I finally got my hands on a fit! cleanup, and suspension refresh
#41
If you haven't already replaced your engine mount, an in expensive solution and mild upgrade is 3M window weld. I did mine this past march and it's doing really well, especially since I didn't even take it out of the car or clean it or anything. If you take the time to clean it and everything I'm sure you'll be pleased and it will last a long time. P.s. did that cdv delete make a noticeable difference in shifting?
#42
Oh hey y’all. It’s been a while since I’ve logged in. I’ve only put a few hundred miles on the car but It’s been good. I’ve done some more work but I lost the photos
i actually did end up using urethane the forward trans/motor mount. But I have not been able to discern a difference.
i do think the CDV delete was an improvement, I found it easier to “feel” the clutch thru the pedal afterwards. it’s a cheap an easy mod too. A good excuse to flush and bleed the clutch lines as well.
my car is actually up on jack stands right now, new exhaust mani, cat, stainless mid pipe. Ran into some issues with the car fitment (hits swaybar) but it should be back in the road next week...just in time for the snow.. So I also got my roof rack and ski box setup...curious to see how it goes in the snow...
i actually did end up using urethane the forward trans/motor mount. But I have not been able to discern a difference.
i do think the CDV delete was an improvement, I found it easier to “feel” the clutch thru the pedal afterwards. it’s a cheap an easy mod too. A good excuse to flush and bleed the clutch lines as well.
my car is actually up on jack stands right now, new exhaust mani, cat, stainless mid pipe. Ran into some issues with the car fitment (hits swaybar) but it should be back in the road next week...just in time for the snow.. So I also got my roof rack and ski box setup...curious to see how it goes in the snow...
#45
been a while again...but I’ve been ordering n some new parts for the fit.... New wheels - Konig helium’s - and AVS window and hood visors came in today. I have some stuff coming to tackle a few rust repairs, shifter bushings. Got a few more things in store for the suspension but they will come later.
wheel pics for eye candy (and check out that glaring rust spot....)
wheel pics for eye candy (and check out that glaring rust spot....)
#48
I realized I forgot to buy TPS valve stems so I still don’t have the wheels and tires mounted...
but today I installed some shifter bushings from Torque Solutions - here’s a few pics
packaging (there are no instructions)
what’s inside
everything I removed to have room for the install
Opened up
the cable ends and cotterpins that need to be removed
Here’s everything installed (I used the metal washers)
I had to modify the rear/smaller bushing in order to be able to fit a washer and retention clip. Probably removed a mm off the top and bottom
a few thoughts: pretty easy install, easier than I expected based on some write-ups online - and in a write up on this forum someone said to discard the metal top washers, and just use the flimsy plastic friction discs as a washer.... that seemed downright wrong so I am using the metal ones over the bushings.
that required that the rear/smaller busing had to be thinned down a mm or two so I could get both a washer and retention pin on it... kind of a drag to have to remove and modify a brand new part. But it’s all together now.
haven’t been on a proper drive yet, but once o take it on a spirited I’ve I’ll report back
but today I installed some shifter bushings from Torque Solutions - here’s a few pics
packaging (there are no instructions)
what’s inside
everything I removed to have room for the install
Opened up
the cable ends and cotterpins that need to be removed
Here’s everything installed (I used the metal washers)
I had to modify the rear/smaller bushing in order to be able to fit a washer and retention clip. Probably removed a mm off the top and bottom
a few thoughts: pretty easy install, easier than I expected based on some write-ups online - and in a write up on this forum someone said to discard the metal top washers, and just use the flimsy plastic friction discs as a washer.... that seemed downright wrong so I am using the metal ones over the bushings.
that required that the rear/smaller busing had to be thinned down a mm or two so I could get both a washer and retention pin on it... kind of a drag to have to remove and modify a brand new part. But it’s all together now.
haven’t been on a proper drive yet, but once o take it on a spirited I’ve I’ll report back
#49
and a quick pic of how it sits rn, finally removed my roof rack and ski carrier... should look a bit different with those wheels, AVS visors all around, and a good wash and wax. Been more than 8 months since it was washed.....
#52
lol yeah, it gave me a laugh too...kind of a silly slogan
I honestly forgot about the part at first and hadn’t really noticed the difference in driving feel - but once I was paying attention it was obvious that the shifts felt more precise and direct subtle but noticeable - my 1st to 2nd shifts definitely feel better.
I honestly forgot about the part at first and hadn’t really noticed the difference in driving feel - but once I was paying attention it was obvious that the shifts felt more precise and direct subtle but noticeable - my 1st to 2nd shifts definitely feel better.
Last edited by NEGD3; 06-28-2020 at 10:07 AM.
#53
wheels and tires mounted! Looks real nice I think, although it brings out how shabby the state of the bodywork is in...
I also installed a Curt trailer hutch and wiring harness (for my boat) and I made a custom “4th brake light” that I’ll have to get photos of
didnt want to run my trailer wore thru the hatch so I got it stuffed thru the cabin vents
I also installed a Curt trailer hutch and wiring harness (for my boat) and I made a custom “4th brake light” that I’ll have to get photos of
didnt want to run my trailer wore thru the hatch so I got it stuffed thru the cabin vents
#57
thanks man - your SSM is super clean too!
It’s on Godspeed lowering springs, but i cut the rears to get the back lower ..so it’s admittedly kind of a janky setup right now.
however I do have some new rear springs coming from Eibach though, I think they got delivered to my house yesterday - so I should have it sitting a lil better next week
It’s on Godspeed lowering springs, but i cut the rears to get the back lower ..so it’s admittedly kind of a janky setup right now.
however I do have some new rear springs coming from Eibach though, I think they got delivered to my house yesterday - so I should have it sitting a lil better next week
#58
got the Eibachs in! They are 10” 250lb springs.
part number for the curious
fit up into the stock spring bushes
a comparison of the hack shit I had in there before ....for shame... much better now though.
I also went ahead and did the IK22 plug swap (and changed my oil) ... driving impressions to come.
RSB and some more new suspension parts next.... I need a new muffler too.
part number for the curious
fit up into the stock spring bushes
a comparison of the hack shit I had in there before ....for shame... much better now though.
I also went ahead and did the IK22 plug swap (and changed my oil) ... driving impressions to come.
RSB and some more new suspension parts next.... I need a new muffler too.
#60
well it took a bit of thinking, and yea I could have just bought another full set of lowering springs... but I just wanted to lower the rear a little bit more, without having to tear down the front struts again..
so I took the godspeed and stock springs and measured them (inside and outside diameters + length), got the spring rates, and after cutting the godspeeds and double checking. I eventually figured out that I wanted that 10” 250lb spring size for a nice even ride height.
so I took the godspeed and stock springs and measured them (inside and outside diameters + length), got the spring rates, and after cutting the godspeeds and double checking. I eventually figured out that I wanted that 10” 250lb spring size for a nice even ride height.