Hey guys,

I'm no mechanic and don't have tools to do things myself. I've always had my oil changed at the dealership and other car shops such as Jiffylube. The last major maintenance I had was when my car hit 50k (quite pricey). I havent had a major check-up yet, and I'm at about 110k. BUT I have been getting my oil changed at about every 3,000-5,000 miles. I was thinking about going into the dealership and have them do another maintenance check. So I have 2 Q's:

- 1) Do I need to get another major maintenance check at 110k, if I've been routinely getting oil changed and had no problems?

- 2) Is there any other maintenance check that is essential to keeping my Fit healthy and thriving for a long time?

All advice, thoughts and experience is welcomed.

thanks,
hondafitgow

 

You'll need new spark plugs and while you're at it, you might as well get new coil packs as well. You should also get all new fluids (coolant, trans fluid, oil).

Otherwise, you should be good to go. And no, you won't need a check at 110k if you do all that now.

 

Replace spark plugs (every 105k miles, no go on coil packs (MSRP is 91.27 from a dealer, 66.81+shipping from Bernardi parts) those should only be replaced as necessary...

Have valves adjusted every 45k to 60k depend on driving habits

Engine coolant every 5 year/60k which ever first.

Brake fluid every 3 years/36k miles.

If auto trans, drain and fill every 5 years/60k miles then every 2.5 years/30k after.

Manual trans is 5 year/60k if I remember right.

Engine air filter and cabin air filter is once a year or 15k.

And inspect belts, brakes, boots, bushings for general wear and tear; replacing as necessary.

Hopefully the folks over at Jiffy Lube are making notes of what type of service the maintenance minder indicates. This is system that keeps track of what type of maintenance the vehicle needs because changing the oil every 3 to 5k miles is a bit frequent. Especially in something that Honda supplies a synthetic blend for when in for a dealer oil change (not all dealers use Honda's supplied oil just for the record).

 

I think Pigs Would Fly before THAT ever happened at a Jiffy Lube.


As an owner, you should do that yourself by accessing the oil life reading, then press again to see what service codes are coming up. Then <GASP> you would have to WRITE THEM DOWN on a piece of paper!

(That's what we do, anyway)

Once the MM is reset, you will have lost the MM prompts.


+++++++++


hondafitgow, prepare for a shock. Our dealer just recommended $1000 of "routine preventative maintenance" on our 100K mile CR-V. Luckily, I'm going to do it all myself for about $150 in parts.

 

Driving habits not mentioned but important in determining time between service.
Salt air and volcanic dust could be a major factor in air filter changes.
I'm still amazed at the trust Honda and owners put in automated oil change by computer, hopefully I can learn how it works and do the same.

 

thanks mhadden, I'm going to get my fluids refilled, also I'm already at 110k

thanks Hootie! How do I know if I need new coils? (thanks for the tip I will buy it online because I recall wanting something at dealership and it was way overpriced!)

Thanks carbuff2. That's reassuring that Jiffy does a good job and takes pride in their work. I hope they are like that here because I was always shocked during one incident: I went to get an oil change after 6k miles and then asked how long it would be, they told me 15 to 30 min, I said ok, then no more than "3 min" they said my car was ready . I was always puzzled about that incident and my gf was even shocked because it never was that fast before.

LOL true, I think volcanic dust would be a major factor but I live on Oahu (no more volcano's). But yes the salt air is another big factor.

 

I wouldn't say Jiffy Lube does a good job or takes pride in their work.
Jiffy Lube Scam Caught on Tape! - YouTube

Three minutes is really fast for an oil change, maybe even impossible, especially if that includes the time spent bringing the car in and out of the work bay.

 

Somehow I lost my SARCASM smiley.

Jiffy Lube is all about getting you out the door with the most profit.


Do It Yourself, or at least READ THE CODES so that you know what the CAR is asking for.

 

You're welcome.

Typically, the vehicle will develop a misfire whenever the coil goes bad and kick a Diagnostic Trouble Code causing the check engine light to come on (and flash if bad enough misfire). Usually in a 4 cylnder's case the code(s) set are along the lines of P0300 (random misfire), P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (Cylinder 2 misfire), P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire), P0304 (Cylinder 4 misfire).

Mind you, just because one or a combination of those codes come on doesn't mean that the coil pack itself is bad. Could be spark plugs, plug wires, bad injectors, etc.

However if you have a misfire on cylinder 1 for example... you can trade coils with another cylinder (for this example cylinder #4), run the car and see if the code then pops up on the cylinder that you traded with. If it does, the coil is usually bad! If it doesn't, well more testing has to be done.

