Picture/Info Needed - Motor Mount
#1
Picture/Info Needed - Motor Mount
does anyone have a pic or any info on how to get to the front motor mount/bobble strut?
i've seen plenty of pics of the two side mounts (which support the motor/trans) and the bottom rear mount (which is apparently a pita to change in the 5mt), but no real info on the 4th in the front...
anyone?
i've seen plenty of pics of the two side mounts (which support the motor/trans) and the bottom rear mount (which is apparently a pita to change in the 5mt), but no real info on the 4th in the front...
anyone?
#2
ok so it's on the front/drivers side on the trans...
here's my thought/concern:
i was thinking about just replacing this one, because it is BY FAR the mushiest mount of the four...
but...
i'm concerned about replacing it with the filled one because it's so far to one side - i'm afraid it'll torque the engine and put more stress on the other mounts and axles...
thoughts?
here's my thought/concern:
i was thinking about just replacing this one, because it is BY FAR the mushiest mount of the four...
but...
i'm concerned about replacing it with the filled one because it's so far to one side - i'm afraid it'll torque the engine and put more stress on the other mounts and axles...
thoughts?
#3
I would fill it with window weld for sure! that thing is SLOPPY, even brand new. to remove it, remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the actual chassis, then remove the 1 bolt (i think 1..) that attaches to the tranny.
I would FOR SURE do this without hesitation!
I would FOR SURE do this without hesitation!
#5
yeah i think so, If you installed a brand new one, it still sags... those mounts just suck.
window weld is tough but not solid.. I really do think you will be fine. I would for good measure do all of them though.
#7
I was told about 3M Dura Mix by Koi.. I bought what I need to dot the mounts an pretty sure I will find other uses for it on other projects... I have other things to finish right now but It's on jack stands so maybe I'll have it done before I put the wheels back down on the ground.... It's 43 degrees in the barn and the humidity 75.. Just right to aggravate the hell out of my arthritis... You youngsters have the same kind of stuff to look forward to, that is if you have a rough and tumble life style and work hard....
#8
with the spare set i bought off j, i don't need to have much downtime on the fit to swap them...
i already filled the three that could be filled, and i didn't want to make a jig to be able to extend and shape a beefier platform for the pass side mount...
the windowweld worked great... but did take quite a while to fully cure... but i had time...
i already filled the three that could be filled, and i didn't want to make a jig to be able to extend and shape a beefier platform for the pass side mount...
the windowweld worked great... but did take quite a while to fully cure... but i had time...
#9
with the spare set i bought off j, i don't need to have much downtime on the fit to swap them...
i already filled the three that could be filled, and i didn't want to make a jig to be able to extend and shape a beefier platform for the pass side mount...
the windowweld worked great... but did take quite a while to fully cure... but i had time...
i already filled the three that could be filled, and i didn't want to make a jig to be able to extend and shape a beefier platform for the pass side mount...
the windowweld worked great... but did take quite a while to fully cure... but i had time...
pics? I wanta see your skillz! ive seen some excellent windowweld workings. and some terrible ones. like my buddy who didnt take his mounts out of his car to do it nor elevate the motor even.. lol looks like the herps
#12
this thread - now with more pictures and info!
the swap: the mount, really more of a torque strut, in question (on the front side of the trans/drivers side) is the easiest thing to swap... just pull the splash guards, undo one nut (3/4") and two bolts (14mm) and the stock mount comes out... this one just lined right back up, and then buttoned everything back up...
results - the meh: there is more nvh upon startup and while starting off in 1st... once you're driving or once the car has warmed up at idle, it's really not noticeable... it does change the sound of the car while you're in it - makes it sound much lower... kinda cool...
results - the good: MUCH less engine movement when launching, shifting, and downshifting... the engine is much less prone to go anywhere... i haven't been able to drive it much (it's my wife's car) but i took it for a spin and was very pleasantly surprised...
future: i will be replacing the bottom rear mount once the car is mine, because that will introduce more nvh and we're trying to minimize that with my wife driving it mostly... i don't really see any reason to do the actual motor mounts (located on the sides of the engine) because they're more to hold the engine in place, and less to keep it from twisting...
conclusion: if you're going for the ultimate car (becauseracecar) then you might want to fill the two side mounts... but i imagine for most of us, if the front/drivers and bottom/rear torque struts are filled, that will be quite good for a majority of the people out there...
there is a video of the difference that will be posted once it's done processing...
and a picture:
the swap: the mount, really more of a torque strut, in question (on the front side of the trans/drivers side) is the easiest thing to swap... just pull the splash guards, undo one nut (3/4") and two bolts (14mm) and the stock mount comes out... this one just lined right back up, and then buttoned everything back up...
results - the meh: there is more nvh upon startup and while starting off in 1st... once you're driving or once the car has warmed up at idle, it's really not noticeable... it does change the sound of the car while you're in it - makes it sound much lower... kinda cool...
results - the good: MUCH less engine movement when launching, shifting, and downshifting... the engine is much less prone to go anywhere... i haven't been able to drive it much (it's my wife's car) but i took it for a spin and was very pleasantly surprised...
future: i will be replacing the bottom rear mount once the car is mine, because that will introduce more nvh and we're trying to minimize that with my wife driving it mostly... i don't really see any reason to do the actual motor mounts (located on the sides of the engine) because they're more to hold the engine in place, and less to keep it from twisting...
conclusion: if you're going for the ultimate car (becauseracecar) then you might want to fill the two side mounts... but i imagine for most of us, if the front/drivers and bottom/rear torque struts are filled, that will be quite good for a majority of the people out there...
there is a video of the difference that will be posted once it's done processing...
and a picture:
#18
drove it more today... so a follow up:
love it.
it's a much larger improvement than the clutch hardline... but the two together is excellent...
if you can deal with whatever nvh increase there is with this mount, i would have done this before the hardline... cheaper too
love it.
it's a much larger improvement than the clutch hardline... but the two together is excellent...
if you can deal with whatever nvh increase there is with this mount, i would have done this before the hardline... cheaper too
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lcq4blackstar
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
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07-13-2011 06:04 PM