Hi there, I just changed my battery to a... can't remember, but a larger battery that fits without rubbing up against anything.

Since then, I've noticed what I thought was an occasional misfire. I bought a scanner and it said that all cylnders are firing as "passable."

One thing I noticed is that if I have the AC on, it seems a little more likely to happen. Also, in stress testing it, the headlights don't dim, but the interior light definitely flickers.

My partner thinks it occurs often when braking, which I didn't notice until yesterday when it was driving perfectly around town until I braked, and it really started shaking. Weird.

Could this be a battery thing? I've had the coil packs changed about 100,000km ago. Didn't ever change the plugs.

Has this happened to anyone before?

TIA!

 

The battery itself should not be the cause of this. However, when you replace the battery it is sometimes necessary to run the idle relearn procedure (though I didn't have to run it after disconnecting my battery):

ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure (5MT)


Make sure the battery terminal clamps are tight and clean. You shouldn't be able to move them with your hands. Otherwise, this issue is entirely unrelated to the new battery!

 

Then take it for a drive. You may need to do the valve adjustment to. It's time. There"s a YouTube video for it if you're feeling handy.

 

Thank you! Didn't know about that procedure. Makes sense though. Yeah, and I do doubt it's a problem of the battery. Seems like it's a valve adjustment issue

 

Thanks! Yeah I'll ask a mechanic or three how much they think it will cost. Looks kind of fun to DIY as well, but I'm always afraid of screwing it up.

 

Also - have you ever swapped out your coilpacks. they are notoriously bad on our cars.

 

Bad coil packs cause a studder sensation in the RPM, especially at idle.

 

Yup, coil packs were changed about 100k ago. I'm quite certain it's the valves, but it's been a lot smoother lately. Still can't believe how well this car runs given it's age and milage.

 

Yup, first thought it was a misfire due to bad coil packs. The original coil packs were swapped out 100k ago. Car runs a lot smoother now, so long as I don't crank the heat. I'll do valve adjustment soon...

 

Cranking the heat should have practically zero impact on the engine speed/load. I suspect you've got your selector set to defog, which kicks on the ac compressor.

 

Yep your due for a "full" tuneup,
The GD NEEDS the valves adjusted every 60 to 80 K Miles. Its a solid valve train engine..
The plugs should be changed about the same
Coil Packs too buy Hitachi from Rock auto they are fine.

The exhaust ports are right next to the hole the plugs go in the hot exhaust
bakes the bottoms of the coil packs. I had the head off mine once you see that way,,
it makes sense..

Make sure all the ground cables are in good shape, the power the AC clutch and
radiator fans draw will cause odd things to happen.

 

It is from the great honda coil packs. Actually it is noting wrong with the packs. You need to clean them and add some dielectric grease. It will take about 2 hours labor and $10 for grease. Search in the forum there is very good thread I read 5 years ago and no issue after it.