Just got this in today. Complete swap of a 2010 accord. only down side is that its an automatic... FAIL! I could not pass up the buy for the price was cheap and i do mean low baller status. Its going in my fit but if i don't see enough support for the swap ill just dump it in my 00si coupe. Lets build this thing, throw me some names of who ever might sell parts for this build to happen. Engine code is a little blurry. I have about 5k to spend on any necessary parts i might not have and another 5k on head work i.e. cams, port and polish, retainers, valves and if cash allows it some block work... thanks for the support

 

You definitely do not need to dump $5k into the head.

You should spend less than $2.5k to do the following.. Including CNC-ing, flycutting, unshrouding the runners, ports and bowls as well as making the flow "tumble" and swirl, big cams, back cut natrium filled SS valves, double beehive springs, titanium retainers, copper valve seats, 5-angle valve job.. the works, etc.




(Note these are uncoated valves, but all the other work above has been performed to this head, you can see the valve shrouding was removed in the middle picture)


And with that kind of work, that is the head I would put on a >1000whp 4-cyl

Take a small fraction of that money and get the head flow benched before you do anything!

The K-series "z" heads tend to out flow both 1g and 2g DSM heads because of superior port design, and for comparison there are a bunch of people running 9's and 10's (think 450-700whp) on polished and bowl-blended stock DSM heads.

If you have $10k to throw around but don't know where to start, I can help you make it count!

Even the most absurd head shouldn't cost you more than ~$2k or you are getting bent over!

You should be able to get the thing in the car, boosted and running some crazy numbers for $5-6K unless you have to rely on a shop for everything or you decide to go big..

Like a twin-scroll, divided T4 flange 74mm Borg Warner Turbo and some real boost. Like 38-45psi on E85 pumping through some ID2150 injectors and fed by a couple Bosch 044 fuel pumps regulated by an Aeromotive AFPR.

If you want a serious build that will take any abuse you throw at it.. Wiseco or Mahle for some pistons, Wiseco, Manley, GRP or Groden for the connecting rods, ARP L19's for all the connecting hardware.. ACL or Clevite-Mahle for the bearings

Call Darton or Eagle for some block sleeves, O-ring the Head, copper spray a Fel-pro MLS gasket in your desired thickness, and ship everything conceivable off to someone like Rocky Mount Cryo for a Liquid Nitrogen bath.

Then send the pistons, valves, etc. to Tirado Custom Coatings for some ceramic coating.

For an intake manifold, exhaust system or really anything you need fabricated call up Magnus, Shearer, JMFab, DVDT or Andrew Kisner.

You sound like you mean business and have the budget, I would love to get you in contact with the guys who can make it happen!

As long as you are not blowing smoke up our asses...

 

very nice im thinking of getting a K24a2 and was told with Cams, Cam gears, intake I should esly be able to make 250na

 

Sounds about right, maybe some exhaust work as well to get there. I'm ASSuming that you mean 250whp NA?

If you are getting some bigger bump-sticks you should go overkill on the springs and retainers to fight valve float at the high rpm you'll want to turn on them.

This also leaves you room to grow in the future without needing to drop money on beefier springs!

Just my opinion, of course as you certainly seem to do pretty damn well on your own!

 

haha no smoke man. i have been saving since i bought the car in 08. i think it was extreme dimension that built a fit with 700hp on a k24 tsx motor and ever since then ive been wanting to get a K motor myself. The only thing is that i assume you got this work done around your neck of the woods and the shipping on a head im sure would be no cheap ticket. i will however take your advice as far as how to go about my build because you seem very knowledgable. My only other concern about the build is the head on the k24z3. when i was stripping the motor earlier i noticed that the exhaust manifold was obsolete. if you have not seen what i am referring to i will post a picture tomorrow morning. it appears that honda in a stroke of genius matted the exhaust manifold onto the head. thanks for the advice.

 

by the way i do have to rely on shops because i have no experience in doing head work myself.

 

yea 250whp NA. The cams im looking at are stage 1 and say you CAN run the stock springs and retainers but I fugured I would upgrade them anyways. I mean your in there anyways and never hurts to have a little more protection.

 

With the exception of some of the machining and fab work that I do not currently have the tools or machines for it is all done out of my garage. A multimeter, basic mechanics tools, a jack, some stands and a hoist lets me get by on about 95% of whatever I need to do. And I use FedEx or USPS for the heavy stuff.

The average 2.0L gas longblock should only run you about $50-150 each way. I live in Chicago and places I mentioned like Tirado Custom Coatings is in California, and Rocky Mountain Cryo is in Colorado, my transmission guy is in Ohio, so something I do obviously have to ship out.

Fortunately I found a good machine shop thats about 10miles from my house, and that is where the Fit comes in handy.

There are plenty of people making a ton of power on the integrated cylinder heads, including the R18 civics, so I don't see that as a big threat really.

It's probably a way for Honda to cut a corner but if it didn't do the job they wouldn't bother.

I wouldn't worry about that too much, and it saves you the hassle of needing a whole manifold built for your car. Instead you just need what is basically a collector to bolt on a turbo, and then a downpipe.

And as long as you source the flanges and most of the metal stock yourself, any reputable exhaust shop should be able to help you out for relatively cheap.


If you can build the engine yourself or at least gather all the parts and then bring them and the car to one shop for final install that should save you a bundle.

You should be able to get the components for a forged rotating assembly for less than $2k, the cylinder head for up to 500whp worth of air should be about $1.5k and really only involve a little clean up of any casting flash or knife-edging and polishing, a cam some cam gears and springs.

Blue-printing and assembly will be relatively expensive to have a shop do it, I would just take a couple months and learn it yourself really.

Some green and red plastigauge, royal purple assembly lube, feeler gauges, a couple of micrometers, and a shop service manual for the engine will pretty much take care of that for you.

With a $10k budget and doing as much wrenching on your own as possible will go a long way.

Consider I am an engineer and not a mechanic by trade or training. You can do this. You just need the basic materials and confidence to educate yourself and wrench away.


You never stated what your goals were for this engine, if you can nail those down I'd be happy to help you start sourcing some complementary parts! Or at the very least give you an idea of what you would need to do it efficiently in terms of supporting modifications, fuel, etc.

 

Dispite our small amount of bickering, Diamond seems to know what he is talking about, and you should listen to him. We see 230whp on stock k20z engines with I/H/E and FlashPro. You should be able to attain that with all Diamond said. I would recommend a Hybrid Racing chain tensioner, and an rsx oil pump to eliminate the balance shafts on the k24. You can spin the engine higher and not worry about oil scavenging issues. Your biggest gain will probably be mid range torque with the k24, though. They are nice swaps....

We are getting 400whp reliably out of completely stock turbocharged k20a2 and k20z3 engines on 93 octane.

As far as 700WHP, it is attainable as well, everything under the hood must be built though, including the transmission.

Here is a video from one of our good customers, making 680WHP in a b-series:
YouTube - CJP0891's Channel