07 FiT Quick Jerks @ 60mph
#41
Finally got a check engine light breifly appearing last night, so i will take it into the shop with a copy of this page. Shes got a warrenty to 90,000. I'm sure they will try to bend me over anyway, but hopefully i can atleast get the parts for free (while paying for the labor, which is more expensive than the parts - which is usually the way these warrentys work).
Brief flashes of 'check engine' light are not a good indication of a problem as would be staying on for 10 sec or more. And tha's what the cealer may tell you.
If you have less than 50,000 miles and his check indicates problem with coil packs its a warranty item because it affects emissions.
#42
Took it in, they found and replaced one bad coil pack. Problem is still occuring so there is probally another bad coilpack in there somewhere. Going to call them on tuesday and have to take it in again. Fortunatly its still under warrenty.
#43
It sounds to me like it is time for a transmission fluid change and new filter. I had the same problem in a G.M. product. It is trying to shift down a gear. Try driving a gear lower at the same R.P.M. and you will see that it doesn't do it if I am right.
#45
I have the same problem. What it feels like is that the car jerks front and back, and it mainly happens at 60pmh in 5th gear where the rpm's are real low. It feels like the car is misfiring or something. Once i was driving, i got a big one then i saw my engine check light flashing.... after about 5 seconds it turned off so i could not diagnose it.
I sometimes get it when i'm standing at a stop light too, it feels like the engine mis-fires. I have also had it a couple times where the engine actually shut off on me when i stepped on the gas during one of these what i call "hiccups" of a mis-fire. I still have not resolved the problem. It also happens a lot more often (once every couple of seconds) when the A/C is on. I think it might be one of my coil packs going bad but until i get a solid CEL, i cannot dianose which one it is.
I sometimes get it when i'm standing at a stop light too, it feels like the engine mis-fires. I have also had it a couple times where the engine actually shut off on me when i stepped on the gas during one of these what i call "hiccups" of a mis-fire. I still have not resolved the problem. It also happens a lot more often (once every couple of seconds) when the A/C is on. I think it might be one of my coil packs going bad but until i get a solid CEL, i cannot dianose which one it is.
I thought it was the Trans Fluid being low or some thing and did a Changed the ATF fluid but that did not solve the problem, so i decided to take it to the dealer since it still under warranty.
They ran a diagnostic on the engine (cost me 175) and told me that the "ignition coil was misfiring and needed to be replaced (covered in warranty)"
i am guessing that your coils need to be swapped out as well.
is this an easy DIY?
#47
I may be crazy here.. but if there were people who fixed their "misfire" issues with the coil packs, I wish there were a survey that asked what coil packs have failed and perhaps there is a trend.
I realize that all of the coils are the same part number and do the exact same thing and are all subject to manufacturing tolerances (and Monday and Friday manufacturing days!)...
but if someone doesn't have a Check Engine light or OBD-II code flagged, and doesn't want to replace 4 coils at once, it would be cool to start replacing them in the order most probable to fail (from historic Fit/coil failures).
Who knows.. maybe certain coil positions fail more due to somethig they are closer to (heat), etc.
I realize it is a stretch..
If I knew how to setup surveys I would probably make one for this!
Without this info, its either replace them all or start with the easy ones (not that it is nearly as bad as a 4.3L Astro Van rear spark plug change)!
I realize that all of the coils are the same part number and do the exact same thing and are all subject to manufacturing tolerances (and Monday and Friday manufacturing days!)...
but if someone doesn't have a Check Engine light or OBD-II code flagged, and doesn't want to replace 4 coils at once, it would be cool to start replacing them in the order most probable to fail (from historic Fit/coil failures).
Who knows.. maybe certain coil positions fail more due to somethig they are closer to (heat), etc.
I realize it is a stretch..
If I knew how to setup surveys I would probably make one for this!
Without this info, its either replace them all or start with the easy ones (not that it is nearly as bad as a 4.3L Astro Van rear spark plug change)!
Over the years we've had our share of customers complaining of hesitation in their driving. The great majority of solutions were ignition related: bad spark plug, bad ignition wire, bad distributor points and/or contacts, and lately spark plugs or coil packs.
hate to say it but coil packs have to be the most negative improvement I've seen in automotive engineering in 50 years. I think the damn things are not very good even brand new and certaily after 30,000 miles. And cost way too damn much.