^ LOL Sadly this is true, most quick lube places really don't give a flip outside of making a good, quick buck.

Before I moved over to the service department of a dealership, I worked at a quick lube place to at least get my feet wet with some sort of auto place on my resume. Depending on the vehicle's oil capacity and oil choice (certain oils were in guns) we could get cars in and out QUICK since we had a dedicated guy in the "pit" draining and one working the hood of the car up top.

In the case of a GD3, it could easily be done in 5 minutes start to finish no problem since it only takes 3.8 quarts of oil and the oil filter is easily accessible. 3 would be kinda pushing it; the oil cap would have to be off, the drain plug pulled literally right after as the car was shut down, and the new oil filter was being put on as the oil was of course draining.

I agree with you on getting the codes. Great way to have an idea of what's going on; though, its a shame how autoparts store talk people into buying parts that "seem" relevant to that code even when they aren't the cause.

 

Re Serpentine Belt:

Not that I can even see the darn thing, but what am I looking for when I inspect it? Cracks? That's it?

Thanks!

 

Cracks and missing ribs. on the inside section of the belt. Obviously any cracks on the outside (smooth) side of the belt should be an indication to change it.

 

At 100-110K coming in without having any history on the vehicle...
Oil change with OEM filter obviously, recommended synthetic, but that's what I always use in everything.
Check engine air filter, if it's dirty, replace it. Being a Jiffy Lube customer, it's likely very dirty, or a cheap paper aftermarket one that lets dust in. I'd use an OEM or quality aftermarket if you have a CAI. If you don't think the cabin has ever been replaced, or it's been a while, ask them to pull it and let you see it. Brand new, they are as white as copy paper, so if it's dark grey, or full of outside debris, it's time for a new one. Remember, you breathe that crap.
Tire rotation depending on tread depths/tire wear. Can be done at home if you want to put in the effort. Much easier with air tools and a lift. :]
Alignment if you haven't had one in ~20K miles. Your tires will last loner, it'll ride better, etc. Might be recommended along with some front end work, I wouldn't be surprised if some of your front end bushings are becoming worn out. Sway bar end links like to slip and leak grease at around 120K and are sold with the sway bar bushings as well.
Check shocks for leaks, even if it's only seeping, I'd replace both on that axle. We always sell them in pairs so you don't have one new and one old giving you a wonky ride. Don't be surprised if the dealer recommends 2 or 4, despite condition, many of them recommend them based on mileage, even if they aren't leaking or seeping, you should see a ride quality improvement from them. The rears can be done yourself at home no problem, fronts as well if you have tools, but if you let the dealer do it, you can have the alignment done at the same time to take care of it.
Recommended to 'inspect valve clearance' at 105-110K, which is just listening to the motor run, if it ticks, sell it. Being me, I'd recommend it every 20-40K, but it only costs me like $10 for the gasket and a few minutes of my time.
Spark plugs for sure with your mileage, OEM definitely. Should be $8-12 a piece, like .5 hrs labor, or do it yourself. If you got coils for cheap, I'd suggest doing them now to ensure you have strong spark and no risk of one going out soon. However, seeing as your cost is like $60/piece or something, I'd just say wit until one of them goes out and do all 4 at that time. Just do them yourself, making sure ALL your connections are FULLY set, or you'll have arcing, risking shocking the living ghost out of yourself if you happen to get too close. Very painful for most people, can be harmful.
Transmission fluid for sure, I don't care when it was done or "done" at Jiffy Lube. If they actually did it, they didn't use OEM fluid. I'd pay extra to have the entire system flushed out as well. The dealers have a pump/heater that pumps super hot, clean fluid through the ATF cooler to clean it out and the fluid in the trans is replaced, driven, and replaced again to get it all. After that, just get a regular ATF fluid change every 30K, less if you drive it hard, in hills, or in lots of stop and go traffic.

Your estimate from the dealer is going to be a lot, but it should be free to have them look the whole vehicle over VERY well and tell you everything you need or will need soon. MOST of it can be done by you or friends in the driveway, and some stuff if best left to the dealer due to safety (front shocks, VatoZone spring compressors can fail and hurt you really badly) and due to tools (calibrated, laser guided alignment rack at the dealer, VS eye balls and string in your garage, taking forever).
Just remember, although you may be spending a lot of time, money, or both, it is an investment in your reliable and economical mode of transportation, and much cheaper than buying a new car every 5 years or leasing them and never owning.

