'08 Base MT, 113,000mi

Still working on the clunking, which I am beginning to think is engine or transmission mount. Sadly, the only one that I can actually spot seems to be 50820-SLN-003 (Rubber Assy, Engine Side Mounting), which is the right side, and that looks good. I'm thinking the culprit might be 50810-SLN-003 (Rubber, RR, Engine Isulator) or the 50840-SAA-003 (Stopper, FR) or 50805-SLN-A01 (Rubber Assy, Transmission Mounting). The last three I cannot see, but I understand that the last two are visible when you remove the airbox and battery tray (sigh). 50810-SLN-003 (Rubber, RR, Engine Isulator) does not appear to be visible at all--is this diagnoseable from the ground looking in, or do you need to be under the car while lifted?

I found this thread which includes a handful of exploded engine diagrams, but they're about the same as available on the Honda parts site:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...nspection.html

Anyone have actual photos or better diagrams explaining the process or where to inspect or see the mounts? The Haynes manual starts from undoing the bolts on the mounts, and seems to assume you're already in there, but as I don't even know where to approach getting to the mounts, I was hopping there might be better descriptions somewhere.

 

1) need to move the engine back and forth with engine off car in neutral, parking brake applied
2) with car on the lift (or 4 jack stands) first gear selected, move attempt to rotate driver side wheel and listen for the clunk

 

Thanks for the diagnosing tips.

Once diagnosed as the problem, what about getting to them? I understand the left one and the transmission mount are near each other after removing the battery and the air box. But the others seem to be hidden away. Are they best reached from underneath?

 

The rear mount can only be seen from underneath and is inaccessible without either undoing all the mounts and raising the engine a few inches, or by lowering the subframe. The rear mount is attached to the the middleish of the subframe and is encased in a metal bracket.

Every GD i have seen has had very badly torn transmission mount (Stopper,FR), so possibly it could be the culprit if it has never been changed. If so, you are lucky because it's the easiest and cheapest to do. Just need to take off the bumper to see/change it.

 

This is the thread I have used to do engine mounts. Sucks that most of the pics don't work anymore but its still useful
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ovative-3.html

 

Take off the bumper, really? Like the front bumper of the vehicle?

The exploded diagrams make it look like it's on the drivers side. Just to clarify, we're talking about 50840-SAA-003 (Stopper, FR) or Stopper, Front Engine (depending on the parts site Bernardi vs elsewhere)? The Rubber Assembly, Transmission Mounting (Mt) - Honda (50805-SLN-A01) appears to be the transmission mount. I think we're talking about the 50840-SAA-003 that tends to be the culprit.

 

Yep -003. Tried to look for a DIY so you have some visuals but cant find anything. When I did it last summer, i took the bumper off and peeled back the fender liner. MAYBE it's accessible if you remove the under tray and the front half of the finder liner. But removing the bumper would probably be easier.

I have also changed the -A01 Transmission mount last fall and it was tricky because its it's tight between the trans and the frame. With -003 its all in the open.
To change -003 torque mount:
-put front end on jackstands and fully turn the wheels to the left. Good to do just incase you feel it's tight for space, and you will need your jack to support the engine
-remove bumper (google search how to) and undo the front half of the fender liner (I also undid some of the undertray clips for more access)
-Use your jack with a block of wood on it to support the trans so it doesnt sag when you remove the mount. Once you see the engine lift a bit you're good (You can adjust it when you come to re-install)
-Loosen the two bolts and one nut first to make sure none are seized (make sure you can remove ALL the bolts before before you taking them out)
-If they are all good, remove bolts and mount. If one is stuck, soak in WD40 and try again
-Replace old with new. Start with the nut that goes through the rubber and hand tighten. See if the the bolts that attach to the chassis will line up. If not, raise or lower the jack supporting the trans slowly to get the holes to line up.
-Tighten the chassis bolts to secure the mounts in place (I don't know if there is a torque value, but don't over do it. And make sure to start tightening everything by hand so nothing gets cross threaded), then tighten the middle nut until it stops (when I did this, i didnt tighten this nut enough and it made a clunk because the mounting arm was banging against the metal sleeve in the mount)
-Done. Lower the supporting jack and put it all back together. (remember to take pictures of how things went together to help you reinstall, and keep track of plastic clips)

In all, This will probably take you 3-4 hours from start to finish..but give urself a day or two incase it's your only car (for me, one of the bolts snapped. So had to extract broken bolt and run to junk yard to grab another). Removing the bumper might be a two person job, having someone around to help incase you need it is always helpful.

 

Exactly the step-by-step I was needing. I was quite disappointed in the Haynes manual's skimpy description which basically amounts to: support the engine, remove the bolts, reinsert the bolts. sigh

 

Following up on this. It turned out to be the CV axle. Buddy and I had dislodged it when we were changing the struts and end links. We must have bent it. Took it to a local independent shop. $107 for parts, plus $80 labor, plus materials and tax. I don't think that's too bad, because I was looking at $59 for a mid-grade CV, and that could have not been the problem. He said mounts look good.