Oh that reminds me that I have to replace the HVAC backlight bulb at some point too. Heat/Fan is easy enough in the dark but I can never remember which order the options are, and I constantly mix them up with the Miata's.

What kind of bulb did you use? From the parts diagram I found that it's supposed to be 79671-SAA-003 BULB, WEDGE (13.5V 150MA), but those seem to be pretty impossible to find, other than from Honda I suppose.

 

i ended up swapping them out again for some different blue LEDs, and good eye, lol, the bulbs for the AC amd defrost buttons just arrived, will install them later this evening and throw up another pic. for the ac/defrost, i ordered "t3 blue neo led wedge bulb" - 10 for $10.99. for the ac/defrost buttons, those LEDs needed dremeled and filed down to slip past the contacts, and even then, basically i had to bend the wires out from the socket piece so that they made contact, and then taped over top the bases of the bulbs. still wonky connection, so i ended up zip tying a quarter (it was the only thing i could find readily, lol) to the top and that forces the bulbs down and now they make contact all the time. , the bulbs in the first picture are "D-Lumina 10pack t5 led bulb blue dashboard dash light 1-smd 5050" - 10 for $8.05. the bulbs that are in there currently that are not pictured are "AUXLIGHT Ice Blue t5 37 74 2721 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb" - 10 for $8.98. - just keep in mind they are VERY bright, unsure if its conveyed appropriately in the picture. chances are, i am going to go back and layer something behind the dials to tone the lights down a bit. even when dimmed, yeah they dim, but bruh, like they only "technically" dim, not "really" dim

 

heres all the bulbs and the climate control as well as the gear selector. so bright at night lol

 

I just did a tyre rotation and decided to try slightly higher pressures, as the front tyres always look a bit squashed at the recommended pressures. Fronts are now 240 kPa (35 psi) and 220 kPa (32 psi) on the rear. Noticeable difference: lower rolling resistance, slightly more responsive steering, and even perceptibly different stance from inside. Still a bit squirrelly, though I think the steering has a slightly stronger centering tendency. You can feel uneven road surfaces more distinctly, yet it feels more cushioned on larger obstacles such as judder bars. Combined with the Liqui Moly Friction Reducer I added at the last oil change a couple of days ago, the car is noticeably more eager to move (and requires more braking on downhills!). Will see if it translates to better fuel economy.

mobby_6kl, sorry the Magic Seats aren't so magical on the EU model.

 

Where do I get the right red emblems for my GD3? I see people selling Type R to Accord to Civic red emblems? Which one fit the GD3?

 

I'm hoping this will notify derder200. His post looked like he has the answer. Anyways I'm a total noob, so sorry for any no-nos I do.... Back story... I put in a new radio ended up the A/C, defogger backlight needed a new bulb. Somehow I figured out what neo wedge LED it needed. I had the genius idea to remove the little blue condoms over the lights for the climate controls "so it would be brighter." AND OMG HUGE FUCK UP!. now its all orange.

Question: Can those little bulbs plop out of the plastic holders? they had wires attached to the plastic. I'm hoping to put LED's in but if I could go back to the condom bulbs that would be better then orange. Pretty sure they aren't a neo wedge, but before I go ordering all theses lights can that bulb be removed from the plastic holder? These are all the bulbs you mentioned. *I would like it to match the A/C, defogger*

Note: I only removed 2 or 3 of the condoms thats why the hot/cold knob looks better 🙃

1.) 79671-SAA-003 BULB, WEDGE (13.5V 150MA)
2.) t3 blue neo led wedge bulb
3.) D-Lumina 10pack t5 led bulb blue dashboard dash light 1-smd 5050
4.) AUXLIGHT Ice Blue t5 37 74 2721 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb

*Update*
figured out little blue condom lights are removable. I put 1 led (AUXLIGHT White T5 37 74 2721 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb, 3030 Chips Super Bright 12 Volt Replacements, Interior Dome Map Dashboard Indicator Instrument Panel Gauge Cluster Lamp Lights (Pack of 10)) in the center and OMG. Super bright.

