I am posting this so that others can avoid my frustrations on this subject. I live in the Bay Area, which gets no snow. I drive at most once or twice per year in the snow (when going to the mountains). I have the all-season OEM Dunlops on my 2007 Fit. My other car runs summer-only performance tires.

This year, I planned a trip over a few mountain passes that require you to carry chains and often require you to put on your chains unless you have a 4wd. So I punched in the OEM tire size (195/55-15) and bought the recommended cable chains (type 1030). When I went to put them on for a ski trip, they were extremely loose and obviously would not work at all. I went to three different tire and auto parts stores without any luck. I tried on four different kinds of cable chains before finding ones that fit. I checked two or three different manufacturers, but in each case the cables were too loose, even on the tightest setting (they are all called 1030, even though they are made by different companies). Finally, I started experimenting with cable chains designed for smaller tires. The first set I tried (1018) was too tight. Then I tried the 1026, which seemed to work, so I bought them. I haven't had to use them yet, but they seem to be the right size.

Has anyone else had a similar experience? Perhaps the OEM Dunlops are much smaller than other 195/55-15 tires. I just wanted to share in case others end up in a similar position.

Thanks.

Search Terms for Future Use: snow tires, snow chains, tire chains, cable chains, snow cables, tire cables.

 

Sorry to jack this thread, but they make you put snow chains on?!? Why!?!? I'm from North Dakota and have spent a great amount of time in the mountains of Montana and I've never heard of such a thing. I don't think that semi-trucks have to use them either, and some of the passes in Big Sky country are ridiculously terrible when snow falls.

 

There are three classification levels in CA, depending on the conditions:

Requirement One (R1): Chains, traction devices or snow tires are required on the drive axle of all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles.

Requirement Two (R2): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels.
(NOTE: Four wheel/all wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.)

Requirement Three (R3): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions.

Caltrans Winter Driving Tips Chain Controls

I think the idea is that with heavy traffic flow, one car that gets stuck because it can't make it up a hill will cause massive traffic delays for everyone. It is geared at the lowest common denominator, meaning someone with bald tires from the coast who has never driven in the snow trying to drive in the mountains.

 

I came across the Fit Freak website today while looking for tire chains for my 2008 Fit Sport MT. I'm staying with the P195/55 R15 OEM tire size as anything wider would further reduce clearance between front suspension strut and tire. The Honda owner's manual indicates Class-S chains are needed because of the tight clearance.

In general, most snow chains are made of either chains or cables. Traditional chains provide the greatest traction and durability but are heavy and rougher riding. Cable chains are smoother riding and lighter. Both types are available in a simple ladder pattern or in more effective diagonal and diamond patterns.

I found three retailers that offer good choices for my Fit:

Costco.com offers the diamond pattern chain SCC Eurotech Alloy; for $55 (inc s&h but not tax). Also included are tighteners, mat, gloves, and repair links in a plastic case.

Tirechains.com offers a number of choices but I liked their Diagonal Cable for $50 (plus $13 for s&h to Las Vegas, tensioning device not included) and Low Profile diamond chain for $80 (plus $18 s&h, tensioning device is included). The Low Profile chain is rated Sub-S for even tighter clearances than Class-S.

VulcanTire.com offers a number of choices but I liked their SCC Super Z-6 diagonal cable for $69 (plus $8 for s&h, also Sub-S; includes tensioner and storage bag) and the diamond chain Thule CB-12 for $69 (inc s&h, includes tensioner and case).

I've decided on the Costco diamond chain based on cost and convenience. I'll try it at home and if it doesn't clear the suspension strut or otherwise fit well, then I can return it to any Costco and then buy my second choice, the SCC Super Z-6 diagonal cable which should have plenty of clearance. I'll let you know how they fit and how they work (if I get to the snow).

On a different note, we in the southwest USA are generally not as experienced in snow driving as in other parts of the country. And, as pointed out by another, many cars are not maintained to a level necessary for safe snow driving because they live in LA, SF, or where ever, but sometimes end up in snow country anyway. But I think there are additional reasons for our strict snow driving regulations. Our significant populations and topography are responsible for steep, convoluted, and heavily-traveled mountain roads. Combine this with our low latitude causes large variations in temperature and precipitation. As a result, I've often driven over alternating snow, ice, wet and dry pavement.

cmobi
2008 Fit Sport MT
Best 47 mpg so far

 

so glad it does not snow in Florida

 

is it Laclede brand? i need to buy one, so let me know soon thx.



Dayak

 

I think they may have been LaClede (the ones that didn't fit). The ones that work are called Cobra chains.

