rim size and intake?
#1
rim size and intake?
have people here found an increase on HP with getting an intake and help with gas mileage? What are some of the most beneficial mods people do for HP? Also what size rim up grades are people typically up grading to? 17's, 18's?
#2
mines an 17", it looks allright for now because i havent lowered my car yet, but i think an 18" would fit better depending on how low you want your ride to be and also the bumpers you have or thinking of getting. Bear in mind the bigger the rims the thinner the wheel and the thinner the wheels the less comfortable you'll be driving.
#4
18's are way to big for the Fit, 17's are about the max I would go. For HP your really not going to see great gains with the simple bolt ons, you will need boost or build the engine.
Last edited by MNfit; 07-04-2010 at 12:37 PM.
#5
sounds good thanks for the advice. I will probably go with 17's.
What drop springs are most people happy with? I don't want anything real aggressive or rough. Just something to close the fender tire gap and make it look a little more sporty.
What drop springs are most people happy with? I don't want anything real aggressive or rough. Just something to close the fender tire gap and make it look a little more sporty.
#7
here is a pic to show you the stance with 16s
#8
I agree with MNfit. 18's are just to big for the fit. I'm running 17's right now just because i know that im not trying to go racing or anything like that with the fit. Go with a Eibach if you want a lower drop then the progress. They are a 1.6 drop but i have no rubbing with 205/40
#11
I like both pics provided. Though it's a little hard to tell as it's not the side pic of the car. 17's with 1.6 drop I think looks the best... not sure if I wanna sacrifice ride for it though.
Thanks
Thanks
#12
As you widen tires the weight generally increases so you need a slight decrease in diameter to make up for the weight. Its the tire weight more than wheel weight that counts most because the weight is farther from the wheel center compaed to the wheel. And its torque or weight times radiy\us that counts most.
#13
As you widen tires the weight generally increases so you need a slight decrease in diameter to make up for the weight. Its the tire weight more than wheel weight that counts most because the weight is farther from the wheel center compaed to the wheel. And its torque or weight times radiy\us that counts most.
agree with tires being a hidden weight factor, but i took that into account too
#14
sure, but you'd only have to decrease the radius if you're working with the same wheel... i switched to lower weight wheels and did an inch larger and wider and still came in under the weight of the stock wheels...
agree with tires being a hidden weight factor, but i took that into account too
agree with tires being a hidden weight factor, but i took that into account too
If you lowered the wheel weight by a pound and increased the tire weight by 2 pound you have a net loss. Lets say you go from 12 to 11 lb wheel on 15". The torque required to turn the wheel is now !!x7.5/12 or 6.875 lb-ft at a radius of 7.5" on a 15" wheel.
The original wheel of 12 lb required 7.7 lb-ft, the new one 6.9 lb-ft..
Now if your original tire weighed 18 lb and the wider one 20 lb, (both these are lower than most Fit tires) the torque increases from 18x12.7/12 to 20x12.65/12 or from 18.9 lb-ft to 21.1 lb-ft.
You got a reduction of 0.8 lb-ft and an increase of 2.2 lb-ft to turn the wheel and tire for a net loss of 1.4 Lb-ft. On four wheel/tires that 5.6 lb-ft loss. Its one of the first engineering calcs done when choosing a tire for a vehicle.
Thats about 4% of maximum torque available and muc higher % at lesser speeds on the torque curve so you could expect about that same loss or a little greater in mpg as well a bit more on acceleration even though the 'new' tire was 0.1 inch less diameter.
And it could cost you more in top speed than 4%. Theoretically, all you get is higher cornering but thats not always true. In many cases the extra power required to turn the wheel prevents an increase in speed.
Lighten the tire first and then the wheel for best results. cheers.
Last edited by mahout; 07-08-2010 at 03:43 PM.
#15
As usual Mahout is in the know about this topic... Lighter wheels and tires have done more for the "overall performance" of my car than anything else and I have the KWSC high boost kit, which only makes it faster.
#16
If you lowered the wheel weight by a pound and increased the tire weight by 2 pound you have a net loss. Lets say you go from 12 to 11 lb wheel on 15". The torque required to turn the wheel is now !!x7.5/12 or 6.875 lb-ft at a radius of 7.5" on a 15" wheel.
The original wheel of 12 lb required 7.7 lb-ft, the new one 6.9 lb-ft..
Now if your original tire weighed 18 lb and the wider one 20 lb, (both these are lower than most Fit tires) the torque increases from 18x12.7/12 to 20x12.65/12 or from 18.9 lb-ft to 21.1 lb-ft.
You got a reduction of 0.8 lb-ft and an increase of 2.2 lb-ft to turn the wheel and tire for a net loss of 1.4 Lb-ft. On four wheel/tires that 5.6 lb-ft loss. Its one of the first engineering calcs done when choosing a tire for a vehicle.
Thats about 4% of maximum torque available and muc higher % at lesser speeds on the torque curve so you could expect about that same loss or a little greater in mpg as well a bit more on acceleration even though the 'new' tire was 0.1 inch less diameter.
And it could cost you more in top speed than 4%. Theoretically, all you get is higher cornering but thats not always true. In many cases the extra power required to turn the wheel prevents an increase in speed.
Lighten the tire first and then the wheel for best results. cheers.
The original wheel of 12 lb required 7.7 lb-ft, the new one 6.9 lb-ft..
Now if your original tire weighed 18 lb and the wider one 20 lb, (both these are lower than most Fit tires) the torque increases from 18x12.7/12 to 20x12.65/12 or from 18.9 lb-ft to 21.1 lb-ft.
You got a reduction of 0.8 lb-ft and an increase of 2.2 lb-ft to turn the wheel and tire for a net loss of 1.4 Lb-ft. On four wheel/tires that 5.6 lb-ft loss. Its one of the first engineering calcs done when choosing a tire for a vehicle.
Thats about 4% of maximum torque available and muc higher % at lesser speeds on the torque curve so you could expect about that same loss or a little greater in mpg as well a bit more on acceleration even though the 'new' tire was 0.1 inch less diameter.
And it could cost you more in top speed than 4%. Theoretically, all you get is higher cornering but thats not always true. In many cases the extra power required to turn the wheel prevents an increase in speed.
Lighten the tire first and then the wheel for best results. cheers.
the math is cool though...
#17
It is. First time I saw that done- almost 50 years ago I was awd, especially when the chief engineer went out on the test course and proved it worked. As a young engineer I was simply amazed that formulas actually worked.
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