and aluminum duct wrap from Home depot. Did it work? Fuck no! haha, but I really tried that is really what matters to me. This project I'm embarking on is in no way in the near future. Maybe, MAYBE 20 years from now. Once my fit has given all it can, I'll try this out.

Who knows, maybe by that time Audi or BMW will create a 1.5L turbo engine for, say, an A-4 or 1-series, and I can use one of those.

My point is, saying "it's not possible" in the car world should be outlawed. If that was the case, the Veyron would never have gotten built. Nor the Stratos, the Miura, or even the ZR1. I don't think anything is impossible, just really really hard to do. And I'm willing to put the work in. I may be mistaken on JUST how much work needs to be done, but as with the heat shield, I will definitely try my hardest.

 

May I ask why you chose the Audi motor in particular? Just curious. It's got to be more than just because you work at Audi I hope?

 

It's relatively cheap, about the same as a K. It's already got a turbo on it, and a very well designed one at that. They crammed the thing as close to the exhaust as possible to reduce lag as much as possible. And, I've not seen anyone attempting to put one on, so yea hahaha.

I mean, ANY 1.8-2.0L engine that isn't a K would work for me. So, if you know of one that has been used before, please let me know and I'll gladly try that instead! hahaha I dunno, I just really like the Audi engines, probably from my German heritage. :P

 

Humoring the idea of the Audi 1.8... and as much as I tend to recommend Borg Warner's turbomachinery.. the K03 is by no means "very-well designed"

Its smaller on the compressor side than most of the GT25s that end up on 1.5L Fits.

The K04 is the absolute smallest I would go with, and even then keep the boost down. You can see this as soon as you plot the stock VE and redline of the L15A1 and A7 on the map.

See for yourself:


Correcting volume to massflow at "standard conditions" for user-friendliness...

Cubic Meters per second multiplied by 162.04 will give you roughly the flow in Pounds per Minute.

With a turbine scroll case and wheel that small, a motor of 10.4:1 compression and a small cam you will have a high BSFC.

You would be better off with a T3 footprint BorgWarner S200sx with anything in the 56-59mm Inducer range for compressors in a .70A/R Turbine Scroll case and the 74/64 turbine wheel.

There is a .55A/R T3 that was discontinued if you can find it, and a very common and popular .55A/R Mitsu "TD05H" style turbine housing with a 38mm internal gate.

I personally had an S200sx (59/81 ETT Compressor) with the 74/64 turbine wheel in multiple turbine housings on a 2.0L with excellent results..

With the small TD05H housing it had response comparable to a MHI 18G turbo on the 4G63T's stock 256/256 cams, and far more flow at higher efficiency.

That same S200sx on a big cam (274/280) in the biggest BW Airwerks T4 housing, a divided .91A/R I was able to max out the compressor at 67lbs/min @ 37-38psi on pump and water/meth.

It pulled strong through 9250 where those cams started to fall off.

Might as well get rid of the troublesome stock snail while you have it out. The K03/04s are expensive as well. If you do intend to use it have it rebuilt, you'll likely find axial shaft play if the previous owner had considerable miles or ever turned up the boost.

Just food for thought if you are contemplating a turbo Audi motor. FWIW I also have German ancestry.

 

What do you have against the K? There are parts out there to do the K swap. Throw a turbo on a stock K and you can make 500whp all day

 

I don't have anything against the K. I Love the K hahaha. It works very very well for the people who swap them in. However, I prefer to be different than powerful, I guess hahaha. I just like the idea of having an engine that isn't supposed to be there. Kind of like how the Stratos had the Dino V6, people looked at it and were like: "What?" or, when Noble put the V8 from a Volvo SUV into the m600....What? hahaha I love that concept and I want to incorporate it into the Fit!

 

For $300, you should be able to add audio controls to your steering wheel. See this thread. Because the audio controls don't work with the stock headunit, you'll need to add in your own third-party headunit, but that could give you some goodies such as ipod connectivity, bluetooth, hd radio, usb connectivity, etc. I bought the controls and steeringwheel subharness for $200 from japanparts.com and am waiting to get the headunit to start the project.