Edit: I hope this was all helpful and not just overwhelming. If you'd like, I can get you prices on what you will pay for parts/labor on anything here at your standard Honda dealership, and what you might be able to bargain on to save a bit here and there.

 

Anybody figured out cost of doing yourself vs. dealer? for those things you can do without special equipment.

Maintenance Schedule for Normal Conditions - for Service Reminder System non-applicable EU countries

Follow the normal conditions maintenance schedule if the severe driving conditions specified in the severe conditions maintenance schedule do not apply.
Service at the indicated distance or time whichever comes first
km x 1,000

Replace engine oil
Replace engine oil filter
Replace air cleaner element
Every 60,000 km (37,500 miles)
Inspect valve clearance
Every 100,000 km (62,500 miles)
Replace fuel filter
Replace spark plugs
Every 120,000 km (75,000 miles)
Inspect drive belt
Look for cracks and damage, then check the position of the drive belt auto-tensioner indicator.
Inspect idle speed
Replace engine coolant
Use genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2.
At 200,000 km (120,000 miles) or 10 years, then every 100,000 km (60,000 miles) or 5 years

Replace Manual Transmission Fluid M/T
i-SHIFT
Use genuine Honda MTF.
Every 120,000 km (75,000 miles) or 8 years

Check front and rear brakes Check the brake pad and disc thickness. Check for damage.
Check the calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness.

Replace brake fluid

• Use only DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. We recommend genuine Honda Brake Fluid.
• Check the brake fluid level is between upper and lower marks on the reservoir.

Every 3 years
Check parking brake adjustment
Check the parking brake operation.

Replace dust and pollen filter

• If the vehicle is driven mostly in areas that have high concentrations of dust, pollen, or soot in the air, replace every 20,000 km (12,500 miles) or 1 year.
• Replace the filter whenever airflow from the heating and air conditioning system is less than normal.
• Check lights alignment

Check the position of the headlights
Test drive (noise, stability, dashboard operation)
Check expiration date for TRK (Temporary Repair Kit) bottle (if equipped)
Service at the indicated distance or time whichever comes first

Inspect vehicle corrosion: refer to the Body Repair Manual

• External Paintwork and Panel Corrosion Check
• Under Body Corrosion Check

Every year

Visually inspect the following items:

• Check for correct installation and position, check for cracks, deterioration, rust, and leaks.
• Check tightness of screws, nuts, and joints. If necessary, retighten.

Tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots

• Check steering linkage.
• Check the boot for damage and leaking grease.

Suspension components

• Check the bolts for tightness.
• Check all dust covers for deterioration and damage.

Driveshaft boots

• Check the boot and boot band for cracks.
• Check boots for leaking grease.

Brake hoses and lines (including ABS/VSA lines)
Check the master cylinder and ABS/VSA modulator- control unit and leakage.
All fluid levels and condition of fluids

Check levels and check for leaks. If necessary, add.

• Engine coolant
• MTF
• M/T
• i-SHIFT
• Brake fluid
• Clutch fluid M/T , i-SHIFT
• Windshield washer fluid

Exhaust system

• KE, KG model
• Except KE, KG model

Check the exhaust pipe and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.

Fuel lines and connections

• Check fuel lines for loose connections, cracks, and deterioration.
• Retighten loose connections and replace any damaged parts.

 

Is it true your timing chain lasts the life of the engine and is that from honda itself, cause if its like that that is pretty good

 

I'd much rather deal with a valve adjust every few dozen K miles or so than a t-belt package. Mind you I did mine for less than $200, it's still a lot of time if you DIY.
Glad someone found the maint. schedule. I was looking for it in ISIS but didn't have time to find it before I left the house.

 

Yes, this is true and this is from the manufacturer. Under normal operations conditions, the chain should last the life of the vehicle. Cars that have been BEATEN on may require tension adjustments or tensioner guide replacement, but that is in an extreme case. I think I've only ever seen one CHAIN that needed to be replaced, and that was on a tuned, supercharged RSX Type S. I believe the chain guides had worn down, allowing enough slack in the chain for it to slap the cover or for it to be 'jerked' taught in serious operating conditions.

 

so what would be the recomended mileage to check the adjustment cause i do alot of city driving and my oil is changed at 15 percent like clockwork

 

I think he's saying not to worry about it at all in your case, craig. You =

 

Yep! The timing chain is only checked during the diagnostic process if we believe it is the source of the issue, or in the case of catastrophic failure.

 

Is it easy to adjust the valves?