it was in the shop for three months

 

Installed my weapon-r intake manifold and installed my painted blue valve cover and installed vacuum block. Just put on some enkei rpf1 17x7. Was a busy week.

 

Did you notice any difference with the intake manifold? Tuned at all? I like how that part looks but I feel like it isn't going to do much of anything without some head work and a tune.

 

Well butt dyno feels like it smoother and has more power at top end and less at low end. def looks good but needs to be tuned. hopefully soon. I doubt if there are any gains it would be very little.

 

aaaaahhhhhh...^_^

 

i hear the weapon r intake manifolds work best with mid level boost(6-9psi) but i think j-crims thought on the exhaust manifold holds true with this too...anything is better than stock

 

Not intending to be rude but this statement doesn't make any sense.. in any context.

Typically you wave tune and adjust the plenum size for the volume the engine will demand at the point you've tuned the manifold for.

Boost is just a measure of the restriction posed by the engines swallowing capacity, which in this case is understood as the density of the charge.

You are changing VE with the manifold.

I also have my doubts on the R&D put into the Weapon R intake mani, and we've got several first hand accounts about the quality issues they suffer from.

If you are planning on running real boost like 15+ psi (1bar), or spending a lot of time north of 5k rpm I don't see any real incentive to lose the stock intake manifold. Because the surface area doesn't have to be great to exceed the limits of the stock plastic plenum/runners and you can see that VE, which is directly related to torque, and therefore power starts to tank well before redline.


For a daily driver, you will have sacrificed charge face velocity which is what creates effective cylinder filling and therefore torque. This fluid velocity is key and the manifold is a huge component of that, and I have more faith in the OE one than a random china manifold. They actually take harmonics into account.


This is one of the things I have been getting involved in for a while now. In the charge pipes, like the exhaust pipes you want a face velocity of between 200-300fps. For most applications you are aiming for <.5 mach number at the ports accounting for the pulses when they open and close.

Basically my point of contention is that the manifold is seeing the fluid (air in this case) in terms of volume (think CFM.) Boost is a measure of how dense the medium those CFM are made of.

200CFM at 14.7psia is the same physical volume as 200CFM at 29.4psia.

Unless you have a raised redline via AEM or a J's reflash you really won't see any advantage in a fancy SMIM. That is unless you need the sheet metal intake manifold to hold up to boost. Even metal intake manifolds start to balloon and fatigue over time.

 

finally installed the skunk2 springs that i bought off electrickoolguy about 5 months ago... about effing time! from the side it doesnt look that mch different but i can def tell the difference when im driving and by looking at the front lip clearance. im prob only 5 inches of the ground and they havent settled in yet...

 

oh sprayed her off at a local DIY car wash, bought a replacement Broadway mirror. this time went with 300mm convex and a replacement jdm beginner badge( i know its played out but i lost mine that ive had for the longest when my taffy got stolen in feb '11)

 

1) WeaponR only offers the sheet metal intake manifold for the GD Fit.

2)I do remember saying "from what ive heard". I wasnt looking at flow bench results or breaking down the physics of aerodynamics. lol ^_^

and

3) Forced induction creates more power because your increasing the volume of air coming in by compressing it, thus allowing more air in the same space, much the same way you compress electronic files to make more fit in the same space. In doing so, if your intake manifold is bottle necking this process, you wind up with a bunch of back pressure in the intake and you turbo becomes useless after a certain level of boost (PSI/Bar whichever you prefer) and while most factory intake manifolds wont run into this problem until high levels of boost, its always better to have your incoming and out going air movement as smooth and unrestricted as possible (to a degree...too little restriction can also cause issues especially with exhaust). In the end, an internal combustion engine is nothing more then a glorified air pump. The easier it is to get large volumes of air into the motor, the better it is going to run. As i mentioned before, ive only HEARD about the weaponR intake manifold but when it comes to the physics of it and flow bench testing and such, thats a WHOLE other beast from what i was on...^_^

 

Took the Fit for a little drive today

Im really starting to get the hang of driving manual, still need some seat time but im alot better then day one. Also took the car out to the freeway for a bit and wow I hit triple digits in no time..ops lol

 

Whoa! Finally. Well power/weight ratio on that thing changed drastically so yeah oops... for sure... Careful with the whiplash

 

I installed a starter, deleted a/c compressor, installed hybrid racing fuel rail, throttle body gasket, cleaned throttle body, assembled the entire intake manifold, replaced most oem bolts on the block with new oem ones, ordered k-tuned thermostat housing & upper coolant neck, and the ktuned hose that connects the two. all on my not so L15a..

