2007 FIT Misfiring/Hesitation
#1
2007 FIT Misfiring/Hesitation
After reading the discussions regarding the jerkiness and misfiring I decided to take it upon myself to replace all coils packs, and at the same time, install a new set of Denso IK20 5304 iridium plugs.
My issues started at about 78K miles. It would occur after about 10-miles of driving and only happened once or twice over my 33-miles commute. After a week or so it was much more prevalent. On the weekends, when driving with the A/C on, it was a constant nuisance. It usually happened when sitting at a light or when lightly accelerating.
I have yet to test the results of the swap but I'm hopeful that this corrects the issue.
The left two coils had pink boots, similar to the new ones, and the right two had orange boots.
I'll follow-up next-week when I've had a chance to put some time and distance on the new installs.
Here is a picture of the plugs and coils. They are arranged in sequence from left-to-right:
And the suspect one which seemed a bit loose when removing and had an oily reside:
Tonight I drove about 40-miles without a hiccup. No misfiring whatsoever, ever with the A/C on constantly. My issue seems to have been resolved. On Monday I'll have some Engineers at work check the resistance of the old coil packs. If anything is amiss I'll let you know.
My issues started at about 78K miles. It would occur after about 10-miles of driving and only happened once or twice over my 33-miles commute. After a week or so it was much more prevalent. On the weekends, when driving with the A/C on, it was a constant nuisance. It usually happened when sitting at a light or when lightly accelerating.
I have yet to test the results of the swap but I'm hopeful that this corrects the issue.
The left two coils had pink boots, similar to the new ones, and the right two had orange boots.
I'll follow-up next-week when I've had a chance to put some time and distance on the new installs.
Here is a picture of the plugs and coils. They are arranged in sequence from left-to-right:
And the suspect one which seemed a bit loose when removing and had an oily reside:
Tonight I drove about 40-miles without a hiccup. No misfiring whatsoever, ever with the A/C on constantly. My issue seems to have been resolved. On Monday I'll have some Engineers at work check the resistance of the old coil packs. If anything is amiss I'll let you know.
Last edited by HolyFit; 06-12-2010 at 08:33 PM. Reason: UPDATE
#3
Misfiring?
So, today I was told my Airbag sensors are no good, there's a short in the passenger airbag sensor and the driver sensor,
suddenly, when I accelerate, there is hesitation and almost a "bucking" motion. Its not violent or anything. Also, I am getting TERRIBLE gas mileage which started with the hesitation problem.
My 2007 Fit Base is just into 93K miles, and never had a problem until now.
Do you think the 2 are related?
What would be an ideal place to get parts? Autozone?
suddenly, when I accelerate, there is hesitation and almost a "bucking" motion. Its not violent or anything. Also, I am getting TERRIBLE gas mileage which started with the hesitation problem.
My 2007 Fit Base is just into 93K miles, and never had a problem until now.
Do you think the 2 are related?
What would be an ideal place to get parts? Autozone?
#4
Get OEM coilpacks, they can be had for about $66. Plugs you can buy from anywhere, just get what Honda specifies.
Have you had any check engine lights? Some sort of scanner will let you know exactly what coil is dying/dead when it picks up the codes or pending codes.
#5
Yes.
Get OEM coilpacks, they can be had for about $66. Plugs you can buy from anywhere, just get what Honda specifies.
Have you had any check engine lights? Some sort of scanner will let you know exactly what coil is dying/dead when it picks up the codes or pending codes.
Get OEM coilpacks, they can be had for about $66. Plugs you can buy from anywhere, just get what Honda specifies.
Have you had any check engine lights? Some sort of scanner will let you know exactly what coil is dying/dead when it picks up the codes or pending codes.
The only light i had was the SRS airbag light, and its off since i brought it to get looked at. The dealership said nothing came up on the scanner about the hesitation.
Im stuck.
#6
Did you change your plugs? Do that first. And pay attention to the coilpacks as you pull them off. There might be different styles, indicating which ones are the oldest. They are the most likely ones to be dying. The updated OEM one has a little nub that looks like a drain pointing downward on the firewall side of the coilpack.
I can't remember the boot colors, but they should not look an old neon pink/faded red, that would be an old one.
I can't remember the boot colors, but they should not look an old neon pink/faded red, that would be an old one.
#7
Did you change your plugs? Do that first. And pay attention to the coilpacks as you pull them off. There might be different styles, indicating which ones are the oldest. They are the most likely ones to be dying. The updated OEM one has a little nub that looks like a drain pointing downward on the firewall side of the coilpack.
I can't remember the boot colors, but they should not look an old neon pink/faded red, that would be an old one.