 

1026 did not work either, it was too tight. For 1030, it is kinda weird, it was loose, very loose. so i think it should be in between 1026 and 1030 which my guess is 1028? anybody?


Dayak

 

Do you have the OEM 195-55/15 tires? You might try Autozone's 1026. That is where I got mine.

 

I have the SCC z-cables with carrying case and everything, S-clearance rated. I honestly have never had to use them. I carry them when I go to tahoe but it's been dry this year, no need. Always good to keep a set with you though. I have a set for smaller rims too. I wonder what my clearance is lookin like Lowered and with a full ride.

I was told not to run anything but super low clearance SCC cables. Also, on all my cars I have ever used for snow, it is good to buy extra rubber tensioners, that way if anything breaks, it shoots the chains off the car rather than wrap around the driveline. I have had a few sets break over the years from constant use from weekly trips.

And chain controls are used in mountain passes. Mainly so people can stop. The grades on highway 80 and 50 along with windiness of 50 and 89 you go off a cliff without chains. I have seen more 4wd accidents from overconfidence than anything. Most ever was 13 SUVs in ONE trip, including a 4 runner sliding down 80 upside down on its roof.

Cali Drivers for the most part aren't used to the snow, or the speed limit, so high speed+inexperience in snow+tires without chains=accidents

 

I live in the mountains of southern California, where, believe it or not, we do get snow (we had two snows over 3' this last winter). I also lived in Alaska for 4 years. There is a huge difference in the snow conditions.

In AK (and ND), the temperature tends to stay below freezing, and packed snow for the most part doesn't get too icy. Here, the temperature can easily swing 20 degrees across the freezing piont between day and night, with constant thawing and refreezing that makes for treacherous road conditions. The other difference is that where you are, people probably put on winter tires in the fall. Most of us did in Alaska. In CA, it's difficult to even find winter tires, and because even those of us who live in the mountains are often in lower elevations on dry roads, keeping winter tires on isn't very practical.

I've watched dozens of cocky midwesterners end up in ditches because they knew they could drive in snow better than stupid Californians. Well, they might be better (certainly than most Californians), but not on the snow conditions we often get here. I commute off the mountain every day, and in the winter I (usually) avoid the chain requirements because I drive a 4WD CRV in the winter. I still have to carry chains (cables) and occasionally am required to put them on.

I had chains for my 2WD cars in Alaska, but never once in four years did I need them, even when driving in the mountains. I also drove the Alcan in early winter (1200 miles of gravel, back then), and I didn't need chains there, either. Here, sometimes I have, even with 4WD. It isn't that we can't drive, the conditions really are different.

 

This past winter I got a set of Snow grips,they work well in the snow and ice. used them in Albany and Woodstock. for 90 bucks they are cheap enough to keep in the trunk.

Snow Grip Tire Traction Aid

 

How do you like those? I was wondering about those because they seem like they wouldn't damage the car as much. I didn't drive far on my chains, but having a lowered fit with chains is all bad. These sock things look like they would be much better on the car, but do they really help traction at all? I was really curious, but got a good deal on the SCC Z chains 50bux or so, which are really durable. I am just afraid I am gonna have to lift the car back up if I use it for the snow anymore. There really isn't any clearance.

 

They worked great! I got love the fact that they don't bang around in the trunk and are 100% washable. First time I used them they were a little tricky to put on but the second time around was simple.

 

We have a place in the NC mountains near Chimney Rock and we have to plow thru snow sometimes. We have 175/65x15 tires with matching chains if we need them for the backroads. The chains fit as the tires are a little larger in dia than stock but so far haven't needed them.

 

Good to know. I used to go to tahoe once a week at least in my old hyundai elantra and it really was a great snow car. FWD, no torque, decent HP to get up the hills quickly, you could always reel it in and make it everywhere, even when friends in SUVs with 4WD. The old chains got a lot of use when it was really dumping, but FWD do great in snow. Only crashed 2 times in snow(as a passenger, not driver, riding with my buddy who has lived up there almost 10 years now. One was head-on on 50 near strawberry, and it totaled bouth suvs involved, lucky to even survive I didn't even have a scratch, and the whole car outside was thrashed. Every crash up there is from heavy SUVs with too much inertia. The hyundai rarely ever needed chains with the all-seasons, which ran like a champ even in snow and ice. I'm surprised how well the fit did with so little power last year, but in snow and ice, HP is usualy the easiest way to spin out.

I was really curious about the snow sock things, but figured z-chains are probably still better on hardcore ice with fresh dusting of snow on top. I may try the socks next year, snow traction is something I need to see for myself to trust it, ya know. If you ever get any snow videos in the future please post em up.

 

i have to agree with the socal juggalo

 

Hella NorCal