fit mpg - disappointed
#1
fit mpg - disappointed
So got a used fit for the wife. it's an 07 sport AT at 69k miles. First fill up was wednesday and only got 215 miles right when the light came on. Yes there's a lot of traffic in this area but it's not all city driving so what gives? I'd guess it is 50/50 hwy/stop n go. I think I calculated the mpg to be 25 which is below epa. I can do the same drive and get 39mpg on my jetta tdi automatic. Tires are 34 rear and 36 front. Changed the air filter and tranny fluid today so we'll see if it improves any. I honestly think the wife has a lead foot.
#2
Diesels will always get better mpg. They have higher compression and the fuel has 20 percent more btus. 25 is not that bad for 50/50 driving and the mountains there. Try higher octane and see what happens, with higher engine loads premium will run leaner and give you better mpg. I figure you should get around 30 mpg and all hwy around 35.
#3
MPG will go up
haha on the leadfoot, I was getting 21-26 MPG and changed the oil and ATF w/ Mobile 1 and it came back up to 28 mpg all suburban /city driving 12 miles to work and back home and this is what kills my mpg, short trips!
Last edited by Perrenoud Fit; 02-26-2011 at 11:36 PM.
#5
It would appear that the previous owner just did an oil change not too long ago. Think I will keep my Jetta after seeing how the fit performs in traffic. I did think about getting a brand new Fit but oh well.
#6
It just burns more efficient and the price is 2.40 more for 10 gallons, less than a gallon of regular.
Using synthetic oil also might help. If your mpg doesn't come up after a few tanks then something else is wrong. You just ruled out knock retard. The o2 sensors and spark plugs should be good until 100000 miles and you already covered the rest.
In my GD3 I got 34-35 in winter and 38-40 summer with a life time average of 36mpg. My last winter I got 32 but thats because my highway speed raised up 15 more mph.
#7
The fit is there lowest price car Honda makes. I learned a long time ago the benefits of premium. Honda has a high compression motor and if it didn't have a knock sensor it would run on and you would hear knock. The car doesn't care what you put in it, just will burn more gas to prevent knock.
It just burns more efficient and the price is 2.40 more for 10 gallons, less than a gallon of regular.
Using synthetic oil also might help. If your mpg doesn't come up after a few tanks then something else is wrong. You just ruled out knock retard. The o2 sensors and spark plugs should be good until 100000 miles and you already covered the rest.
In my GD3 I got 34-35 in winter and 38-40 summer with a life time average of 36mpg. My last winter I got 32 but thats because my highway speed raised up 15 more mph.
It just burns more efficient and the price is 2.40 more for 10 gallons, less than a gallon of regular.
Using synthetic oil also might help. If your mpg doesn't come up after a few tanks then something else is wrong. You just ruled out knock retard. The o2 sensors and spark plugs should be good until 100000 miles and you already covered the rest.
In my GD3 I got 34-35 in winter and 38-40 summer with a life time average of 36mpg. My last winter I got 32 but thats because my highway speed raised up 15 more mph.
#9
50/50 Driving in my 2010 I get about 27 mpg if I drive economically. If not I get about 23-25ish. Now Straight highway is a different story. I usually get up to about 75-80 cruising speed and I get about 38-45 mpg depending on the size of the vehicle that's in front of me.
#11
there is nothing wrong there. small displacement gasoline engines need to be mated to a manual transmission to get the most efficiency/power to the wheels
#12
I'm willing to bet that the valve lash has not been adjusted. That'll kill mileage for sure! @40k, I noticed my usual 30mpg dropping, adjusted valves, got it right back.
This: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post621889 is the procedure. Looks intimidating, but if you just use patience, it's no big deal. What got left out to get to the point that procedure starts at (from memory, please forgive errors in detail):
Park car with tires turned all the way to the right
Remove two bolts holding down air intake box, loosen band clamp at throttle body
Disconnect harness from IAT sensor at rear of intake air tube
Wiggle, rotate, slide air box to right until it comes loose from throttle body, remove.
Remove plastic manifold cover (2 10mm cap nuts, two plastic 1/4 turn retainers)
Along rear of plastic manifold runner, unclip the 4 coil pack connectors (Blue)
At right rear corner of runner, release wire harness retainer (bolt I think??)
