Pinching the PCV hose to the PCV valve will cause it to click If it is properly working...Now that the weather is cooler, I can hear a lot more racket... I guess the the traction oil in the constant velocity planetary transmission causes my car to be even louder than most...Once the engine is warm it is much quieter ....I'm almost sure it will be getting louder when I put the Weapon R intake manifold on it.. I think that the stock plastic intake parts cover up the noise somewhat.... I have resigned myself to accepting the noise as something that is common to the engine and not something the won't be there when you start your engine when it is cold......

 

It sounds like it a combination of a few things. You got the valves, injectors, EGR, and piston slap. I think the plastic intake makes it worse because if you ever hit plastic its kinda loud. I would try to de carbon the valves and take the EGR valve off to see if its clogging. I would use seafoam spray, finding a vacuum line and spraying and loading the engine until it dies, wait a few minutes and run it out. You do that with a motor at operating temp.


I also wonder if oil type has something to do with it, when I used M1 the engine never got above 177 at highway speeds which seems low. My Civic runs 188 to 190. Cooler engine temps is good for power but the emission system does not work efficiently and mpg could suffer.

 

It seems to me that, as in my case, if the noise was not there for the first 50k miles, then the noise is not normal. Something is making it. Perhaps something is worn or clogged.

Is the ERG valve a valve? That is, is it something that opens and closes? If so, could the opening and closing of the ERG valve be making the noise?


ERG Valve replacement is on Page 11-327 of the Service Manual.

 

Honda Fit Ge6 EGR - YouTube Its similar.

 

^^Silver, thanks for the ERG youtube. I'm fixating on the ERG because it's right there up front of the engine and I can easily replace it. But I'm going to wait until I hear a good, clear noise coming from it.

 

You have no codes yet right? I would take TC advice and use a cheap fuel injection cleaner with a quarter tank and run it down a few more gallons and fill up. It should clean the valves and might Fix the EGR or help it fail a little sooner because of the cleaning action of the cleaner.

I am running a test between to identical cars. One with regular and 1 premium gas. My wifes car has a lots of soot around the tail pipe and gets bad mpg on regular. I have to add premium every once in a while because the engine runs so rough. I use premium and have no real problems except when I throw in a different brand. My mpg is up too.

 

1) Piston slap is out. Why go for the most farfetched theory first? Why assume that the largest builder of engines in the world can't design a sub-compact without screwing up the pistons? Why go with a theory that has never been substantiated by anyone else? Furthermore, my noise sounds like its coming from the top side of the engine. Even my dealer didn't think it was bottom end related.

2) I checked my valves. They are making noise, but it is the right kind of noise.

3) "plastic intake" and "hitting plastic": Now, this sounds like what I am hearing. This is what I have been saying all along. But what is hitting what, and why has it started to make a noise now? Are the injectors made of plastic, or partially made of plastic? Do worn injectors make this kind of noise? If so, why is my noise intermittent?

4) Low oil temp. You are scaring me here, Silver. I have recently noticed that my car seems to be taking longer to warm up. WTF? My noise is not present immediately upon start-up, but appears after the engine has warmed. Again, it is intermittent. I recently changed to Mobile 1, but my noise predates that, I think.

5) ERG: Again, is this a valve that opens and closes? Could it be the kind of valve that could make this relatively rapid noise?

6) I have run some Techron in my Fit, but that's as far as I am prepared to go. Seafoam, shmeafoam. I don't like to put additives or "cleaners" in my engines.

The best I can come up with so far is that it is a) something that is temperature related and/or b) something that is clogging and then clearing itself, like an emissions type thing that needs to be cleaned or replaced. But what emissions thing would make this kind of noise? None that I know of.


P.S. How about cleaning the throttle body? Could a dirty throttle body cause this noise?

 

No codes yet for me.

See above re: Techron.

Re fuel: Honda says use regular unleaded. Premium is for higher octane, which is to say, for detonation. I would say that both regular and premium afford the same "cleaning" properties.

 

Sea foam is all natural and is mostly toluene and has been around since WWII, get the spray so you can control the flow. Warm up when the light goes off it goes from open to close loop and the motor is not fully warm. The temps running up to 170 is OK and nothing to worry about just that more heat makes the car a little more efficient. Injectors are self cleaning but up might have one the is not cleaning right. That is another reason I use premium. When I get back from shopping I will go more into that.

M1 is a great oil but in the right application. I was big into M1 but learned that I have options and that even the dealer changed brands. I learned a lot from reading on this forum and researching oil. Fuel is my experience and I would use regular if it was cost effective.

