Just so you know, ALL torque readings are based on clean & lightly lubricated threads, per any SAE manual. to remove any torque caused by the threads from keeping the two parts from being mated properly..

 

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some guys slather them with grease or use motor oil and break studs.. just keeping that from happening

 

Thanks everyone. I got a replacement nut of the proper type from AutoZone, as well as a 19mm socket for my bar torque wrench.

As well as replacing the incorrect nut, I took off all the existing nuts (one at a time of course), put a squirt of the green grease on the contact surface of the wheel and threads of the stud, and replaced the nut, tightening to 80-90 foot pounds.

Some of the lug nuts that were tightened with the impact wrench at the shop came off with maybe 90-100 foot pounds torque, but at least five of them wouldn't budge when i was maxing out my torque wrench, so I had to switch to the spare tire wrench, and literally stand and bounce up and down on the handle of that.. Those nuts came of with a decently loud "Crack!" sound.. like the threads were unlubricated as well as overtightened. The spare tire wrench is about a foot long and I weigh 165 pounds, combined with me having to put all my weight on the wrench and bounce a bit, that must be well clear of 200 foot pounds to untighten some of the shop tightened nuts.


Anyway, hopefully the studs are OK, and the nuts are now all the right type and torqued to spec.

 

It is normal for it to take 10% gtreater torque to remove a nut than it took to set it.
One of the worst things tire mounters do it to use an impact wrench to set lugnuts to required torque. Even when the wrench is 'set' to a given value it often applies 20% gtreater value when the nut is run to finish in one shot. that also means the wheel will be unbalanced in forces and can easily lead to warped rotors. Especially if the alternating sequence isn't followed.
Our procedure here is setting the nut at 20-25 lbft and finish with a hand held torque wrench.Hasn't failed yet,
If one lugnut is tightened to 150 Lb-ft and an opposite to 75 Lb-ft there is a good chance the rotor will warp under heat cycling.

 

wtf unbalanced forces, bs. you could run with 3 lugs and not know a thing (but don't do that obviously!) rotors aren't mounted to the rim either, fail

 

^ yeah but lugnuts still clamp rim to rotor, which can still make them warp with heat and improper torque