Unbolt throttle body from runner
Unbolt runner from cast aluminum manifold, remove
Now you should be looking at the valve (cylinder head) cover. This has a reusable gasket, but you need to be careful to prevent warping the cover - loosen the bolts just enough to crack them, then go around to each one in turn loosening it about 1/4 turn, repeat until all the gasket pressure is released. Then go ahead and remove bolts in no particular order.
The adjustment procedure states "rotate the crankshaft" several times. In order to do this, put a (19mm?) socket on a long extension. Inside the passenger wheel arch, in line with the crankshaft, is a star shaped perforation of the fender liner. Push socket through this, on to the crankshaft pulley bolt. Add ratchet, rotate CLOCKWISE ONLY - it actually is fairly easy. No need to remove from bolt head while you do the adjusting, and when you do pull it off you can either use your fingers to spread the fender liner tabs to get your socket out, or just pull back and let it pop off the extension, from whence it will fall to the floor and be easily retrieved.
It will probably take you about 2 hours to do the first time, not counting how long it takes the engine to cool off.
This: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post621889 is the procedure. Looks intimidating, but if you just use patience, it's no big deal. What got left out to get to the point that procedure starts at (from memory, please forgive errors in detail):
Park car with tires turned all the way to the right
Remove two bolts holding down air intake box, loosen band clamp at throttle body
Disconnect harness from IAT sensor at rear of intake air tube
Wiggle, rotate, slide air box to right until it comes loose from throttle body, remove.
Remove plastic manifold cover (2 10mm cap nuts, two plastic 1/4 turn retainers)
Along rear of plastic manifold runner, unclip the 4 coil pack connectors (Blue)
At right rear corner of runner, release wire harness retainer (bolt I think??)
Unbolt throttle body from runner
Unbolt runner from cast aluminum manifold, remove
Now you should be looking at the valve (cylinder head) cover. This has a reusable gasket, but you need to be careful to prevent warping the cover - loosen the bolts just enough to crack them, then go around to each one in turn loosening it about 1/4 turn, repeat until all the gasket pressure is released. Then go ahead and remove bolts in no particular order.
The adjustment procedure states "rotate the crankshaft" several times. In order to do this, put a (19mm?) socket on a long extension. Inside the passenger wheel arch, in line with the crankshaft, is a star shaped perforation of the fender liner. Push socket through this, on to the crankshaft pulley bolt. Add ratchet, rotate CLOCKWISE ONLY - it actually is fairly easy. No need to remove from bolt head while you do the adjusting, and when you do pull it off you can either use your fingers to spread the fender liner tabs to get your socket out, or just pull back and let it pop off the extension, from whence it will fall to the floor and be easily retrieved.
It will probably take you about 2 hours to do the first time, not counting how long it takes the engine to cool off.
Last edited by kbri; 02-27-2011 at 06:23 AM.
#13
She's lead footing it or something is wrong with its state of tune. At 21,103 miles my '08 5-speed has a life time fuel consumption average of 35.93 mpg, calculated via miles driven divided by gallons pumped. My wife's '02 Golf TDI 5-speed at 101,000+ has a life time fuel consumption average of 47.5 mpg, same calculation method. Something isn't right with your calculated fuel mileage.
FWIW,
-Rod
FWIW,
-Rod
#14
My wife has a lead foot too. When she finishes driving it, I check the MPG-o-meter and it'll be in the 20's but yet after I drive it, it comes back up into the 30's.
#17
OP, weve been getting lower than the listed MPG as well in our '07 fit we just picked up. We noticed that the tire pressure was very low, in the mid 20's and that the air filter was very dirty. I will report back if there are any improvements.
#18
Note: The GE8 has a different ecu and should not need a reset. It changes the trim and timing based on MAF which the GD3 doesn't have.
Last edited by SilverBullet; 02-27-2011 at 01:37 PM.
#19
she use to drive a chrysler pacifica. it ate oil like there was no tomorrow. the new diesel jettas don't get that good of an mpg especially the auto but they do have great torque! anyways i will try to reset the ecu, just need to find the radio code.
#20
Yeah I was going to adjust it in a few weeks. I'm sure it needs it.