I can't remember the boot colors, but they should not look an old neon pink/faded red, that would be an old one.
i just bought Bosch Super Plus plugs, and by the time I got them, it was dark. I'll let you know what I see when I replace them in the morning. I haven't purchased a coil pack yet.
#8
32 years wrenching here so let me offer some visual opinion here. The 1st plug appearing in the pic looked to have been installed loose as the oil is burned on the threads and I see no sign of anti seize on those threads either. the iridium contacts have some carbon but reasonable for the miles. the only portion of the plug used in it's workings is that tiny tip and the area from the bottom of the hooked arm to above the pointed tip. could you have a leaking valve cover? I'm wondering why you would show oil on those threads if not. If oil were in the cylinder the iridium tip would have a build up of crud (carbonized oil)
#9
By the looks of the crush washers on the plugs looks like none of them were tightened down enough... Though it is advised by Honda that anti-seize compound isn't used and that they be tightened to a specified torque I use compound and finger tighten the plugs and then give them 1/4 turn to crush the sealing washers... I've been doing it that way for years without any problems.. It is odd that the oiled up plug that appeared loose appears to be the only one that the washer was somewhat crushed down on.
#12
So, today I was told my Airbag sensors are no good, there's a short in the passenger airbag sensor and the driver sensor,
suddenly, when I accelerate, there is hesitation and almost a "bucking" motion. Its not violent or anything. Also, I am getting TERRIBLE gas mileage which started with the hesitation problem.
My 2007 Fit Base is just into 93K miles, and never had a problem until now.
Do you think the 2 are related?
What would be an ideal place to get parts? Autozone?
suddenly, when I accelerate, there is hesitation and almost a "bucking" motion. Its not violent or anything. Also, I am getting TERRIBLE gas mileage which started with the hesitation problem.
My 2007 Fit Base is just into 93K miles, and never had a problem until now.
Do you think the 2 are related?
What would be an ideal place to get parts? Autozone?
Not sure where the ground circuits are but its not likely the airbag sensors are the fauilt of misfiring; coil paks and oplugs more likely the problem.
And who said your airbag sensors are bad? which onesd?
And you're not likely tgo find sensors at autgo supply chains.
#14
Hello HolyFit and HondaFit07
I fixed my salvage Honda Fit 2008 that have similar problem like you. My salvage car 130,000 miles, I brought it at 2009 when it at 6500 miles. I maintained and fixed own cars. I used the same sparkplugs as you shown those pictures Denso 5304.
Verify the following:
1) get a voltmeter set to ohm reading. check the sparkplugs tip-to-base (bottom seating). There should be resistance readout. If your sparkplugs are high in resistance reading or open, the sparks or arching will be weak or no firing at all. If you don't have a voltmeter then skip this step ... Denso make good sparkplugs.
2) the ignitor coils are weak due to age/high miles. So, the output voltage on these coils lower than new coils. The end results, the sparks are so weak that your engine will miss firing.
3) Adjust your Denso sparksplug gaps closer to the sparkplug tips....try 25% closer.
4) When the gaps are closer, it is take less power (lower voltage - weak coil) to arching across the air-gap that creat a spark.
As for my car, after adjusted the sparkplug gaps, it clear the check engine light by itself within 30 miles driving. But I cannot check the error code, because it is a salvage car and it is not wires correct from connector to ECU module. Even car run well, but the ignitor coils will get weaker and weaker. I ordered 4- coils Beck Arnley 178-8374 for $44.15/ea, no tax and free shipping.
Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 178-8374 Direct Ignition Coil: Automotive
I hope this help.
I fixed my salvage Honda Fit 2008 that have similar problem like you. My salvage car 130,000 miles, I brought it at 2009 when it at 6500 miles. I maintained and fixed own cars. I used the same sparkplugs as you shown those pictures Denso 5304.
Verify the following:
1) get a voltmeter set to ohm reading. check the sparkplugs tip-to-base (bottom seating). There should be resistance readout. If your sparkplugs are high in resistance reading or open, the sparks or arching will be weak or no firing at all. If you don't have a voltmeter then skip this step ... Denso make good sparkplugs.
2) the ignitor coils are weak due to age/high miles. So, the output voltage on these coils lower than new coils. The end results, the sparks are so weak that your engine will miss firing.
3) Adjust your Denso sparksplug gaps closer to the sparkplug tips....try 25% closer.
4) When the gaps are closer, it is take less power (lower voltage - weak coil) to arching across the air-gap that creat a spark.