 

That's pretty simplistic and yes the engine is an airpump, however you have got a lot of misunderstanding or misinformation in there. No where did I bring up the GE, and this is the What did you do to your GD thread.. are you confused?

And again, the hearsay statement
i hear the weapon r intake manifolds work best with mid level boost(6-9psi)


If you believe what you typed up there was in any form a rebuttal or explanation, I have a bridge to sell you. What you were repeating was in no way a physically accurate depiction, and yet you are continuing to defend that statement. Also, this is about fluid dynamics not aerodynamics. The physics behind it is crucial.

There's far more to it than simply "restriction" which is measured by boost, and 6psi on a T25 is not equivalent to 6psi on a GT2554R nor a 16G nor a GT4088R. That same 6psi on a given turbo will change from engine to engine as well.

Being useless above a certain boost pressure has to do with compressor efficiency and the heat that results from the compression. This is purely a function of the turbo its self, and can be tweaked with a proper charge cooler and a fuel up to the job. You really should refrain from speaking about stuff you clearly do not fully understand.

The whole reason I even commented was because I am sick of the assumptions and misinformation spread on this forum. Intentionally or otherwise.

Stop sharing things you've heard, this goes for others as well. It helps no one. Understanding VE and how you actually get the air in and out of the engine is what will lead to performance.

Otherwise everyone would be running around with the biggest plenum and shortest fattest runners they could fit. The reality is that doesn't actually help. Just jumping ship to a larger manifold in many cases does not help. This is the sort of thing I work with everyday.

Edit: Because I missed it earlier.. you are not making more power with forced induction because you are increasing the volume. The volume is fixed, unless you raise redline. Boost is changing the density of that volume. You are increasing mass flow, not volume. A 1.5L engine with a fixed redline can only swallow so much volume, like CFM. Boost is increasing the density contained in those CFM.

Even with our two intake cam lobe profiles, and 4 valves we do not see 100% VE on our motors, few in fact do. Next to none of those are in a mass produced vehicle. The intake manifold is simply one of the parts that dictates where our VE peaks and how long it stays there. All you are doing with the W-R manifold is shifting the curve to the right, and not necessarily increasing it, and certainly not if you have the stock redline, cams and exhaust system behind it.

 

That is one thing I've learned.

When it comes to turbo related things, or anything else involving engine/trans, DSM is the guy on this site; I keep my mouth shut, read his post, and LEARN.

When it comes to wheels/aero/aesthetics THEN I will give my opinion/critique, but when I'm out of my element, I stop lol.

 

Here... Hear... Aye aye to that! And TC will call it like he sees it...

 

Ok but at this point its all symatics that i never even intended in my original comment. All i was saying is that frrom what i had read/heard, which is only a little bit, the weaponR I.M. works best on F.I. cars, nothing more. and btw

"There's far more to it than restriction and 6psi on a T25 is not equivalent to 6psi on a GT2554R nor a 16G nor a GT4088R"

^never said that...lol
but lets just end this pointless debate already...im not calling anyone out and it wasnt cool to try and school me on the science of F.I. off of a small innocent comment...and lets just leave it at that

 

^^^ what this guy said. I have the manifold I bought it because I needed to bring out my engine bay because it is a show car. If I really wanted power I'd step it up and get a k20. No sense in giving a lesson on some silly conversation we are having.

 

Yes how dare we approach something from a factual perspective on a forum where people are quick to throw out non-sense and then others regurgitate it down the line.

Why on earth would we want to have to think about what we are saying.

 

Sorry guys, no slam intended on my part. Just experience-based post readings... and I read a lot of posts... Just check my sig link.