If replacing the spark plugs and coil pack(s) don't cure hesitation then suspect the ECU. We really haven't seen much of a problem from sensors; any problem from those have generally been more serious and easier isolated than intermittent ignition firing. Its easy not to be picked up on OBD either simply because the intermittent just isn't consistent enough to register. Bad gas of course can be a culprit by not being as easily ignited as good gas but thats usuably consistent enough to register. Its also a good reason the clean up deposits in the combustion chamber including the spark plug with a good non-alcohol injection cleaner once month. Wally World's cost about a buck and is an inexpensive maintenance item.
Last edited by mahout; 06-09-2010 at 01:15 PM.
#48
I have asked about what kind of transmission, octane rating of fuel, driving style and conditions the drivers with coil pack problems may have in common.... I can't help but think that high under hood temperatures could be a contributing factor in the failure of coil packs.
#49
High underhood temperatures
I've replaced all the plugs and all the coil packs and still have the same issue. High underhood temperatures at idle seems to correlate. The scanguage shows 108F or higher on the induction air reading when it happens. If I see higher than 108, I expect them to show up 95% of the time.
#50
I've replaced all the plugs and all the coil packs and still have the same issue. High underhood temperatures at idle seems to correlate. The scanguage shows 108F or higher on the induction air reading when it happens. If I see higher than 108, I expect them to show up 95% of the time.
Induction air is inflow to the manifold, correct?. With hood closed and warm summer day that isn't unreasonable.
Check your ignition wires
Check your throttle position sensor
Check your intake air temp sensor
Check your ECU
#51
It's the air being drawn into the intake manifold under the hood. Ambient seems to need to be over about 60 degrees. The best way to get it to happen is to drive it until the engine is nice and hot and then park it out of the wind for about 20 minutes. Then it often does it as soon as you start it back up.
The question I have is: What else would malfunction due to high temperature? Electrical, fuel, emissions, vacuum?
The question I have is: What else would malfunction due to high temperature? Electrical, fuel, emissions, vacuum?
Last edited by HaulSmall; 06-14-2010 at 11:13 PM.
#54
If the coils are not getting enough voltage the ignition dwell time is not long enough for them to produce a strong spark..... If they receive too much of a charge they will overheat and fail prematurely.... The ECU controls the amount (rate) of charge to the coils based on charge voltage and RPM.... The factory ECU settings are for the stock coils, after market coils may require a reset of the ECU for proper dwell.... At high RPM the dwell time is shortened and if the coils weren't get a proper charge would cause the same type of misfire as would occur with too much spark plug gap but shouldn't cause idle miss fire..... It seems to me that the coils that are failing is due to shorter dwell time from too much current causing the premature failure.
#55
I've had the stutter/rough idle issue, it was coil packs and a valve adjust that made it all go away. It took about a year to figure it out. I would suggest a shorter interval for the valve adjust, as an out-of whack valve will make the ECU operate the coil pack out of spec and likely burn it out. I'm gonna get my next valve adjust at a 50k interval instead of 100k. Cost me less than a new set of coils.
2007 Silver Fit Sport MT (150k this week!)
2007 Silver Fit Sport MT (150k this week!)
#56
I've had the stutter/rough idle issue, it was coil packs and a valve adjust that made it all go away. It took about a year to figure it out. I would suggest a shorter interval for the valve adjust, as an out-of whack valve will make the ECU operate the coil pack out of spec and likely burn it out. I'm gonna get my next valve adjust at a 50k interval instead of 100k. Cost me less than a new set of coils.
2007 Silver Fit Sport MT (150k this week!)
2007 Silver Fit Sport MT (150k this week!)
#57
I was having both a stutter and a rough idle/stalling problem. the coil pack replacement made the stutter go away (got so bad I couldn't drive it) but the rough idle and stalling continued. After I got the valve adjust the stars aligned and my car ran like new. Seems like the two problems were getting worse in tandem.
#60
just hopped on this thread my 07 fit 48k miles M/T does the same as well but its rare, usually cruising from 60-68, after 68+ it hits vtec and doesn't do it that often, i felt like it was a gust of wind, be that i do have a roof rack. i wasn't sure if that was the case. like some of the other guys here said, no change in RPM, just like a hiccup.