As for my car, after adjusted the sparkplug gaps, it clear the check engine light by itself within 30 miles driving. But I cannot check the error code, because it is a salvage car and it is not wires correct from connector to ECU module. Even car run well, but the ignitor coils will get weaker and weaker. I ordered 4- coils Beck Arnley 178-8374 for $44.15/ea, no tax and free shipping.
Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 178-8374 Direct Ignition Coil: Automotive
I hope this help.
#16
Hey guys. I'm not a regular here but I wanted to sign in and say I that I fixed my hesitation problem. I also suspected my plugs and coils but realized it was not the problem. I did not have a problem code.
I noticed the hesitation was only occurring when the engine was under a load... when I was accelerating or going uphill, without downshifting. I started browsing and I eventually found myself on youtube. I watched a few videos that directly pointed to my problem. THE EGR VALVE!
I pulled off the EGR valve, cleaned everything, and put it back on using the same gasket. My problem was fixed in about 30 minutes. It's been about a week and I haven't felt any hesitation.
This video shows that the EGR valve is switched when the engine is under a load.
So that got me thinking!!
Other Helpful videos:
It appears honda has a history with this problem. The same EGR valve has been used for years. Luckily, it's now easily accessible. I did not need to spend a penny to fix it. I just cleaned all ports and I was back in business!
Good Luck
I noticed the hesitation was only occurring when the engine was under a load... when I was accelerating or going uphill, without downshifting. I started browsing and I eventually found myself on youtube. I watched a few videos that directly pointed to my problem. THE EGR VALVE!
I pulled off the EGR valve, cleaned everything, and put it back on using the same gasket. My problem was fixed in about 30 minutes. It's been about a week and I haven't felt any hesitation.
This video shows that the EGR valve is switched when the engine is under a load.
So that got me thinking!!
Other Helpful videos:
It appears honda has a history with this problem. The same EGR valve has been used for years. Luckily, it's now easily accessible. I did not need to spend a penny to fix it. I just cleaned all ports and I was back in business!
Good Luck
Last edited by Mynodha; 11-03-2012 at 08:14 PM.
#17
I would not recommend advising anyone to use anti-seize on spark plugs for any engine unless the plug manufacturer or engine manufacturer recommends it. All plug threads I've seen are zinc plated steel which thread easily into aluminum or steel internal threads. The only time you should use anti-seize is if either your internal or external threads are rusted.
#18
Great!
Hey guys. I'm not a regular here but I wanted to sign in and say I that I fixed my hesitation problem. I also suspected my plugs and coils but realized it was not the problem. I did not have a problem code.
I noticed the hesitation was only occurring when the engine was under a load... when I was accelerating or going uphill, without downshifting. I started browsing and I eventually found myself on youtube. I watched a few videos that directly pointed to my problem. THE EGR VALVE!
I pulled off the EGR valve, cleaned everything, and put it back on using the same gasket. My problem was fixed in about 30 minutes. It's been about a week and I haven't felt any hesitation.
This video shows that the EGR valve is switched when the engine is under a load.
EGR Valve Operation (prevents engine pinging) - YouTube
So that got me thinking!!
Other Helpful videos:
P0401 EGR Valve Port Cleaning - YouTube
How to fix your low flow EGR Honda Civic - YouTube
P0401 Honda Accord, Cleaning EGR Passages - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
It appears honda has a history with this problem. The same EGR valve has been used for years. Luckily, it's now easily accessible. I did not need to spend a penny to fix it. I just cleaned all ports and I was back in business!
Good Luck
I noticed the hesitation was only occurring when the engine was under a load... when I was accelerating or going uphill, without downshifting. I started browsing and I eventually found myself on youtube. I watched a few videos that directly pointed to my problem. THE EGR VALVE!
I pulled off the EGR valve, cleaned everything, and put it back on using the same gasket. My problem was fixed in about 30 minutes. It's been about a week and I haven't felt any hesitation.
This video shows that the EGR valve is switched when the engine is under a load.
EGR Valve Operation (prevents engine pinging) - YouTube
So that got me thinking!!
Other Helpful videos:
P0401 EGR Valve Port Cleaning - YouTube
How to fix your low flow EGR Honda Civic - YouTube
P0401 Honda Accord, Cleaning EGR Passages - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
It appears honda has a history with this problem. The same EGR valve has been used for years. Luckily, it's now easily accessible. I did not need to spend a penny to fix it. I just cleaned all ports and I was back in business!
Good Luck
#20
Since I'll be under the hood sometime soon I'll pull the EGR valve off and check it..There is very light build up in the EGR ports and behind the cover. I guess I should replace the PCV also... I only have a little under 50,000 miles but over half has been with boost and no problems whatsoever. I wonder if anyone else has the original battery in a 2007 Fit purchased in July of 2006.