man that would be a really good sub. it would go really nice with my infinity kappa perfects.

 

750? screw that just make it yourself.. the only reason i dont have a system in my fit is because.. i use my hatch for quickies?

 

You fit Perfects in the doors of the fit, How did you mount it or space it. They have big magnets. If only they had the stealthbox by itself you could put a DVC perfect sub in there and it would be killer sound, small space, and very OEMish

 

$599 shipped on Crutchfield now!

 

For the people with JL 10W3's, how are the lows when the bass hit? I know some subs doesn't get low enough to hit the deep notes. I am looking for a new sub, and I would rather go with 12's to get that deep note than a 10 without. Any feedbacks will be appreciated!

 

10s can hit just as deep as 12s. As long as the driver stays in a sealed box and can hit 20hz, that's as low as your ear can even hear anyway. I would think a 10w3v3 should provide plenty of low end in a fit. The car acts like a big sub box since it's a hatchback anyway. I always run 12s in my cars tho, all about surface area for maximum thump. I dunno if I would run 12s in the fit tho, it would probably rattle apart.

 

What about a 10w6? I just got one for free and haven't had a chance to hook it up yet. If it doesn't hit deep enough with the setup I have (jl 500/1), I rather just get rid of it.

 

If you have a 500w RMS amp hooked to a 10w6 you are over-driving the speaker. Crank it up and you can watch the surround tear and pop the magnet out of the casing. Most people with 10w6 run like 250rms, since they peak at 400rms. Overdriving subs can make them sound like shit. Plus the type of enclosure makes a huge difference. And the sensitivity is like 85db on them, so they are not very efficient for the amount of power that you give them.

Using an Infinity sub or Kicker in a small sealed enclosure you get much more sound for your wattage. And for most stereo installs, unless you are going for serious beat, 300RMS is plenty of power for good sound in the bass dept. running a monobloc digital amp stable to 1 ohm is also the best way to go, as you can run higher current, without killing your headlights/battery. Digital amps with high sensitivity subs meant for small enclosures are optimum for tight installs.

 

Interesting you said that, maybe I didn't clarify it's 10W6v2. The Max RMS the JL site recommend was at 600W so I'm assuming 500W should be ok? Either way, going to look into it a little more. Thanks for the info though.