Hi! Well, since this is my first post, thanks for all the silly good info on here, lurking has helped immensely in purchasing my fit confidently. I wish I could say it has been a great purchase, but on to the problem...

purchased a 2007 fit sport w/ 28K miles 2 weeks ago, looked to be in good condition but purchased on a bit of a gamble. Today, when I take it in for an oil change and battery test I notice that it's leaking coolant and ask them to find the leak. It's the radiator. The lot I bought from said they'll fix it, but there 70 miles away, and it's losing alot. overheating after 5 miles alot.

Quotes on replacing the radiator where all in the $350-400 range. After doing some reading, I found the spectra premium radiator for under 100. 2 questions.

1. Are the spectra premium radiators an acceptable replacement for the OEM part? I don't want to sacrifice quality, but I'm also looking for an economical option.

2. How difficult is it to replace the radiator? I have very little experience under the hood of a car, but I have a roommate with alot of knowledge and experience and bought this car intending to attempt fixes myself.

and as an aside, any good resources on replacing the radiator? I was going to get a 3 day pass to HELMs online service manuals.

 

Replacement is relatively straight forward. Drain coolant. Start disconnecting things from the bottom first. Then the top and finally remove it from the car, along with the fan assembly. When disconnecting thing take care with all connections. If you bugger one up it leads to headaches. There will be hoses, coolant lines, electrical connections. Everything plugged in will need to be unplugged.

Not hard if you simply take your time. With replacement in hand it becomes a bit more understandable.

The replacement needs to be specific to the year model of your ride, but any should do the job. No clue on the spectra?

You can get an exact replacement from honda for $212 - look here: CFL HONDA

Good luck - keep us posted, ask questions ;-)

 

thanks for the feedback! My new radiator shipped today, will hopefully be installing it on Monday. I'll be sure to post how it goes. I'm sad I can't drive my new car for a few days, but I don't have a plate for it at the mo-ment anyways. Don't buy from shady lots kids!

I've loved the car so far (other than this issue of course) and can't wait to get it running again.

 

A DIY radiator replacement would be nice to see.

 

I don't own a decent camera, but if I can get my hands on one by Monday I'll try and put together a DIY.

 

There is an alternative:
To get it back to the seller you can add a radiator seal leak additive that will probably do the job for well over 100 miles.Been so long since we used one I'd recommend checking CarGuys website for a recommendation.
If they are willing to repair at little cost to you it is worth considering.
PS CarGuys is the PBS radio program on Saturday mornings and they are quite good. I know they have recommended some rad sealers before. Still overheating in 5 miles seems like a very big leak; how did you get it home?. Did seller offer any kind of payment directly to you? If you do take it back be sure to carry several gallons of water with you.
good luck.

 

well, I drove it home. I live 5 miles from work, and the shop that diagnosed it is right next to my work. They topped off the fluids and warned me of the seriousness of the leak, and the warning light came on just before I got home. It's parked and will stay that way till the new rad gets here.

I've already ordered the new radiator, and the dealer is mailing me a check to cover the cost of the parts, so at this point I'd rather just do it myself then try to limp it back once or twice and get them to fix it. Thanks for the info on the additive though. I'll need to get it across town to do the replacement (living in an apartment really sucks sometimes) so that might be the solution to that problem. I'll have to do some reading, checking carguys first.

 

I would steer clear of using the stop leak stuff. Top off the radiator before you go and take it easy and have a big jug of water handy. Problem is the stop leak really contaminates the cooling system. If there's any way to avoid it, and I think you can, try to. Use plain old water to get across town. Once you get the job done, then fill 'er up w/ anti freeze. Go with the Honda Coolant Type II.

 

Yeah I agree definately stay away from that leak stop stuff. That would clog something up when you put your new one in if not properly flushed out. Make sure you use the blue honda coolant If not you will cause more damage. Worse case senario the car was overheated too many times and the heads are damaged so no matter what it will keep overheating.

 

You ask and you shall receive!


1) Drain the engine coolant.

2) Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height.

3) Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 2 connector, then remove the harness clamp.


**Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 connector, then remove the harness clamp**

4) With A/C: Remove the A/C compressor clutch connector from the clamp, then remove the harness clamps.

5) Disconnect the lower radiator hose.


**Disconnect the lower radiator hose (A) and the ATF cooler hoses (B)**

6) A/T model: Remove the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) cooler hoses, then plug the hose and line.

7) Lower the vehicle on the lift.

8) Remove the coolant reservoir.

9) Disconnect the radiator fan motor connector, then remove the harness clamp.



10) With A/C: Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector, then remove the harness clamp.

11) Remove the upper radiator hose.

12) Remove the radiator upper brackets.


**Upper brackets**

13) Pull up the radiator.


**diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com

14) With A/C: Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly.

15) Remove the radiator fan shroud assembly, radiator cap, the ECT sensor 2, and the drain plug.

To install:

1) Reassemble the radiator with new O-rings.

2) Install the radiator. Make sure the lower cushions are set securely.

3) Install the radiator upper brackets.

4) Install the upper radiator hose.

5) Connect the radiator fan motor connector, then install the harness clamp.

6) With A/C: Connect the condenser fan motor connector, then install the harness clamp.

7) Install the coolant reservoir.

8) Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height.

9) Install the lower radiator hose.

10) A/T model: Remove the plug from the hose and the line, then install the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) cooler hoses.

11) Connect the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 2 connector, then install the harness clamp.

12) With A/C: Install the A/C compressor clutch connector to the clamp, then install the harness clamps.

13) Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system with the heater valve open.

14) Clean up any spilled engine coolant.


You're doneskys!

 

She lives!

New radiator came in on monday, and after a couple hours monkeying around it is installed and running like a champ again!

I've put 70 or so miles on it since then, with no leaks, so I think it's safe to say this issue has been solved. Installation was actually fairly easy, I have very little experience and between fitcrazy80s writeup and the helm online service manual I had no serious problems.

Now to figure out what keeps draining my battery