 

I'll think about the Seafoam.

Injectors are self-cleaning? I've never heard that one.

I love discussing oil. Are you on Bob the Oil Guy's forum? Now that you have brought the matter up, I may change out the Mobile 1 and go back to Castrol.

I didn't fully get what you said about "closed loop" and "open loop." Maybe you could clarify that, when you have a sec.


BTW, I have not noticed any diminution of performance since this noise started. Has anyone?

 

gimme, I've been thinking about this post. I agree with you. My situation is much the same, and if buying a new Fit would solve the problem, then that solution is very much on the table for me.

But, noise or no noise, I can't say that I have experienced a loss of performance yet, and no matter how hard I run the car, I cannot seem to break it. So, I don't want to jump ship until I'm sure we're going down.

 

Here is what I am now using in my car to clean things up a bit and improve the octane rating of the fuel... My idle was a little bumpy but not since putting Home Brew in it.... I used a mix of toulenol, acetone naptha and isopropyl along with Marvel Mystery Oil in my brew.... I added about 6 ounces of the combined ingredients ti a 1/4 tank of fuel then drove to town to top off the tank and go blow what ever loosened up or dissolved out the exhaust pipe.... For some reason the exhaust didn't smell as strong afterward and the car ran real good (fast). IT was a little slow about getting up to operating temperature , because of the added lubrication of the combustion chambers and cylinder walls.... There were no signs of oil droplets on the exhaust outlet or rear hatch and bumper from blow by either...I'm taking it out in the rain in a while and see how it does.+

 

^^Coyote, I don't know what your little Honda engine ever did to you to make you want to poison it, but it must have been something.

 

And another thing: Piston slap would not be intermittent.

I just had another classic instance of our noise. I drove the snot out of the car to the gym. No noise. After my work out, I got back in and the noise was nice and loud. I lift the hood. This time, I had already removed the plastic lid that covers the intake and this time it sounded like the noise was coming from the injectors.

So, I head home (less than 10 mi. and I'm still driving like a maniac, except on the freeway, where I am doing 65 mph in fifth) to check it further and, by the time I arrive, the noise is gone and the engine sounds perfectly normal.

Go figure.

 

Injectors will make a ticking noise from time to time for sure. Not necessarily a problem more than just annoying as hell. I would run some quality injector cleaner through the tank, possibly a cocktail similar to Coyote's. Once about halfway through the fuel/cocktail mix, run the piss out of your car. Take it to red line a few times and allow it to engine brake from red line down to idle. APPLY, RINSE, REPEAT AS NECESSARY. Should clean her right on out.

 

BTW, Deffy don't think it's piston slap. Sounds like something a Chevy Cavalier would do. These cars were generally designed to be perfect. DUH!

 

Lot of the problems people are having is from carbon build up on the valves. If the injectors were the problem then there would be thousands of post on replacing the injectors. I cant find the tech paper on that but it goes something like this.
How to Clean a Honda Injector | eHow.co.uk

I love learning more about oil and fuels and how it relates to performance and mpg in motors. I am not on that site but have read a few posts. Engines in general is my specialty.

Open loop is basically a pre-programmed set of values the engine uses minus O2 close loop. I see that the long term fuel trim is the correction of the pre-programmed open loop settings which is the adjustment of engine wear, and conditions. Basically the engine use open loop during start up, full throttle and any time conditions change to fast usually during knock and high loads.

 

Honda say 87 or higher and as the car ages there is something called ORI octane rate increase. The problem running regular is that the timing retards to slow the burn and more fuel is added which means more carbon and emissions. Mpg suffers and so does power because most of the fuel is burnt at the wrong time. Engine damage can occur and over time big problems happen. http://www.fuelcertification.com/doc...gine_Knock.pdf

 

Your site says:

Octane Requirement Increase
Octane requirements can increase with mileage, even in new cars. This phenomenon is called Octane Requirement Increase (ORI). Research by BP Amoco Fuels Technology and other oil and automobile companies shows that ORI is caused by carbon deposits that build up inside the engine’s combustion chambers. The average ORI is four to five numbers after a new car has been driven 15,000 to 20,000 miles. The octane requirement then stabilizes. Consequently, some new cars that recommend and can use lead-free regular gasoline when new, require higher octane than lead-free regular offers after a year or two.

What does "The octane requirement then stabilizes" mean?

By the way, is your site subsidized by, and using the research of, the oil companies? Doesn't that make their statements suspect?

 

If he's using it, and he still has the noise, what's the point?


By the way, I have already used one bottle of Techron, and I drive the piss out of my car daily.