Aftermarket Wheels with Stock Suspension
#1
Aftermarket Wheels with Stock Suspension
I'm in the market for aftermarket wheels, and it's my first time buying wheels that are not OEM spec, so please bear with me.
My 08 GD3 has stock suspension, and I'd like to keep it that way. I have no desire to track the car, but I do use it as a daily.
I've been looking for white wheels to go with my blaze metallic orange Fit. The options available to me in Ontario, Canada are somewhat limited compared to the States.
The wheels that I’ve been eyeing are the following:
- Konig Hexaforms, 15x7.5 +35
- Konig Dial Ins, 15x7 +35
- Avid1 AV8s, 15x6.5 +35
- Sparco FF1s, 15x7 +35
- OZ Racing Superturismo WRC, 15x6.5, +43
If I was in the States, I would love a set of Rota Slipstreams/Grids, but no US company that sells them ships to Canada.
Based on my research, it seems like a wheel width of 7.5” is as high as you can go without needing modifications to the suspension. Due to the increased width, 7.5” wheels are usually fitted on 205/50s, while 7” and 6.5” wheels fit on stock 195/55 tires.
I called a local tire and wheel shop yesterday to inquire about stock, pricing, etc., and they put a bit of fear in me by saying that the Hexaforms might be too aggressive for the car, and a camber adjustment and/or aftermarket coilovers might be required. The guy I was speaking to suggested something with a high, near OEM offset, but most of the options I've found (and all of the ones except the OZ Racing above) are +35.
I want to keep costs down as the car isn't getting any younger. I simply want white, ideally lightweight wheels that fit on a set of tires that I can slap on to the car without playing around with the suspension. I'm aware that the AV8s aren't much lighter than stock, and the Superturismos are actually heavier.
I’d love to hear your take on this. Would I be able to run these listed wheel options without any suspension mods? I've plugged in the numbers into willtheyfit.com and everything looks good from my amateur eyes, which isn't saying much. For example, the Hexaforms on 205/50r15s would have an inner rim that is 4.1mm closer to the suspension strut, an outer rim that pokes out 34.1mm more than before, and a speedo error of 1.62%. Seems okay to me?
TIA!
My 08 GD3 has stock suspension, and I'd like to keep it that way. I have no desire to track the car, but I do use it as a daily.
I've been looking for white wheels to go with my blaze metallic orange Fit. The options available to me in Ontario, Canada are somewhat limited compared to the States.
The wheels that I’ve been eyeing are the following:
- Konig Hexaforms, 15x7.5 +35
- Konig Dial Ins, 15x7 +35
- Avid1 AV8s, 15x6.5 +35
- Sparco FF1s, 15x7 +35
- OZ Racing Superturismo WRC, 15x6.5, +43
If I was in the States, I would love a set of Rota Slipstreams/Grids, but no US company that sells them ships to Canada.
Based on my research, it seems like a wheel width of 7.5” is as high as you can go without needing modifications to the suspension. Due to the increased width, 7.5” wheels are usually fitted on 205/50s, while 7” and 6.5” wheels fit on stock 195/55 tires.
I called a local tire and wheel shop yesterday to inquire about stock, pricing, etc., and they put a bit of fear in me by saying that the Hexaforms might be too aggressive for the car, and a camber adjustment and/or aftermarket coilovers might be required. The guy I was speaking to suggested something with a high, near OEM offset, but most of the options I've found (and all of the ones except the OZ Racing above) are +35.
I want to keep costs down as the car isn't getting any younger. I simply want white, ideally lightweight wheels that fit on a set of tires that I can slap on to the car without playing around with the suspension. I'm aware that the AV8s aren't much lighter than stock, and the Superturismos are actually heavier.
I’d love to hear your take on this. Would I be able to run these listed wheel options without any suspension mods? I've plugged in the numbers into willtheyfit.com and everything looks good from my amateur eyes, which isn't saying much. For example, the Hexaforms on 205/50r15s would have an inner rim that is 4.1mm closer to the suspension strut, an outer rim that pokes out 34.1mm more than before, and a speedo error of 1.62%. Seems okay to me?
TIA!
#3
General rule of thumb per forum member "mahout".
With that said... can you go with a lower offset of the mid 30 range? Yes... BUT you're increasing your chances of encountering tire rub depending on tire size, wheel alignment, and if the car has cargo/passengers.
For example - When running my former autocross GD's street/transit wheels (15x7 ET+35 w/ 205/50R15s) on my daily beater GD, the rear tires will always rub the rear bumper's mounting tabs on hard bumps or during hard cornering.
That same wheel set combined with a 3mm wheel spacer (offset now +32mm) on the autocross car (in my signature) will not rub what-so-ever thanks to my alignment, which the torsion beam was shimmed to -2.5 degrees of camber (you can get away with a lot less, around the -1.5 to -1.8 mark as a start). These wheels of the front of either car do not rub at all as the front clearances aren't nearly as tight. One can easily tuck the front fender liners and/or install camber bolts to aid clearance if needed.
My general rule of thumb is similar to mahout's. Try to find a wheel no wider than 7 inches, that is around +42mm offset, and run either a 195/55 or a 205/50 just to keep things civil and simple if you don't want to deal shimming to alter the beam's alignment (which itself isn't hard... just tedious).
1. Any wheel with 42 to 48 mm minimum offset will install with out rubbing on an undropped suspension Fit: 15x7, 16x7, 17x7 with tires max section 205, i.e. 205/50x15, 205/45x16, 205/40x17 tires. Max tread width 7".
2. Stick with tires about 23.5" diameter to avoid problems with ground clearance and inside fender interference or speedo/odo significant errors. All the above are good.