 

Seems like that's the case! The seats look identical but maybe the seat backs are longer for taller Europeans? Or does it work on the US versions? Really strange. Oh well.

Thanks for the answers about the bulbs. T5s worked out for me:




Only replaced the two behind the HVAC dials, not the AC/defroster, which also appear dead but are a different type. Are those (35851-SAA-003) T3s?

Probably should've bought orange LEDs because these are very red, but that's fine.

 

I used this for the a/c I colored it blue.

Jtech 10x T3 Neo Wedge LED White Car Dashboard Instrument Cluster Panel, A/C Climate Control HVAC Switch Light Bulb

 

 

that looks really nice. where did you get all the stuff from?

 

Oriellys, 2 inch diameter filter.

 

does it make fun suck noises now?

 

Yup just like a chrome tube intake

 

This weekend I changed the spark plugs (as specified for the JDM L13A engine: eight NGK BKR6E-11 plugs, with anti-seize, torqued to 18 N m). In the past month the car had started to show some slight jerking/hesitation during low-RPM acceleration, and although the plugs only have about 17,000 km (11,000 miles) on them, I thought it could be worth replacing them, and this seems to have fixed it (I was worried it might be the CVT!). The service schedule says to replace the plugs every 2 years regardless of distance travelled, and I think that's probably wise: the front four were all a bit hard to break loose, despite the anti-seize (it's been almost 3 years since they were last replaced).

See below for images of the used plugs. I think they look OK: dry, light-tan coloured powdery appearance, though the rear plugs from cylinders 3 and 4 look a little darker and maybe slightly oily. Centre electrodes slightly rounded (some more than others), especially on the side nearest the strap electrode.

It's interesting that they should need replacement after such a short distance; the Honda service schedule says 40,000 km (24,000 miles) or 2 years, although this Denso article says that conventional plugs have a life of only 15,000-20,000 km. Could this be why these engines have a reputation for "eating" coils?


Old set of spark plugs removed

Close-up of the electrodes

 

Drove the VBP and ran it through a touchless wash today.

It amazes me how well the car aged with time compared to other local Fits. Not many take care of them and just run them down into the ground... Kinda sad to see but most see them as cheap or throwaway econoboxes now.

Also after recently running my VIN through the database at work, tomorrow is my VBP's production/build day. Making it officially 16 years old tomorrow.

 

I found the source of a buzzing sound that I'd get under acceleration that came from the driver side front corner of the car.
First noticed it after a tire change or alignment, and it bugged me for a long time as I worried I messed something up.

Turns out, it was just the hood prop making slight contact with the airbox and buzzing under load. Twisting it a bit to make sure it doesn't contact the airbox, sorted the problem.
So glad it was a free "fix" that puts a ton of fears to rest.

 

I found the source of a buzzing sound that I'd get under acceleration that came from the driver side front corner of the car.
First noticed it after a tire change or alignment, and it bugged me for a long time as I worried I messed something up.

Turns out, it was just the hood prop making slight contact with the airbox and buzzing under load. Twisting it a bit to make sure it doesn't contact the airbox, sorted the problem.
So glad it was a free "fix" that puts a ton of fears to rest.

That, and topped up the coolant as I was starting to get a sloshing sound (like when water goes through pipes) when I came to a stop at an incline (and it definitely wasn't the gas tank). Checked after digging here, and found my coolant was at the minimum line or just below it.
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i've been doing a heater core swap foe the past couple days. broke some parts. fixxable. but frustrating. definitely bit off more than i could chew with the amount of info available on first gen fit dash removal.but we got it off and we are approaching the goal. jsut gotta be patient. any tips other than what i know going into taking the evap core and assembly out would be appreciated.

 

are you still running the paper filter as well or I'm guessing just using the stock box as a chamber?