That is weird that its running in open loop and runs rough when cold. Something is really wrong. ECM should be in close loop when the blue light goes off. It goes into open loop at loads over 70 percent or full throttle and when you release the gas pedal coasting. the reason I said open loop at loads over 70 percent is based on the fuel. Premium will allow close loop operation at those loads. I've seen that on the dyno running 14.2 A/F through the rpm band with loads over 70 percent. Open loop is the default settings in the ecu but the fuel trims might be locked at last setting in long term. The map sensor might be bad and or the ecu. I would check for vacuum leaks and check the connectors of all the sensors. I would use a muti-meter and check the wires and sensors ruling them out. If all is good its the ecu. May be injector not plugged in or went bad. It can be a lot of things but I would get organized and rule things out.

 

Anyone ever consider the crank position sensor? I don't have a Fit but my neighbor does and is having these exact symptoms.

I'm assuming there's no device (i.e. ignition control module) between the coils and the ecu. Right?

Possibly a grounding issue with the ecu? Maybe a bad harness that can cause a failure of the coils over extended periods of time?

Just thinking out loud here.

Cheers,

 

First, having an OBD ii checker is the instrument ALL DIYers should have. Then:
1. if the crank sensor or other is at fault you find out quickly, if not suspect the coil paks and plugs. After all they do wear out (despite having no moving parts). And the checker TELLS that too.
2. As many posters attribute, replacing coil paks and plugs are major causes to cure stuttering and hesitation.

Guessing is no longer excuse for DIyers.

 

I know all about pulling the codes, just haven't had an opportunity. I did however jumper the OBD2 plug to get the blink codes. 71,72,73 and the elusive 75. 71-74 are cylinder misfires. I couldn't find any info on 75. A general sense of malaise? haha

Mahout, I'm sure it's the coils, history is proving that to be the case most of the time. I just hate to think that Honda hasn't recalled these things. 50K miles should not be the life span of a coil. It's stupid, to be polite.

I'm going to swap #1 and #4 coils to see if we blow a 74 blink code. Does anyone have resistance numbers for these coils? What should they be on the primary and secondary windings?

Booya,

 

I've actually had that happen once

 

For the last few months I was getting a slight hesitation with my 2007 Honda Fit Sport, which became more and more frequent. The car has 80,000 miles on it and never had new plugs so I replaced them. After replacing the plugs and gapped them to.044 I thought I had resolved the problem. A few days later the car started to misfire badly, when I hooked up my OBD2 scanned it showed misfiring on all cylinders 1-4. I took out all my coil packs and found that the spark was riding down the coil boot and shorting out on the outside base of the plugs. (I could see a burnt looking discoloration at the base of the white part of the spark plugs) I tried cleaning all the boots and using dielectric grease but it only made it worse. I went to my local parts store and ordered a set of coil boots ($18 a piece) installed them on my existing coil packs, applied a little dielectric compound inside each coil boot, and reinstalled. Been driving it 2 weeks now, all codes have cleared and it's been running fine.
I asked around several different parts stores before I was able to find one that had coil boots, they didn't have them in stock or showed they had ever sold any but the called up their distributor and were able to get them ordered.

 

Part numbers?!! What parts store? This is awesome, if it continues to work for you. Much cheaper option.

 

I got the boots at Advance Auto ,, They are Autopart Intl. Coil-On-Plug Boot PN- 2500-230854 and there is another set of numbers in case those don't work 36-2074

 

I had the same problem at 93k miles. Replaced one but still had the problem. Then replace the remaining three and the solved the problem. I'm now at 139k miles and running strong. If you have to replace one, might as well replace all of them.

 

I had the same problem, dealer could not fixed. See https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...c-problem.html

 

glad I found this post

pretty sure I have the coil problem. car is stuttering under load (low rpm / high gear)

It feels like if I would be in 5th gear / 10 mph and flooring the throttle. but this happen at 50 mph / 5th gear.

Every time I accelerate more than half throttle at 2k rpm, the car is hesitating

I have no CEL and I don't want to change all 4 coils as they are costly.

Anyway to know which coil in problematic?

 

If you have close to, or above, 50,000 miles you're probably right.
Several auto parts stores will check the codes for you at no cost.Howeever, you may get more than one coil 'bad' by code. While you're at it change all 4 plugs, too.

 

for the moment I don't have any CEL

I will remove the coils and inspect them

I'll keep you posted about this, car hace near 80K miles

 

What are you going to inspect?

 

i've been answered in another thread

You would want to look carefully at the coils, look for signs of arcing (electrical "tracks" on the outside), clean them and apply dielectric grease to reduce the possibility of a misfire.

 

Searching "coil replacement" resulted in 76 replies; the majority of whom agreed coil replacements solved stuttering and hesitation.
Without checking work orders I believe we have replaced coils and plugs on at least a half dozen Fits and all solved the hesitaion they complained about.
you should be aware that plugs and coil packs are expendable items and a life of 50,000 miles is typical. A good OBDII check will show problems with coil packs and most aftermarket parts outlets wil perform that check for free as they should just as we do.
Its also why the most indispensible tool in the DIY toolbox is now the OBDII checker. For around $50 its a real bargain.
Its unfortunate that manufacturers decided to use coil packs; there's no good reason for manufacturers to decide their customers should spend $500 every 50,000 miles for just a tune up. spark plugs for $10, but not $100 per coil pack. plus the labor.

 

do you mean that I would be able to check which coils is defect with the OBDII scanner even if I don't have any CEL on?

 

also what do you think about this coils set on ebay

2007 2008 New Set of 4 Ignition Coil on Plug Coils Pack for Honda Fit 1 5L UF581 | eBay

150$ for 4 coils shipping included

 

Yes. we often switch coil packs to recheck and sure enough the OBDFII knew it.

 

Betcha we are all GLAD we don't run 12-cylinder Bentleys....