3. Any wheel with 45 to 48 mm offset will install without rubbing on a reasonably dropped suspension Fit: 15x7, 16x7, 17x7 with tire sizes above.
4. If seller doesn't certify the fitment also check the hub bore is 58 mm or 2 and 5/16". 57 mm may work too, but not 56 mm. And, of course, check for caliper clearances.
Anyone found wheel/tire combos outside these limits to work? We'd like to know.
If you choose narrower or smaller tires there is some room for less offset but not much.
2. Stick with tires about 23.5" diameter to avoid problems with ground clearance and inside fender interference or speedo/odo significant errors. All the above are good.
3. Any wheel with 45 to 48 mm offset will install without rubbing on a reasonably dropped suspension Fit: 15x7, 16x7, 17x7 with tire sizes above.
4. If seller doesn't certify the fitment also check the hub bore is 58 mm or 2 and 5/16". 57 mm may work too, but not 56 mm. And, of course, check for caliper clearances.
Anyone found wheel/tire combos outside these limits to work? We'd like to know.
If you choose narrower or smaller tires there is some room for less offset but not much.
For example - When running my former autocross GD's street/transit wheels (15x7 ET+35 w/ 205/50R15s) on my daily beater GD, the rear tires will always rub the rear bumper's mounting tabs on hard bumps or during hard cornering.
That same wheel set combined with a 3mm wheel spacer (offset now +32mm) on the autocross car (in my signature) will not rub what-so-ever thanks to my alignment, which the torsion beam was shimmed to -2.5 degrees of camber (you can get away with a lot less, around the -1.5 to -1.8 mark as a start). These wheels of the front of either car do not rub at all as the front clearances aren't nearly as tight. One can easily tuck the front fender liners and/or install camber bolts to aid clearance if needed.
My general rule of thumb is similar to mahout's. Try to find a wheel no wider than 7 inches, that is around +42mm offset, and run either a 195/55 or a 205/50 just to keep things civil and simple if you don't want to deal shimming to alter the beam's alignment (which itself isn't hard... just tedious).
#4
General rule of thumb per forum member "mahout".
With that said... can you go with a lower offset of the mid 30 range? Yes... BUT you're increasing your chances of encountering tire rub depending on tire size, wheel alignment, and if the car has cargo/passengers.
For example - When running my former autocross GD's street/transit wheels (15x7 ET+35 w/ 205/50R15s) on my daily beater GD, the rear tires will always rub the rear bumper's mounting tabs on hard bumps or during hard cornering.
That same wheel set combined with a 3mm wheel spacer (offset now +32mm) on the autocross car (in my signature) will not rub what-so-ever thanks to my alignment, which the torsion beam was shimmed to -2.5 degrees of camber (you can get away with a lot less, around the -1.5 to -1.8 mark as a start). These wheels of the front of either car do not rub at all as the front clearances aren't nearly as tight. One can easily tuck the front fender liners and/or install camber bolts to aid clearance if needed.
My general rule of thumb is similar to mahout's. Try to find a wheel no wider than 7 inches, that is around +42mm offset, and run either a 195/55 or a 205/50 just to keep things civil and simple if you don't want to deal shimming to alter the beam's alignment (which itself isn't hard... just tedious).
With that said... can you go with a lower offset of the mid 30 range? Yes... BUT you're increasing your chances of encountering tire rub depending on tire size, wheel alignment, and if the car has cargo/passengers.
For example - When running my former autocross GD's street/transit wheels (15x7 ET+35 w/ 205/50R15s) on my daily beater GD, the rear tires will always rub the rear bumper's mounting tabs on hard bumps or during hard cornering.
That same wheel set combined with a 3mm wheel spacer (offset now +32mm) on the autocross car (in my signature) will not rub what-so-ever thanks to my alignment, which the torsion beam was shimmed to -2.5 degrees of camber (you can get away with a lot less, around the -1.5 to -1.8 mark as a start). These wheels of the front of either car do not rub at all as the front clearances aren't nearly as tight. One can easily tuck the front fender liners and/or install camber bolts to aid clearance if needed.
My general rule of thumb is similar to mahout's. Try to find a wheel no wider than 7 inches, that is around +42mm offset, and run either a 195/55 or a 205/50 just to keep things civil and simple if you don't want to deal shimming to alter the beam's alignment (which itself isn't hard... just tedious).
This search for aftermarket wheels could be an opportunity for me to learn about coilovers, camber adjustment, etc., but I'm apprehensive about the cost and the time required. I don't really have a desire to lower the car – I'm happy avoiding scraping bumpers and the underside of the car when driving over potholes.
#5
Hootie, this is a brilliant response and extremely helpful. I ordered a set of Superspeed rf03rrs (15x7 + 36 offset) last night, but I have put the order on hold based on your recommendation. The price for the wheels is definitely right (<700 CAD for flow formed) and the light weight is definitely good (11.5 lbs/wheel) but the offset might be too aggressive for stock suspension based on what you're saying.
This search for aftermarket wheels could be an opportunity for me to learn about coilovers, camber adjustment, etc., but I'm apprehensive about the cost and the time required. I don't really have a desire to lower the car – I'm happy avoiding scraping bumpers and the underside of the car when driving over potholes.
This search for aftermarket wheels could be an opportunity for me to learn about coilovers, camber adjustment, etc., but I'm apprehensive about the cost and the time required. I don't really have a desire to lower the car – I'm happy avoiding scraping bumpers and the underside of the car when driving over potholes.
The factory rear camber spec for the GD is -1.5 degrees (technically -1 degree and 30 minutes per Honda's verbiage) +/- 1 additional degree so you'll likely be ok. If you want to steer more towards the -2.0 to -2.3 degrees then you might even be able to squeeze in the 205 (which has more tire choices as well).
#7
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